RCCrawler Forums

phunkodelic · 08-02-2009, 12:25 PM

Looking to build a scale rig and don't want to see pins coming though the body to hold it on. What seems to work the best and where can I get the materials on the net? I was thinking of industrial grade Velcro but I need to make the parts the Velcro sticks too so the body can be used in conjunction with the current axial scx10 body mount posts since my build will be an axial scx10.

friscokidd · 08-03-2009, 10:57 AM

velcro

benoj · 08-03-2009, 02:45 PM

i have used high strength velcro on a scaler on mine and it was good for lexan bodies but it just didnt hold up well to my clod body, also ive used high strength magnets. but gave up and did side screw mounts

pardonmyn00b · 08-03-2009, 03:09 PM

Industrial strength Velcro works for me. Haven't lost my hardbody yet.

microgoat · 08-03-2009, 03:13 PM

Velcro sucks. I always get a touch penalty after a rollover so I can put the damn cab back on. Never again will I use Velcro.

Button-head screws can be hidden fairly easily, but this is my favorite body mounting:

No screws, no clips, no velcro. The body fits the cage so tight that it clicks into place and won't come off accidentally.

DonsATV · 08-03-2009, 05:09 PM

I used to use this on my RC cars 20yrs ago, will hold 4lbs per square inch.

pantablo · 08-03-2009, 05:52 PM

I use inverted body posts.

The Hilux front mount was done this way and its the way I do all my other rigs (front and back). the hilux rear is a little different in that its only a slip fit onto horizontally mounted body posts.

I take two body posts and screw them to a peice of alum angle. Then I mount another peice of alum angle to the chassis with two holes for the body posts to go through. Then I slip the upper part (that goes on underside of body) and slip in on the chassis mounts. then goop a bunch of Shoe Goo on the upper alum angle. then slip the body on. then push up the upper mount till it contacts the underside of the body. this is flawless in getting the upper mount in the correct position.
then I trim the length of the body posts so I have only a couple holes showing past the chassis mounting plate.

edit:btw, this is VERY strong. I've rolled quite a bit on many of my rigs, some hard enough to break the body and the mounts dont give at all.

edit 2: depending on the body, some of the New Bright bodies come with mounting points for where their body is mounted to their chassis. Sometimes I like to use them also and screw directly through chassis into those body mounts.
I did this sort of thing on my cc01 rigs

Big Mike · 08-04-2009, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by microgoat

Velcro sucks. I always get a touch penalty after a rollover so I can put the damn cab back on. Never again will I use Velcro.

Button-head screws can be hidden fairly easily, but this is my favorite body mounting:

No screws, no clips, no velcro. The body fits the cage so tight that it clicks into place and won't come off accidentally.

Now that is a sweet solution. No posts sticking through to ruin the look, no clips to drop and lose, no velcro to fail in a rollover, or NOT fail in a rollover and pull the paint back off a lexan body instead.

Great looking truck BTW.

70duncan · 08-05-2009, 11:08 AM

I have tried the velcro thing, and it wasn't for me. The body kept comming loose after a role over or getting hung up on the rocks. I ended up using body posts and clips, but put them were my cage and bumpers would hide them. Now the body stays put

.

themexxxican · 08-06-2009, 07:36 AM

Industrial strength velcro has been workin for me so far. The body on my rig has not come off yet.

rcjunky3 · 08-09-2009, 05:04 PM

great idea pantablo on hardbodys but what about use of a lexan body. in time velcro will peel the paint right off of lexan

pantablo · 08-09-2009, 05:33 PM

I dont generally do lexan bodies but if I did I would try to conceal the body mounting using body posts behind or integrated into bumpers, sliders and such.
The one lexan body I have has so much styrene attached to it as to not count, lol.

rcjunky3 · 08-09-2009, 10:30 PM

thanks again for the idea on the hard plastic i will use this when i get my jk together

mrklaw · 08-10-2009, 02:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcjunky3

great idea pantablo on hardbodys but what about use of a lexan body. in time velcro will peel the paint right off of lexan

body post coming up through a roofrack, then covered over with a scale box (cooler, toolbox etc)?

would two central bodyposts be enough for a crawler? If not, you could build a lip onto the front/back which clips over somethign on the chassis that you've built

LIKES2CRAWL · 08-15-2009, 12:11 PM

I agree that body posts on a scaler looky tacky.

I realy like this method, with little more modding you could do a couple on lower cab 1 front 1 rear. This is not my rig but will be how mine is done.

08-02-2009, 12:25 PM	#1
phunkodelic Newbie Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Raleigh Posts: 46	Options to mount bodies? Looking to build a scale rig and don't want to see pins coming though the body to hold it on. What seems to work the best and where can I get the materials on the net? I was thinking of industrial grade Velcro but I need to make the parts the Velcro sticks too so the body can be used in conjunction with the current axial scx10 body mount posts since my build will be an axial scx10.

08-03-2009, 05:52 PM	#7
pantablo I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: santa monica Posts: 3,687	I use inverted body posts. The Hilux front mount was done this way and its the way I do all my other rigs (front and back). the hilux rear is a little different in that its only a slip fit onto horizontally mounted body posts. I take two body posts and screw them to a peice of alum angle. Then I mount another peice of alum angle to the chassis with two holes for the body posts to go through. Then I slip the upper part (that goes on underside of body) and slip in on the chassis mounts. then goop a bunch of Shoe Goo on the upper alum angle. then slip the body on. then push up the upper mount till it contacts the underside of the body. this is flawless in getting the upper mount in the correct position. then I trim the length of the body posts so I have only a couple holes showing past the chassis mounting plate. edit:btw, this is VERY strong. I've rolled quite a bit on many of my rigs, some hard enough to break the body and the mounts dont give at all. edit 2: depending on the body, some of the New Bright bodies come with mounting points for where their body is mounted to their chassis. Sometimes I like to use them also and screw directly through chassis into those body mounts. I did this sort of thing on my cc01 rigs Last edited by pantablo; 08-03-2009 at 05:54 PM.

08-06-2009, 07:36 AM	#10
themexxxican Newbie Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Oak Cliff Posts: 18	Body Mounts Industrial strength velcro has been workin for me so far. The body on my rig has not come off yet.

08-03-2009, 10:57 AM	#2
friscokidd Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: i think its called houston Posts: 224	velcro

08-03-2009, 02:45 PM	#3
benoj I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Madrid, IA Posts: 2,015	i have used high strength velcro on a scaler on mine and it was good for lexan bodies but it just didnt hold up well to my clod body, also ive used high strength magnets. but gave up and did side screw mounts

08-03-2009, 03:09 PM	#4
pardonmyn00b I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Unnecessary Surgery Land Posts: 3,406	Industrial strength Velcro works for me. Haven't lost my hardbody yet.

08-03-2009, 03:13 PM	#5
microgoat I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 8,009	Velcro sucks. I always get a touch penalty after a rollover so I can put the damn cab back on. Never again will I use Velcro. Button-head screws can be hidden fairly easily, but this is my favorite body mounting: No screws, no clips, no velcro. The body fits the cage so tight that it clicks into place and won't come off accidentally.

08-03-2009, 05:09 PM	#6
DonsATV RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: United States of the Offended Posts: 1,184	I used to use this on my RC cars 20yrs ago, will hold 4lbs per square inch.

08-05-2009, 11:08 AM	#9
70duncan I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Stuck on a Rig in the middle of nowhere Utah. Posts: 2,024	I have tried the velcro thing, and it wasn't for me. The body kept comming loose after a role over or getting hung up on the rocks. I ended up using body posts and clips, but put them were my cage and bumpers would hide them. Now the body stays put .

08-09-2009, 05:04 PM	#11
rcjunky3 RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: barstow Posts: 1,303	great idea pantablo on hardbodys but what about use of a lexan body. in time velcro will peel the paint right off of lexan

08-09-2009, 05:33 PM	#12
pantablo I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: santa monica Posts: 3,687	I dont generally do lexan bodies but if I did I would try to conceal the body mounting using body posts behind or integrated into bumpers, sliders and such. The one lexan body I have has so much styrene attached to it as to not count, lol.

08-09-2009, 10:30 PM	#13
rcjunky3 RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: barstow Posts: 1,303	thanks again for the idea on the hard plastic i will use this when i get my jk together

08-15-2009, 12:11 PM	#15
LIKES2CRAWL I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: KENNEWICK, WA Posts: 2,513	I agree that body posts on a scaler looky tacky. I realy like this method, with little more modding you could do a couple on lower cab 1 front 1 rear. This is not my rig but will be how mine is done.

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