Beef in Yer Rear! to Tube? or NOT to Tube?

[Big Tex]

so ive been debating on this subject a while and i want some other opinions on it, how many of you guys run beef tubes in the rear on your scx/wraith based rigs, and why?

i decided to beef front and rear because i liked the idea of my chubs and lockouts bolting into the tubes and forming a "one-piece" solid axle so to speak, and of course weight down low, but now im thinking do i need it? is it hurting me? is it helping me? on the trail? on the rocks? speak up guys!

[johnnyh66]

I think the weight down low is the biggest advantage for the rear axle...
but ya never know, it cold save ya in a roll over.

[Meatwad]

Cracked a rear axle in the past. So yep, beef tubes in the rear axle for me.

[Big Tex]

i think for me it helps me stick when i side hill and also when im making a steep climb,
but it could be more the OD/UD and C.I. foams but it makes me feel better that its helping lol

[doublej]

I think it's one of the things that depends on the rest of the rigs weight placement.
I like a heavier axle set but in the wrong rig a rear axle that's too heavy is going to make it want to back flip on steep climbs.
How hard would it be to pull them out on a day run to try the rig without it.

[Big Tex]

well prying off the lockouts is no fun task, and all my weight is up front basically, and saddle pack lipos on my r2j g6 sliders so its biased well IMO

[TacoCrawler]

I roll BT's front and rear...

I also purchased alloy C-hubs, knuckles and lockouts
and wanted those secured better then with screws
threaded into plastic threads.

I think the BT's (Ft/Rr) are a must do improvement if yer serious
about keeping the rubber side down...
and making the axle's stronger.

'bout the only drawback...

the plastic axle housing gets chewed to hell in the rocks.
and that requires replacing the housing from time to time.

Not difficult by any means...
but one will need break out the dremel,
each/every time a new axle housing is installed.

I regret not using new axle housings during the original install of the BT's
'cuz I already need to change those out

My opinion is... just do it !

[bigstu]

I watched two guys, on the same day, split open wraith axle housings (one at the shock mount on the long side tube, and one at the pumpkin) on a jump at a scaler event.
Both rear housings.

I did the same jump, same exact set up, only difference, I had beef tubes front and rear..
My truck lived. That right there was enough for me to say yes, front and rear is a good thing..

[Duxx]

Front and rear, strength and weight. But if you don't install a bec also then the beef tubes are pointless...

[Jeff@TireBalls]

What brand's seem to work best?

[ROLANDROCKSHOP]

steel toobs upfront delrin in the rear..

[Big Tex]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

I roll BT's front and rear...

I also purchased alloy C-hubs, knuckles and lockouts
and wanted those secured better then with screws
threaded into plastic threads.

I think the BT's (Ft/Rr) are a must do improvement if yer serious
about keeping the rubber side down...
and making the axle's stronger.

'bout the only drawback...

the plastic axle housing gets chewed to hell in the rocks.
and that requires replacing the housing from time to time.

Not difficult by any means...
but one will need break out the dremel,
each/every time a new axle housing is installed.

I regret not using new axle housings during the original install of the BT's
'cuz I already need to change those out

My opinion is... just do it !

Originally Posted by bigstu

I watched two guys, on the same day, split open wraith axle housings (one at the shock mount on the long side tube, and one at the pumpkin) on a jump at a scaler event.
Both rear housings.

I did the same jump, same exact set up, only difference, I had beef tubes front and rear..
My truck lived. That right there was enough for me to say yes, front and rear is a good thing..

Originally Posted by Duxx

Front and rear, strength and weight. But if you don't install a bec also then the beef tubes are pointless...

lol at this ^^

good points guys, anyone see a difference with dirt hilling, mud or snow? or are we all just WOT everything? lol cuz i do

Originally Posted by ROLANDROCKSHOP

steel toobs upfront delrin in the rear..

Uh-Ohh Wild card!

Originally Posted by Jeff@TireBalls

What brand's seem to work best?

A1 steak sauce has a nice set of tubes available,

all jokes aside, biggin69 is the beeftube king IMO best pricing, good clean machining, fast shipping great communication etc cant beat em

[Jeff@TireBalls]

Thanks! Who makes the delrin rears?

[Big Tex]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TireBalls

Thanks! Who makes the delrin rears?

heres the link, and delrin tubes?! im a man! i have no such knowledge!

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axles...e-updated.html

[hotwheels000]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TireBalls

Thanks! Who makes the delrin rears?

Creation fab,aka chris the battery man

[Meatwad]

Creationfab splined tubes for the xr mod are also nice. Regular beef tubes work but the axle plastic eventually gets gnawed up, for me it did anyway.

[STANG KILLA SS]

top 10 best thread title

[TacoCrawler]

I prefer the added weight of the steel beef tubes.
I also prefer that the C-hub securing screws
thread into steel rather then plastic.
Tho' Delrin is stronger then most plastics...
I still prefer the tapped steel threads...
Should last longer if removed and reassembled repeatedly.

I have the biggin69 "standard beef tubes"
Other designs may create a wider axle.
And I personally did not want that.

Only issue was...

if using the stock axle shafts... those can have interference
with the ID of the inner ends of the beef tubes (locker side).
That interference will not allow the axle shaft the ability to seat properly
and can cause bind with the axle shaft.

I used the stock axle shafts in the rear.
I had to chamfer the ID of the inner end of the BT's.
Reason being... the stock axle shaft has a inner shoulder that is a bit large in diameter.
Suppose you could grind the axle shaft's shoulder down..
but it could weaken the axle shaft some.

It's really simple to do.
The BT's are the correct over-all length...
so that shouldn't be altered.
It's just the ID at the inner end of the BT's.
It only needs be chamfered a little to clear.
Just don't chamfer the angle so much that it shortens
the over-all length of the BT.

I used Axial universal shafts up front...
and those fit fine without chamfering the ID of the inner end of the BT's.
reason being... a much smaller shoulder on the axle shafts inner side.
But if using the stock axle shafts up front...
they will need chamfering.

I chamfered all four tubes...
so that they will work in either axle housing...
regardless of which axle shaft is being used.

^ and so I can't confuse which BT goes into which axle housing
if I might break down both axles at the same time.

[Big Tex]

Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS

top 10 best thread title

I really thought about to lube or not to lube lmfao

[biggin69]

Just stumbled upon this thread. Thank you to all of my satisfied Beef Tube Customers!