Shapeways narrowed scx axle~

[LoneRanger]

is anyone running there housings?

narrow SCX10 axle case by hoffy on Shapeways

if so can you post a picture? would like to see how they compare to a stock housing.

thanks~

L.R.

[hoffy]

Hello L.R.

I am currently on the best way to fit the axles to my SCX Chassis. Unfortunately I was sick for several weeks and had no progress on the axles. Hopefully in October I will do the first ride test.

Up to now the first rear drive shaft is shortened and everything move smooth right now. Hopefully I can finish the rear axle soon and can start with shorten the front CVD's.

regards

Hoffy

[LoneRanger]

Hoffy, I would love to pictures of your progress.

thanks!

L.R.

[hoffy]

Hello L.R. and all other

within the last days I did some Progress on the axles. It's nearly unbelievable but I finished to shorten the axle shafts and CVD'S.

To remember, I am using the short Wraith axle shaft and CVD from GPM on both sides. To shorten those are pretty easy. For the rear, I cut the ends after the ring and redo the flat spots.


©hoffy


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Finishes rear axle:

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©hoffy

Unfortunately I toke no pictures from shorten the CVD. I was a bit in hurry and forget to take the pictures to get some more progress. But the CVD’s are as easy as to shorten the rear axle shafts. Cut about 6 respectively 9mm at the flat area and extend those by 6 respectively 9mm. That’s all to fit to the diff.


©hoffy

Throw the front axle into the SCX chassis

©hoffy

With some 90mm wheels...

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Axle with wheels from underneath:

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Steering angle:

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The Ackermann doesn’t look correct, or am I wrong?

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©hoffy

The wheels looks a bit to wide for me, but the diameter seems to fit. What do you think?

Certainly the front axle does not fit as it should. Minor problems needs to be solved now…

- correct steering / Ackermann, not realy shure how, but have already an idea.
- Wheels are touching the damper/springs at full steering
- Wheels are touching body at full steering and full twist, locks as I need some smaller wheels that fit better. If this is not enough, smaller damper needs to be mounted.

May be I can throw the rear axle today into the SCX chassis. Don’t expect any big problems doing this.

Sheers

Hoffy

[Kylar]

Excellent work! very cool

[LoneRanger]

Hoffy, thanks so much for sharing your pictures with us! Those axles look GREAT under there-
I agree with you:
for a more scale look the tires need to be narrowed just a bit.

If the tires are rubbing you can adjust the steering throw with the EPA on your radio. (end point adjustment) That will limit how far the tire actually turn and should help keep the tires out of the fenders. The other way to do it is by slightly cutting or trimming your fenders and or bumpers to get the tires to clear.
Ackerman, isnt horrible- but be serious, these are little RC cars! Would you know for sure if it was perfect? just drive it and have fun!

keep the pics comming! (How would you rate the axle housings over all?)

again thanks so much for for posting here!

L.R.

[RaleighRCer]

Looks awesome to me!

[hoffy]

Thanks for the acknowledge.

@L.R.
narrow this typ of wheels, does not look good at the wheel tread. My goal is NO cutting or grinding at the body. For that reason, I will order some new wheels that are a bit smaler. I will see how worse the rubbing is really at a first test run and decide afterwars the measures that need to be taken. Thanks for the advices!


Yesterday evening I did some more progress...

The G55 is back again a roller... The rear axle is in place. As expected, not a big deal. Additionally I installed the tranny and the drive shafts, some old Traxxas parts that lay around for some years. The plan is to replace the tranny with the printed one as soon as it gets to me.

The pictures are not the best, but should be good enough for the moment.


©hoffy


©hoffy

The wheels are under the fenders as it shoould be...

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With the shown wheels the front axle is exactly 200mm wide and the rear about 195mm. It looks like the combination of different Axial and aftermarked parts are the cause of this. I will check in detail why this happens in the next days...

Stay tuned

hoffy

[LoneRanger]

Keep the updates coming!!!!

L.R.

[hoffy]

Just a short update:

The G is running again...

First testrun with printed narrow SCX axles

And for an SCX it runs real quiet.

Cheers Hoffy

[TacoCrawler]

luv the scale action and fitment of those printed axle housings...

tho' need they be printed in white ?

the white ruins it for me

[hoffy]

@TacoCrawler

Thx dude, the white axles can and will ne painted black for sure. It's the same effect than have printed it in black from beginning. Because, even the black printed parts are at least printed in white and get a last black layer. So any rework or scratch will be visible in white.

Cheers

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by hoffy

@TacoCrawler

Thx dude, the white axles can and will ne painted black for sure. It's the same effect than have printed it in black from beginning. Because, even the black printed parts are at least printed in white and get a last black layer. So any rework or scratch will be visible in white.

Cheers

a painted axle will look like crap after the first battery run thru it

I wonder how much nylon is used ?
possibly it is dye capable if the nylon content is superior ?

curious as why it's not simply printed in black fully ? Cost ?
hmmm...
it already costs the consumer near 5X's the original !?

guess I'm curious...
but not enough so, that I make inquiry with the mfg'r.

I just find it odd...
that the point of these is to be more accurate to a scale width/look...
but then... it's printed in white

Guess I'll just hafta' stick to using the $12. originals.

[lonleycreeper]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

a painted axle will look like crap after the first battery run thru it

I wonder how much nylon is used ?
possibly it is dye capable if the nylon content is superior ?

curious as why it's not simply printed in black fully ? Cost ?
hmmm...
it already costs the consumer near 5X's the original !?

guess I'm curious...
but not enough so, that I make inquiry with the mfg'r.

I just find it odd...
that the point of these is to be more accurate to a scale width/look...
but then... it's printed in white

Guess I'll just hafta' stick to using the $12. originals.

If i recall properly, we used to dye white nylon in my old rc10 days rit dye was used successfully.

[Dad,Canyoufix?]

Wraith housings next?

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

If i recall properly, we used to dye white nylon in my old rc10 days rit dye was used successfully.

yep... that's how I learned that boiling yer tire/wheel
will release/dissolve the CA glue securing the tire's bead to the wheels.

and if any CA glue ever touches the nylon/plastic wheel before dying...
that particular area will not dye properly, even if cleaned of residue.
Generally the wheels would be dyed before tire gluing.

I used to compete with some guys who thought hot pink was all the rage !?

[LoneRanger]

I agree witht he above- you should have no problem dying the axles black.

any more updates Hoffy?


L.R.

[89redranger]

I have a pile of Shapeways parts here right now, and have come to love the nylon they use. Unfortunately, as Hoffy has said, even the black is only surface dyed, not printed in true black. I've had VERY good luck using Testors spray paint and primer on these parts, as well as cheap Wal-Mart $0.98/can Color Place Enamels. Lay the first coat heavy, let the pores in the printed surface suck the paint up (it will, and like a sponge), then start laying solid color coats. In all reality, the way that Shapeways "strong and flexible" is printed, the nylon becomes very porous. Those pores really pull the paint into the surface of the parts. No matter the paint, it ends up MUCH tougher than regular painted parts.

These parts can also be colored with a Sharpie (comes on, lets see some Sharpie art on some axles), dyed, or simply sealed with a coat of clear. For anybody wanting to keep their white parts white...never touch them with bare hands (grit and grease stains the porous nylon VERY easily), wash them with hot soapy water to get rid of excess plastic powder, mask anything you need to, heat a can of clear in warm water, and then spray them clear. The hotter the paint, the thinner it is, and the better it lays out and pulls into the pores.

[89redranger]

Here are a few quick pics for you guys. These are Shapeways printed parts, designed and sold through Dravpnir for MRCs. Painted front link plate with a SOLID primer coat, and 3 coats of Color Place black. The others were colored with Sharpie, but will end up painted. They end up with an almost "cast" finish.

[Hulldiver]

Not for sale on Shapeways anymore!? 2 bucks is better than no bucks.