WC,
you could use a double pole single throw (DPST) switch. Poles 1 and 3 could be used to turn on the Monster, poles 2 and 4 could be used to turn on the Sidewinder. Since the left and right side poles are isolated from eachother you would have no worries.
"thumbsup"

Thanks, I was thinking that but didn't want to run to the hardware store.

well, I went ahead and wired them both to a relay that powers up with the BEC.

So far its working sweet."thumbsup"

WC

John I have a Berg and I will be running two of your Cobalt 7T pullers. I have a Tekin FX R ESC with a CC BEC to run as well. I was wondering if I need to add another FX R to run the two motors. Also would I need a second CC BEC and also how do you wire up two FX Rs?

No plans right now, but I may order up a few for the store soon. They are a good little ESC

No problem

Not right now. I just don't have the time to sit down and bang out winches anymore. Don't know of anybody that makes them either

I will look around for another cell. Not sure if I have any more, I used them all for my electric bike.

I would suggest another FXR, depending on the voltage you run. 2 cell lipo, you would probably be fine. 3 cell lipo, no way. One BEC is fine.

As for wiring it up, if you don't have a fancy radio just use a Y harness for power and the radio signal. If you have a fancy radio give the second ESC it's own channel so you can have full control.

JRH

I discovered a design flaw in the Scorpion 3032-08.

Some how the armature broke free of the base and that allowed the windings to be cut by the sharp corners of the aluminum as the armature rotated back and fourth.

I am really bummed out about this man. Pretty sure the A123 vented because the motor was shorting out!! Just glad the Monster held its ground.

I tore the entire motor down to the basics.
Bearings are still in perfect shape! That was the problem last time.
Magnets are all still attached and looking good.

But the armature spins freely on the base. (where the bearing are housed)

So what I did is burn the wire casing off the input leads all the way to the base and try to solder all of the wires back on. I believe I got all but one that was too far in to get to.

Put the motor all together and fired it up and it works well but I'm not sure the solder is going to last long with the kinda amps I pump into it.
As for the spinning base, I gorilla super glued the hell out of it and could not get it to break free by hand again.


I know Innov8tive sells kits. Is it possible to get just the armature and base? Can they be separate? I can wind it myself if need be.

Or should I just get a new motor and rework it so it lasts?

...Or should I be discussing this with lucien miller?

I would like to be able to:
1.) Knock down the sharp corners inside the base where the wires got cut.
2.) Apply epoxy to the base to hold everything from spinning and nuking it again.

This is what happens when you put an airplane motor in a beat around the rocks tuff truck. But its a problem that CAN be solved.


Thanks for your help man! "thumbsup"
WC

You pretty much have it figured out. You may try pinning or keying the armature onto the base. If you want a kit, just hit up Luciens site.


A better way of attaching the stator is loctite. 454 is one adhesive type I believe.

JRH,

I have 2 of the 45t 540 handwounds and I have some crazy glitching associated with them. When I swap in a crapola motor it's fine.

I tried removing the onboard caps and replaced with Novak caps and it got a lot better (like 95% better) but it will still do it.

Any suggestions?


My setup is an FM radio, Novak xxtra, sidewinder and castle BEC....

i saw that one, but it says everything exept the mamba max..

Right right, the mamba max just plugs in via usb. It comes with the usb cable. I didn't read carefully enough.

so to clarify, it will work with the MM....its just a typo in the ad?

JohnRob,

I know you have broken your fair share of stuff when testing.
here is my dilemma,

I'm building one of the tonka winnebagos.
it weighs about 10 pounds. with chassis and axles figure 13lbs
instead of finishing out the interior with details, I'm going to make it a mobile pit box, tools and spare parts, I'm guessing about 10 lbs worth, so that will be 23lbs.

of course I will be putting a trailer behind it long enough to carry two rigs, figure another 7lbs, 30 so far

can't forget the two rigs on it, and I tend to build stout so figure another 17lbs there

now, to move a 25lb motorhome, towing another 30lbs over not necessarily even ground is going to be a stretch for a lot of axles, especially when you consider trying to stay in the 8 inch width of the motorhome.

I have a set of highlift axles, which are a little wide but potentially doable,
I also have a set of wheely king axles, and I'm not afraid to narrow them, I double narrowed a set for my lunchbox build.

do you have any suggestions for motivating almost 50 lbs worth of RC goodness? or should I go bother rc4wd instead? :lol:

main reason I'm asking is because I know you columbia guys have a sled.

It actually won't work. The MM just needs a usb cable, not the castle link interface dealy.

No real suggestions on further fixes besides moving the radio equipment. My best guess to the cause is that you are drawing more amperage, thus causing more interference. If you add a few degrees of forward timing to the motors it can help a bit too.


I would suggest a ton of reduction first. At least 80:1 if not a bit more. Then get either a hot brushed motor or brushless motor. Outrunner or inrunner, not too big if a deal. Once you get the motor turning it won't stop as long as you keep on the throttle. I would suggest the Wheely king axles over the highlift- better ring and pinion. Very cool project, a toolbox RC is a great idea.

where do i get a USB cable to program my MM? sorry, i have no experience with this:lol: im ready to place my order...

...

forgot to mention i got the MM used and i dont have a usb cable. will any usb cable from a pc store work?

It needs to be a mini USB on the MM side, just bring the MM in to the store.

Is there a "540 motor timing for dummies" somewhere? :ror:

Rotate the endbell for positive timing and the motor will spin faster, rotate it for negative timing and it spins slower (not good for the brushes). It is the relation of the brushes to the magnets. I can't tell you which way is which because there is no standard forward for crawlers.

You only want a few degrees of timing, just a few MM of can rotation.

Here comes stupid question #2.... :ror:

Rotate it how? I must be missing something. There are 2 set screws & no other holes available ... do I need to drill new holes for the screws or do I just manhandle the whole thing and the metal ring the screws go into will rotate?


As far as timing advance/retard...

Looking at the motor from the top, lets say that under forward power it rotates clockwise. Does that mean that rotating the endbell a hair clockwise would be advancing or retarding the timing?