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Thread: how to get more traction from stock wk tires?

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Old 01-13-2008, 08:22 AM   #1
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Post how to get more traction from stock wk tires?

ive just gotton into rc rock crawling ive taken the rod brace or sway bar off the back mounts it gave me more travel but now i need to reverse my frame and get more traction someone please help me. ive herad of using bbs to get wiegh in front but how many? and how much weight will it add

Last edited by crawler king 17; 01-13-2008 at 08:29 AM. Reason: no reason
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Old 01-13-2008, 09:12 AM   #2
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flip the chassis, moves the battery to the front, reverse the front wheels so they are backwards, and add weight, extend the chassis and lower it just a bit,
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Old 01-13-2008, 09:30 AM   #3
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new tires maybe?
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Old 01-13-2008, 10:50 AM   #4
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if you want too use the stock tires but get more performance out of them.. cut/ groove them, add wheel weights.. i used fender washers and maded them look like bead locks. they wrok very well..great cheao mod..
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Old 01-13-2008, 12:15 PM   #5
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Lock the diffs first, groove tires and run them backward (or best : upgrade if you can afford) extend WB, move battery upfront and you'll be up to a good start
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Old 01-13-2008, 12:20 PM   #6
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i know that much my bdays coming up in a week so im buying the extension for rock crawling and some diff lockers from strc dot com ive only had it for a week and wanna hop it up lol i dont under stand how to flip that frame i get the idea but i dont know how some pictures step by step would really help
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Old 01-14-2008, 12:25 PM   #7
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Default Mud Thrashers

I spent over 10 hours working on my stock WK tires.

Cutting them is critical. Remove the line down the center of the tire formed where the left and right lugs meet and cut the lugs where they wrap down the sidewall of the tire. This will allow the tire to flex. Additional cutting can't hurt.

Finally, make the air hole on the inside of the wheels larger. Stock it's about 1/16" diameter. I made mine about 3/8" dia. This allows the air to escape very quickly and allows the tire to wrap around rocks instead of bounce off.

Add weight. I put standard stick on wheel weights from the local tire shop inside the stock wheely king wheels.

The difference is huge.

Good luck
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Old 01-14-2008, 03:11 PM   #8
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new tires maybe?
yeah, toss the stock ones at get some Losi Rock Claws. best tires I've had!

some people have tried cutting the chevron treads to give the tire carcass more flex, but when it comes down to it, it's a hard compound tire and will never get as much traction as a Moab, Claw, Masher, etc...
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Old 01-14-2008, 05:26 PM   #9
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Has anyone tried using anything to soften the rubber? We make our own tire solvent for our karts, and I know it works well on touring car rubber tires...
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Old 01-14-2008, 05:54 PM   #10
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BBs are defanetly too heavy, airsoft is what you need. The tire softing idea is good but new tires is simply the easiest way to go.
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Old 01-15-2008, 01:05 PM   #11
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listen im thinking about getting rovck lizards but im a little low on cash atm i have cut then center lugs off all my tires to where should i groove em at now?
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Old 01-16-2008, 07:54 AM   #12
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Like I said, send me a private message and I will send you pictures to your email address.

I have a friend that runs Moab's and every time we wheel together he mentions how well my tires work.
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:10 AM   #13
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Default sick bumber cost...a few pennies

i straped a roll and a half of pennies to the front bumber it helped but you have to use canadian pennies or it doesnt work
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Old 01-16-2008, 03:38 PM   #14
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Canadian pennies, eh? hmm, don't think those are allowed in the US...

My battery up front weighs plenty.

I still have something against adding weight that doesn't DO anything besides add weight (i.e. battery etc...). A Ni-Cd or NiMH weighs plenty if you mount it to the axle... All that does is make the overall rig heavier. I can see the point of putting all the weight as far down and forward as possible, but adding weight to just weigh it down still seems odd IMO. 1:1 guys don't do that, do they??
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Old 01-17-2008, 07:28 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawler king 17 View Post
listen im thinking about getting rovck lizards but im a little low on cash atm i have cut then center lugs off all my tires to where should i groove em at now?
If you get them you need to get the race compound, but if you are going to get those you might as well get the rock claws

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Old 01-17-2008, 10:24 PM   #16
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Canadian pennies, eh? hmm, don't think those are allowed in the US...

My battery up front weighs plenty.

I still have something against adding weight that doesn't DO anything besides add weight (i.e. battery etc...). A Ni-Cd or NiMH weighs plenty if you mount it to the axle... All that does is make the overall rig heavier. I can see the point of putting all the weight as far down and forward as possible, but adding weight to just weigh it down still seems odd IMO. 1:1 guys don't do that, do they??
dont want to put my battery there cause it will be underwater and there is far to much green smoke in my brain to attemt the whole fliparound and servo moving
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Old 01-18-2008, 02:09 AM   #17
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there is a lot of talk about reversing truck . but what happens when you drive down hill. is it not better to put same amount of weight at front and balance truck out.
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Old 02-14-2008, 06:37 AM   #18
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Does it make more sense to put the weight directly in the tire rather than say on the axle housing? I can see that would keep the COG lower, but it seems like it would also be a negative impact by increasing the unsprung weight.

Just trying to get some ideas on easy performance enhancers for the WK. Mine should be arriving today and I have some tungsten weight cubes (from pine car derby setups) to use. I won't be doing any chassis or suspension modifications for a week or two, and looking for some ideas for the meantime.

Thanks!
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Old 02-14-2008, 01:05 PM   #19
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Unsprung weight is good in a crawler. Low CG is most important, besides ground clearence.
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Old 02-14-2008, 07:19 PM   #20
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I like the battery setup on the WK-7 chassis from R7R. One end of the battery tray rests on the axle-mounted servo to apply a bit of weight to the front axle. The battery tray pivots to allow full articulation.

http://www.ripper7racing.com/rhoc/pr...k7/wk7home.htm
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