Stock steering upgrade

[KevenP]

I know, I know put the servo on the axle. I did.

I want to know if someone has taken the time to improve the stock steering. Like a stronger servo, longer arm on the servo, longer arm at the transmission, aluminum pieces on the front axle, custom bell crank?
If so, how does it work?

In the scale class, you're docked 5 points for axle mounted servos.

[smcurry83]

Before I mounted mine on the axle, I tried everything to make the stock set-up better. A stronger servo is a must. Also a longer servo horn will give you more steering throw. Even if you change out all the links with all thread and replave the plastic bellcrank on the axle with an aluminum one, you'll still get play in the mount that the bellcrank is on. Allthough, I did see a thread somewhere, where they made a small brace that ran from one of the holes on the back of the diff up to the mount for the bellcrank. (I'll try & find it for you). If you did all of that, I think the steering would be pretty comparable to mounting it on the axle.

Hope that helps, rather than confuses you...

[crawler king 17]

i tried a hitec 645 in the stock location with a longer arm and it did good.

[EMX5636]

I have basically all the same stuff as the above post, and mine works out pretty well. I don't remember who (Integy or someone else), but do a search on ebay. They make an aluminum upper link mount, the same as stock, so you can use the stock steering bellcrank, and upper link mounts if you want. I'll see if I can come up with the brand.

Justin W

[Locked Up]

Yes.

I put in a TP MG945 and it made a big difference.

Then I put in an alloy steering lever (in the chassis) that has bearings, which helped.

I also changed out the stock arm for the one that came with the Tower Pro.

On the axle, I made my own bellcrank (longer arm for more throw) mounted to an integy upper link mount and ground the stock shafts & inner C's.


Here is the writeup:
http://www.patricksnorton.com/WK/tech/steeringI.php


As for how it worked .... I ran in in a few comps with success. In order to get full steering throw (and take full advantage of the crinding I did) you'd need to make a custom arm at the chassis or a crazy long bellcrank, which would kill the torque, but on a scaler it might not be an issue. You'll also want to get an alloy upper link as the stock upper flexes a lot and can rob some of the steering.

[KevenP]

Thanks all!

Locked Up, I'll go back and reread your 'how to'.

[Locked Up]

I should add that you'll want to beef up the linkage whereyou can.

After I changed out the servo arm and junked the servo saver, I found that the tierod was the next offender. I slid a piece of wire into the slots (tops & bottom) that run across it and CA'd them in. After that I started beefing up the draglink with a new piece and the linkage that runs to and from the chassis arm. Once it was all said and done my last weak link was that the upper Y arm still moved around and took a little out of my steering, but the big killer for me was that the chassis arm was never gonna give me the 100% steering I wanted

[gearmonkey23]

how much better is the hpi sf-2 servo than the sf-1??? im runing the 2 mounted on the front axle, but it still doesnt turn worth a damn. im also running the moped esc, wich is more power to the servo than stock correct??

[Locked Up]

SF-1 is about 40oz/in @ 6v (from someone on this board)

SF-2 is 6.5kg (from HPI) which is 92.43oz/in @ 6v



Compare that to something like a Tower Pro which is 13kg (184oz/in) @ 6v ... and it's only $20:
http://www.jpcustomrcs.atomicshops.c...75/5381533.htm

[Maggster]

Slightly off topic Locked Up, but you've got an awesome web site. Lots of good info.