Several WK Modding Questions

[doesgo]

These may have been answered already, but in searching several pages of previous posts I didn't see the answers and instead came up with more questions! I've got three WKs (for me and the kids); one will remain mostly stock, one with some mods (lockers, LWB, and one pretty seriously modded (but only for fun, not for competition). If any of you can offer advice, I'd sure appreciate it.

Here goes:
1) I've seen upper and lower links mounted to the chassis in the same horizontal plane rather than the upper link mounts above the lower link mounts (like stock). Is this a good thing, bad thing, or application-specific?

2) Is there a legit advantage to replacing the wishbone style upper link with individual upper links mounted to the same point on the axle?

3) What's the advantage of a brushless crawler setup as opposed to a high-turn brushed motor? I come from the high-speed racing and bashing side of RC, so when I think "brushless" I think "speed."

4) When "flipping" the chassis to put the battery up front, if you keep the steering servo in the chassis, how do you mount it or create the linkage? Or do you really need to mount the servo on the axle to flip the chassis?

5) Does pinion angle matter much in a low-speed crawler?

6) I like the Axial AX10 axles with the servo mount up top. Nice and clean. So I bought AX10 axle housings in order to run my WK internals. Then I realized I needed different axles...then different bearings...different upper link mount...different c-hubs...different axle stubs.... Will I ever catch up? Is it realistic to try to put AX10 axles in my WK or should I give up and just create a servo mount to attach to the WK axle housing?

Thanks in advance!

[chris4207]

Flipping the chassis, move the linkage to the other side of the trans and flip the servo. You will have to modify the servo mount some but otherwise it just goes right together with the stock hardware or just go with a axle mount, its easy and you can do it yourself.

[doesgo]

Oh DUH, I forgot the linkage pivots in the center of the truck! Thanks. I might do that on my slightly-modded truck for now, and move the servo to the axle later on.

If I had 4WS, there's really no point in flipping chassis, right? With "servo" reversing on the transmitter and mirrored steering, only the body's direction would dictate the "front" of the truck, correct?

[JIA's Dad]

About the motors. Brush less motors designed for crawling such as the ones sold by Holmes Hobbies work very well. But many people feel that theire is more feel with a 45 or 55 turn brushed motor. There are also some new motors called pullers sold by Holmes Hobbies that use less turn with more magnets, for instance 7 turns over 5 magnets is like a 35 turn motor. If I understood his description and explanation of the new idea. behind the new motors. Regardless of what you came from you will find that this sport of crawling is about going slow. Not speed unless your into rock racing or bashing.
As for steering, 4 wheel steering is allowed in super class, not in the 2.2 class. So build according the the class you want to compete in. If you plan on competing, other wise build whatever you want to drive.

The main thing is enjoy yourself and have fun...

[HndsWthtShdws]

I also like the centered servo and just made my own mount. You are going to have to make your own mount or buy one anyway so you might as well make a centered one.

[doesgo]

Thanks everyone!

I won't be competing, so this is just for fun with my kids. I didn't even intend to get into crawling until I simply pulled the lower link stabilizer off my original 2WD WK and saw the difference it made. Fun stuff! I've been bashing with nitro for years, but with the speed, noise, and fumes, it takes a large area that's quite rural to run. But with a WK, and especially a low-speed crawler, I can have fun with it in virtual silence, virtually anywhere. So then I converted to 4WD, LWB, locked diffs, geared down, etc. Have been too busy to do much with it for the past year but I'm trying to get back into it now.

Anyway, I'll try the Novak Crawler brushless setup I've got on hand (it's a friend's who's not needing it right now) in one truck and try my Integy 65T lathe motor in one. I'm also going to try HPI's gear-reduction unit when it comes in to see what I like best.

What's a "centered servo"? Mounted directly above the pumpkin rather than offset?

[HndsWthtShdws]

By centered I meant having the servo in the middle above the pumpkin like on the AX-10.

[02edge2wd]

You may want to just get the HPI Crawler conversion kit, as it has most of what you have asked about, at the best price for someone who is not going to compete. I have used a few 'parts' from the kit and you just cant beat factory fit! The new axle link mounts are great!

[doesgo]

Thanks, but I've already got most of the parts I need including the lathe motor, brushless setup, Traxxas links and driveshafts, lockers, servos, etc. Also, I like making parts and fabbing stuff, so "building" it is half the fun. I was looking for some theory on the triangulation and pinion angle and all that so I can learn the whys and the wherefores rather than just blindly copy other peoples' ideas.

I just made a axle mount for the servo and put it on the rear, so a couple more tweaks and my mildly-modded WK will have a chassis flip and perhaps 4WS. Dang, I just remembered I had put a locker only in the rear diff when I last worked on this truck....and now that diff is the front diff. LOL! I guess I better put one on the other end now.

[Brainstain]

Your C's are clocked from the factory, so just make sure the knuckles are vertically straight in the front and you'll be good.. You can kick the pinion up in the back without any negative effects if you don't have 4WS.