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Old 05-02-2009, 07:59 PM   #21
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the e sav gears appear hardened and seem to be slightly larger than the WK cause they fit nice and tight in the axle case with minimal shimming. try a set you wont look back. It is the only way Ill run WK axles
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:48 PM   #22
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Hi All,
I ordered some hardened gears quite a while ago but decided not to install them until I tortured the stock crap to death. Now that they have been adequately destroyed I started to rebuild the axle assembly. What do ya know, the new gears don't fit! Here is what I ordered: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=L5JYM302&P=K

The gear bumps on the back side of the ring gear contact the axle housing. WTH?! Sadly, I ordered twice as many as I needed since I have extra WK housings to work with. Has anyone else run into this fitment issue with RS4 gears? If so, how did you overcome it? Thanks in case...
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Old 09-21-2009, 04:58 PM   #23
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These gears here WILL work.

I put them in the front axle. Had to trim the housing around the yoke area alittle, but it worked great and i havent stripped a gear since!!
I am running the axial HD 43/14 set in the rear with a holmes hobbies 500 puller and the only problem since the gear swap now is popping the front driveshaft off while in a hard dig!!
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:15 PM   #24
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Well that's just dandy, but it doesn't help me with the $40 in unusable gears I have! I understand there are gears that DO fit, I just don't know how I ended up with RS4 gears that don't. Just my luck, I guess... I'm hoping for a solution, that's all. Thanks for posting anyway tho!
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:19 PM   #25
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If it is rubbing on the gear side of the housing take the shims off the other side and put all the shims on the gear side. Might give you the clearance you need.
I was running some unknown gears for a bit and i had to add like 5 shims so it would clear on that side.

Also the axials work great with the stage 3 diff locker in the wk.

Last edited by rottenbelly; 09-21-2009 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:26 PM   #26
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Alright cool. The problem is the design of the ring gear - it seems to have deeper teeth so on the "flat side" there are what I would describe as mini-teeth. In fact, you can see what I am talking about in the link I posted - that is the "flat side". I tried removing the washer from the pinion thinking that may have been keeping the ring gear from clearing the housing... no luck. I'll try moving all shims outside the ring gear, but yesterday I was fearful the ring gear would be too far into the pinion that way. Can't hurt to try tho! As much as I don't want to, I may have to Dremel the ring gear a bit as well. The housing actually bends slightly when I try to close it up and then the ring gear wears against the side... very hard to turn. I'll post up the results but I suggest everyone stay away from the gears I linked to earlier. Thanks again!
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:41 PM   #27
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Hope it works!!
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:46 AM   #28
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for reference, are these the E-savage gears everyone is talking about:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPCZ4&P=Z

If so, I think I'm going to order some, can't go wrong at $10 a pop.

oh, and the FLM axial lockers should work too right?
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:28 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracer View Post
for reference, are these the E-savage gears everyone is talking about:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPCZ4&P=Z

If so, I think I'm going to order some, can't go wrong at $10 a pop.

oh, and the FLM axial lockers should work too right?
Those are the ones you dont want to use!!
If you want something that will hold up get these!
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJYM2&P=7
I was stripping front gears like mad till i picked these up. Now the drive yokes just pop off!! (Holmes hoobies puller motor!)
The green axial lockers work. I like the hpi ones. They drop right in.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVGX4&P=7

The fit good but you do have to do a little case mod to make them fit.
Right were the bearing that carries the pinion shaft goes in.

Last edited by rottenbelly; 09-22-2009 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:29 PM   #30
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hey hows it going, so i think my stock dif gears are good to go right now i havent striped one yet but its the drive axles im having a prob with i have the maximizer lockers and i cant find a beefy drive axle the integy ones dont work with my lockers any suggestions
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:31 PM   #31
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also do you use the stock WK drive axles????
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:56 PM   #32
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I am using these in the front.
http://rcpcrawlers.com/product.php?p...&cat=23&page=1
By far the strongest axle i have tried!!
And in the rear i am using these.
http://rcpcrawlers.com/product.php?p...&cat=23&page=1
I have tried the RC4wd stainless steel axles also and have yet to break one.
http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...roducts_id=295
All of these work fine with the hpi locker in the diffs.

I would recommend you to stay away from intergy stuff, The aluminum is very soft. I have broke just about everything i once bought from intergy.
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:06 PM   #33
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i think im going to go for the stainless ones asap cuz the other integy axle broke today yur right integy sux thanx again
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Old 12-09-2009, 11:01 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creep View Post
Alright cool. The problem is the design of the ring gear - it seems to have deeper teeth so on the "flat side" there are what I would describe as mini-teeth. In fact, you can see what I am talking about in the link I posted - that is the "flat side". I tried removing the washer from the pinion thinking that may have been keeping the ring gear from clearing the housing... no luck. I'll try moving all shims outside the ring gear, but yesterday I was fearful the ring gear would be too far into the pinion that way. Can't hurt to try tho! As much as I don't want to, I may have to Dremel the ring gear a bit as well. The housing actually bends slightly when I try to close it up and then the ring gear wears against the side... very hard to turn. I'll post up the results but I suggest everyone stay away from the gears I linked to earlier. Thanks again!
how'd all that end up working for ya?
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Old 12-10-2009, 08:59 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_dishmon View Post
how'd all that end up working for ya?
It works! I took my Dremel to the backside of the ring gear and was still able to to keep some material at the valley of the gears - so far so good!
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Old 12-13-2009, 07:27 AM   #36
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good to hear. i gotta set of those on the way.
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Old 12-23-2009, 03:57 PM   #37
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stuffed the diff with the heavy duty final drive rs4 gears. all i had to do was shave the back of the pinion gear flat and shim it with washers. great fit and beefy. truck's wheelin' great so far.

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Old 12-23-2009, 10:54 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EeePee View Post
I've got WK gears in the back of my Axial. Actually, it's a HD Axial 38T, and WK 13T. I've also got RS4 HS gears (36/14 - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJYM3&P=7) in the front of my Axial.

Soon, I'll try the E-Savage gears in back, as they seem to be a cheap steel gear alternative to crappy pot metal, or expensive machined steel HD Axials.

So I have all kinds of gears in mine. Granted it's an Axial, but I don't see why they wouldn't work in a WK?
So, this:



HPI-86329

Plus this:


HPI - 82020

equals inexpensive steel overdrive gears for the front of an AX10 (36/14)?

and 2 sets would be fine for the wk, but it would be a little faster right?

That means for $31 bucks shipped (3 gear sets, 1 input shaft), I can have overdrive for the AX10 comp rig, and slightly faster, more durable r&p for the WK scaler? ($43 if I want to convert the WK to 5mm shafts.)

Sweet!
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Old 12-26-2009, 03:49 PM   #39
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if it worked for EeePee, i don't see why not. they cleared my diffs with no problem ,even though mine are wk and his are axial. go for it. shouldn't give you any problems a lil grind here or a shim there couldn't fix.
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Old 12-26-2009, 05:41 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creep View Post
Alright cool. The problem is the design of the ring gear - it seems to have deeper teeth so on the "flat side" there are what I would describe as mini-teeth. In fact, you can see what I am talking about in the link I posted - that is the "flat side". I tried removing the washer from the pinion thinking that may have been keeping the ring gear from clearing the housing... no luck. I'll try moving all shims outside the ring gear, but yesterday I was fearful the ring gear would be too far into the pinion that way. Can't hurt to try tho! As much as I don't want to, I may have to Dremel the ring gear a bit as well. The housing actually bends slightly when I try to close it up and then the ring gear wears against the side... very hard to turn. I'll post up the results but I suggest everyone stay away from the gears I linked to earlier. Thanks again!

You have the RS4 "underdrive gears" that come in the RS4 cars they have less teeth on the ring gear. The pinion should have more also.
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