RCCrawler Forums

NickRummy · 03-05-2007, 06:52 AM

I picked up a wheely king weeks ago. Put a 2S lipo in it and have been beating it up. Decided I wanted to stretch the wheelbase to stop the wheely action and turn it into a capable trail truck that would be decent on rocks, good in mud, good climber etc...

Made my own lower links and mounted a tamiya upper stack bracket on the top of the WK axle for the upper links. I was going to wait on making upper links until I got the lower links put together but I found out that the 112mm revo rods worked just about perfectly. I also mounted the bottom of the shock to the screw that holds the C-hub in. I'm going to still make my own upper links.

I cut about 1/4" off of stock maxx drive shafts. I'm not sure what happened here but I ended up buying half shafts with yokes and the yokes had a 5mm shaft diameter? I thought maxxes all used 6mm? Maybe they were for a different vehicle.... so I had to buy new yokes.

I'm going to run swamp dawgs and some type of beadlock wheels (if axials ever come out) but here it is with the WK wheels.

The mandatory flex shot.

I'll be running a rubicon body but I got this suburban body from sloppy so I set it on there. It looks decent to me. I might try some savage shocks to get the chassis up in the air some more. I think about 3/4" higher would be nice and the stock shocks are just way to short for that. That center section is going to drag like a mother since it doesn't have a skid plate. It's a trail truck after all so I'm not to worried about center of gravity. It would look a lot better with some more of that chassis hidden too.

Big Mike · 03-05-2007, 06:56 AM

Did you hack up some Easton arrow shafts for your lower links? Those should be strong alright. Looking good so far...

JasonInAugusta · 03-05-2007, 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickRummy

I cut about 1/4" off of stock maxx drive shafts. I'm not sure what happened here but I ended up buying half shafts with yokes and the yokes had a 5mm shaft diameter? I thought maxxes all used 6mm? Maybe they were for a different vehicle.... so I had to buy new yokes.

T-Maxx transmissions use 5mm yokes. (TRA4927)
E-Maxx transmissions and the Maxx diff inputs/outputs use 6mm yokes. (TRA4928 )

NickRummy · 03-05-2007, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Mike

Did you hack up some Easton arrow shafts for your lower links? Those should be strong alright. Looking good so far...

Yup, here is the thread on them.

Rod end sizes and part numbers

JIA, that explains the mishap!

swhenrik · 03-05-2007, 08:27 AM

I posted in JIA's thread about this, but I'll put it here too... The WK shafts and Maxx shafts are exactly the same, you can mix and match parts from each. So, put your WK ends on the maxx shafts for example.

Rat1 · 03-05-2007, 09:09 AM

I was looking at your pinion angles a bit and they seem to be a bit on the severe side. Not sure but you might want to shorten up the upper links or lengthen the lower links to get the pinion angles more inline.

NickRummy · 03-05-2007, 09:17 AM

I agree with you %100 however, if I change the upper links to help with pinion angle my caster is going to get rediculous. Remember that the WK axles are setup to point the pinion up at the bottom of the tranny. I ran it aorund and I have no drive shaft binding. Clocking the C-hubs on the axle would be nice but I don't want to grind off the tabs on the axle housings to do that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rat1

I was looking at your pinion angles a bit and they seem to be a bit on the severe side. Not sure but you might want to shorten up the upper links or lengthen the lower links to get the pinion angles more inline.

Rat1 · 03-05-2007, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickRummy

I agree with you %100 however, if I change the upper links to help with pinion angle my caster is going to get rediculous. Remember that the WK axles are setup to point the pinion up at the bottom of the tranny. I ran it aorund and I have no drive shaft binding. Clocking the C-hubs on the axle would be nice but I don't want to grind off the tabs on the axle housings to do that.

I do not have a WK yet and did not know about the caster. Oh well it was a shot anyway.

Maybe someone in the aftermarket will offer up some new Cs to make the caster problem better when clocking the axle?

NickRummy · 03-05-2007, 09:48 AM

It would be relatively easy to do. I'm wanting to get a set of C-hubs to try and dremel out the slots to clock them how I want. It's ok for now but would be nice to have that option.

dezfan · 03-05-2007, 10:02 AM

The axles are fine. We have been trying to get clocked TLT axles for ages.

When you have away from the stock chassis, I think you will be pleased w/ the OEM setup!

NickRummy · 03-05-2007, 10:45 AM

I agree Dez. The stock chassis has the outputs REALLY low. I plan on raising the truck about an inch when I get the new shocks which will make the drivelines about perfect. In a custom chassis I'm sure the OEM pinion angle would be nice.

sloppy · 03-06-2007, 08:32 PM

nice need to get some camo on that burb body to match those links

NickRummy · 03-07-2007, 06:19 AM

I have a set of savage shocks and swamp dawgs coming in next week hopefully. That will help get that belly up a bit and get me some tires that are actually worth something. Tow motor tires flex better than these things.

I'm also cutting up the arrow shafts to make the upper links today. I'll give you those pushrods back. I was going to go buy the inserts after work but we got 2-3 inches so we'll see how the roads afterwards.

NickRummy · 03-08-2007, 06:37 AM

Cut down some aluminum to make some temporary extended body posts. As soon as the shocks get in I'll readjust the body so it doesn't have that goofy body lift look to it.

Then took it out for a little bashing around. It was to cold to stay out for more than 10 minutes.

Here is a short video.

Looks like I'll have to epoxy or glue those inserts into the arrows. They were a REALLY right fit but I still managed to pull one out. I just popped it back in and didn't have any more problems. I'll glue them in to play it safe.

Slow_Joe · 03-08-2007, 07:19 AM

nick,
how long did you make the lower links?

NickRummy · 03-08-2007, 07:32 AM

Here is what I made mine to.

Slow_Joe · 03-08-2007, 07:41 AM

sweet. thanks

sloppy · 03-10-2007, 12:33 PM

all right i need to get the pede back out and we can beat the snot out of these things you better get some ballons so we can try to drown them.
did you get those tires mounted?

cammok5 · 03-10-2007, 08:51 PM

is that the top speed stock.

JIA's Dad · 03-12-2007, 01:05 AM

Nick, Glad to see the XX75 cutoffs going to good use. Since you are using the inserts which have 8-32 threads you could use 8-32 all-thread and go all the way thru the cutoffs with out the inserts and never have to worry about the inserts pulling out or the arrow bending factor. The right ball ends fit inside or flush up with some arrows.

03-05-2007, 06:52 AM	#1
NickRummy RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Akron Posts: 1,784	My WK Trail truck I picked up a wheely king weeks ago. Put a 2S lipo in it and have been beating it up. Decided I wanted to stretch the wheelbase to stop the wheely action and turn it into a capable trail truck that would be decent on rocks, good in mud, good climber etc... Made my own lower links and mounted a tamiya upper stack bracket on the top of the WK axle for the upper links. I was going to wait on making upper links until I got the lower links put together but I found out that the 112mm revo rods worked just about perfectly. I also mounted the bottom of the shock to the screw that holds the C-hub in. I'm going to still make my own upper links. I cut about 1/4" off of stock maxx drive shafts. I'm not sure what happened here but I ended up buying half shafts with yokes and the yokes had a 5mm shaft diameter? I thought maxxes all used 6mm? Maybe they were for a different vehicle.... so I had to buy new yokes. I'm going to run swamp dawgs and some type of beadlock wheels (if axials ever come out) but here it is with the WK wheels. The mandatory flex shot. I'll be running a rubicon body but I got this suburban body from sloppy so I set it on there. It looks decent to me. I might try some savage shocks to get the chassis up in the air some more. I think about 3/4" higher would be nice and the stock shocks are just way to short for that. That center section is going to drag like a mother since it doesn't have a skid plate. It's a trail truck after all so I'm not to worried about center of gravity. It would look a lot better with some more of that chassis hidden too.

03-05-2007, 06:56 AM	#2
Big Mike I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV Posts: 2,781	Did you hack up some Easton arrow shafts for your lower links? Those should be strong alright. Looking good so far...

03-05-2007, 08:27 AM	#5
swhenrik Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Minnesota Posts: 154	I posted in JIA's thread about this, but I'll put it here too... The WK shafts and Maxx shafts are exactly the same, you can mix and match parts from each. So, put your WK ends on the maxx shafts for example.

03-05-2007, 09:09 AM	#6
Rat1 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Rats nest Grafton ND Posts: 381	I was looking at your pinion angles a bit and they seem to be a bit on the severe side. Not sure but you might want to shorten up the upper links or lengthen the lower links to get the pinion angles more inline.

03-05-2007, 09:48 AM	#9
NickRummy RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Akron Posts: 1,784	It would be relatively easy to do. I'm wanting to get a set of C-hubs to try and dremel out the slots to clock them how I want. It's ok for now but would be nice to have that option.

03-05-2007, 10:02 AM	#10
dezfan I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK. Posts: 12,563	The axles are fine. We have been trying to get clocked TLT axles for ages. When you have away from the stock chassis, I think you will be pleased w/ the OEM setup!

03-05-2007, 10:45 AM	#11
NickRummy RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Akron Posts: 1,784	I agree Dez. The stock chassis has the outputs REALLY low. I plan on raising the truck about an inch when I get the new shocks which will make the drivelines about perfect. In a custom chassis I'm sure the OEM pinion angle would be nice.

03-06-2007, 08:32 PM	#12
sloppy I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: akron Posts: 4,054	nice need to get some camo on that burb body to match those links

03-07-2007, 06:19 AM	#13
NickRummy RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Akron Posts: 1,784	I have a set of savage shocks and swamp dawgs coming in next week hopefully. That will help get that belly up a bit and get me some tires that are actually worth something. Tow motor tires flex better than these things. I'm also cutting up the arrow shafts to make the upper links today. I'll give you those pushrods back. I was going to go buy the inserts after work but we got 2-3 inches so we'll see how the roads afterwards.

03-08-2007, 06:37 AM	#14
NickRummy RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Akron Posts: 1,784	Cut down some aluminum to make some temporary extended body posts. As soon as the shocks get in I'll readjust the body so it doesn't have that goofy body lift look to it. Then took it out for a little bashing around. It was to cold to stay out for more than 10 minutes. Here is a short video. Looks like I'll have to epoxy or glue those inserts into the arrows. They were a REALLY right fit but I still managed to pull one out. I just popped it back in and didn't have any more problems. I'll glue them in to play it safe.

03-08-2007, 07:19 AM	#15
Slow_Joe Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Dirty Jerzee Posts: 356	nick, how long did you make the lower links?

Sponsored Links

03-08-2007, 07:32 AM	#16
NickRummy RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Akron Posts: 1,784	Here is what I made mine to.

03-08-2007, 07:41 AM	#17
Slow_Joe Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Dirty Jerzee Posts: 356	sweet. thanks

03-10-2007, 12:33 PM	#18
sloppy I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: akron Posts: 4,054	all right i need to get the pede back out and we can beat the snot out of these things you better get some ballons so we can try to drown them. did you get those tires mounted?

03-10-2007, 08:51 PM	#19
cammok5 Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: nc Posts: 867	is that the top speed stock.

03-12-2007, 01:05 AM	#20
JIA's Dad Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Midway Posts: 836	Nick, Glad to see the XX75 cutoffs going to good use. Since you are using the inserts which have 8-32 threads you could use 8-32 all-thread and go all the way thru the cutoffs with out the inserts and never have to worry about the inserts pulling out or the arrow bending factor. The right ball ends fit inside or flush up with some arrows.

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