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Old 05-02-2007, 07:24 PM   #1
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Default easiest way to...

I was just wondering how easy it was to make a WK into a comp crawler.
i am new to crawling with a 1/18 Nighlint. i was wondering what to do a 4X4 WK or a Axial AX10 SCORPION???
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Old 05-02-2007, 09:08 PM   #2
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axel scorp= crawler(not sure if its comp-ready)
wheely king =wheely king but with some stretching of the WB and a new chassis it could easly become a comp-crawler
and you spelled nylint wrong

Last edited by Kranberry; 05-03-2007 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 05-03-2007, 12:11 AM   #3
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Just get the axial. The WK isnt marketed as a true rock crawler, its a general purpose/bashing rig, easily modded into a crawler. The axial scorpion is a crawler from the start. Why does this question even need to be asked? I think the search function should be made far larger so even noobs can see it!
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Old 05-03-2007, 02:46 AM   #4
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the axial IS a nice looking rig thats purpose-built, but there is much more required to get it up and running. plus, you may hate the hobby in a month (then you can sell it to someone here or on ebay for half price). if you are new to the hobby, go for the w.k. you can upgrade the electronics if you want to later.
heres a list of the stuff i did to mine in a few hours. with a few bucks, minimal tools & a little creativity you too can have a very capable crawler.


* made new links to get the wheelbase to 12 1/2 inches ($5.00 for 5/32nd drill rod and $7.00 for a bag of revo ends)
* new o.t.a.(over the axle) servo mount & upper link mount (free, metal i had)
* new rear upper link mount (free, i had the metal lying around)
* narrowed rims to 35 m.m. i know that everyone says w.k. tires are easy to remove, but mine were a bitch!! (free)
* ditched the stock motor for a 75 turn ($20.00)
* 96 spur/13 pinion ($ 7.00)
* custom lower shock mounting points ($.50 of alum)
* cut the wheel wells of the body out (free)
* stainless steel (slides better than alum.) front skid plate. (free, had it laying around too)
* i also bought a peak battery charger ($45.00) and two 3600 mh batteries ($75.00, the most expensive item besides the truck kit) so i could run longer. i expect about 30-40 minutes per battery

so, in total i spent less than $200.00 more, i have made the truck WAY better handling, climbs up a vertical surface, and runs 2 or 3 times longer!! plus, getting there (building your own up) is half the fun!!
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Old 05-03-2007, 04:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kreepykrawler View Post
the axial IS a nice looking rig thats purpose-built, but there is much more required to get it up and running. plus, you may hate the hobby in a month (then you can sell it to someone here or on ebay for half price). if you are new to the hobby, go for the w.k. you can upgrade the electronics if you want to later.
heres a list of the stuff i did to mine in a few hours. with a few bucks, minimal tools & a little creativity you too can have a very capable crawler.


* made new links to get the wheelbase to 12 1/2 inches ($5.00 for 5/32nd drill rod and $7.00 for a bag of revo ends)
* new o.t.a.(over the axle) servo mount & upper link mount (free, metal i had)
* new rear upper link mount (free, i had the metal lying around)
* narrowed rims to 35 m.m. i know that everyone says w.k. tires are easy to remove, but mine were a bitch!! (free)
* ditched the stock motor for a 75 turn ($20.00)
* 96 spur/13 pinion ($ 7.00)
* custom lower shock mounting points ($.50 of alum)
* cut the wheel wells of the body out (free)
* stainless steel (slides better than alum.) front skid plate. (free, had it laying around too)
* i also bought a peak battery charger ($45.00) and two 3600 mh batteries ($75.00, the most expensive item besides the truck kit) so i could run longer. i expect about 30-40 minutes per battery

so, in total i spent less than $200.00 more, i have made the truck WAY better handling, climbs up a vertical surface, and runs 2 or 3 times longer!! plus, getting there (building your own up) is half the fun!!

Got any PICS of your skid Plate??
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Old 05-03-2007, 07:31 AM   #6
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How do you like the gearing with the 75 turn and 96/13
spur gear?

I haven't got my wk yet but have been thinking about running a larger tire and using a 75 turn instead of a 55 turn and 2.2 tires!
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Old 05-03-2007, 09:28 AM   #7
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no pics yet. i just got a new computer and i need to still load my camera software.

i think the axial is one of the most thought out chassis kits there is, but it does need a bunch of stuff to get it rolling.

i also locked the axles w/ hot glue. HUGE DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!

the gearing is good. it only goes about 2 mph, but i pulled it up to my garage door, and it walked right up it til it flipped over at vert. it seems that it will be effective for stalling down a rock face too. it just does not roll!!! in fact, i had put it back together after painting a couple of parts and i couldnt turn the axle (by hand) at the hex. i thought a screw was hitting the bevel gear so i pulled it all back apart and it was just the gear-down!! the gearing/motor swap has made a HUGE difference.

even w/ the stock radio gear it all works together very well.

Last edited by kreepykrawler; 05-03-2007 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 05-03-2007, 10:24 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjkranwinkle@cableone.net View Post
axel scopr= crawler(not sure if its comp-ready)
wheely king =wheely king but with some stretching of the wb and a new chassis i could easly become a comp-crawler
and you spel nylint wrong
There are at least 6 grammatical errors in your post, and you're gonna close it by correcting somebody else's spelling. You didn't even spell "spell" right. How's that glass house treating you??


Kreepy - did you relocate the battery or reverse the chassis? I never really explored what I could get out of a stock chassis, but wished I had the time to try.
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Old 05-03-2007, 12:01 PM   #9
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the wk's are capable after you put weight in the front
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Old 05-03-2007, 01:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
narrowed rims to 35 m.m. i know that everyone says w.k. tires are easy to remove, but mine were a bitch!! (free)
Are you still running the stock tires or did you switch them out to a 2.2 or a larger tire?

and would you reccomend that gear and motor setup or would you go a little faster on the motor?

and thanks for the info!

I am still waiting for mine to show, but my buddy had to go get one from the LHS yesterday just to torment me a little bit. now I have to make it through this weekend without playing or going and buying stuff for it!
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Old 05-03-2007, 02:09 PM   #11
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[quote=todd1803;691630]There are at least 6 grammatical errors in your post, and you're gonna close it by correcting somebody else's spelling. You didn't even spell "spell" right. How's that glass house treating you??

LMAO!! GO TODDY
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Old 05-03-2007, 07:49 PM   #12
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i relocated the batt tray, cut it up, used part of it on the back for an additional tray, flipped the chassis AND sacrificed a chicken on the full moon at midnite in hopes that it would all work. well, it worked!!
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Old 05-03-2007, 08:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todd1803 View Post
There are at least 6 grammatical errors in your post, and you're gonna close it by correcting somebody else's spelling. You didn't even spell "spell" right. How's that glass house treating you??


Kreepy - did you relocate the battery or reverse the chassis? I never really explored what I could get out of a stock chassis, but wished I had the time to try.
sorry will fix it
EDIT no i dont live in a glass house. Why would you think i live in a glass house?

Last edited by Kranberry; 05-03-2007 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 05-03-2007, 10:07 PM   #14
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the comment is a figure of speech that if your younger than 30 you may not get it. i'm old enough to have invented the saying!!!

mrwrighttt: i am still running the stock tires/rims. narrowed the rims to 33 m.m. and made custom foams from a round cylinder -stock. you could run a 65 or 70t for a little more top-end. i'm gonna run 2.2's when i upgrade to a mamba system.

todd: r u gonna be at the may 12 comp? you more than welcome to check out what i did to the truck, and i'm gonna try to get some pics up tonite or tomorrow. i took the bottom half of the tray off, cut one of the web sections off (the 1/2 w/ the side screw holes so you can remount it) put it on the back end of the truck. i also used the rear bumper mount holes to drill two small holes for additional strength. you can re-use the bumper for chassis stiffness, you just need to trim the tray a little bit and the bumper will slot right back in place. i covered the new 1/2 tray w/ a piece of clear plastic from a little clamshell pack that had some screws in it. i held that down w/ my FAVORITE secret product, household goop. clear, flexible, STRONG, and can be removed if needed.
i did all of this so that i could have a 2nd tray and mounted my esc on it. i needed a 6" extender for the connector. actually i didnt NEED it, but i wanted to run the wire in a certain direction.
now, as for the battery holder(no longer a tray!), i left the top part in its orig spot. i took it off, made 4 slots in each end, on both sides to run what is called "bundling velcro" thru the slots. this stuff is FANTASTIC!!! it has both hook on one side and loop on the other, and is about a 1/3 of the thickness of just one side of regular velcro. holds just as well too!! you can get it at any fabric store. put slots as close to the spot where the tray side and top come together. this is important cuz it will determine how tight your battery is held UP to the tray. the other slots i put about 2-3 m.m. from the edge of the (now) bottom of the tray. this helps spread the load of the battery over the tray sides.
there is no mounting holes on the rear of the tray, so i drilled holes in the top and sides of the tray and ran zippys thru them. now the battery is held up super tight and comes out w/ only pulling the front piece loose. you can wiggle it back in the rear one pretty easy. WHEW!, i havent typed this much since my finals!! thanks for bearing with me thru this rant!
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Old 05-04-2007, 12:19 AM   #15
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Damn, that sounds like a lot of work. I'll be there on the 12th, can't wait to see it. I'm just glad I won't have the only WK at the comp. Seems there are a bunch of haters around here.


Quote:
Originally Posted by toomanyrcz
LMAO!! GO TODDY
You gonna make it to Tinkham Justin?
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Old 05-04-2007, 01:58 AM   #16
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people can be rejecting of change and new things. we'll see how they feel when w.k.'s take one/two in the comp(smack)!!!
it really isnt that much work, but it was alot to type. i just took a bunch of pics of it all, and tomorrow i'm gonna sign up for an account so i can post the pics.
i created a bit of a stir on warcrc regarding the w.k. body, eh? if you didnt see it, check it out under the comp talk section.

DONT HATE THE PLAYA, HATE THE GAME!!!
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Old 05-04-2007, 06:53 AM   #17
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the axial ax10 shows on tower for $250... but then you need all the extras!

I say stick with the WK and stretching is actually very easy! I do not know the driveshaft issue for stretching, but probably not much of an issue..

I would say for the $250 you will spend on just the roller Axial AX10, you can get the WK in good shape!

I am trying to talk my wife into getting a WK for my son!
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:13 AM   #18
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What kreepykrawler is saying is this.

He who lives in a glass house shalt not throw stones.
ie: One who misspells should not correct others that also misspell.
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Old 05-04-2007, 12:51 PM   #19
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exellent comment vertigo. exactly. i dont like to correct people for they're grammar (cuz i no how e-z it iz 2 mis pell wen u r trying 2 git a thot out ov yer hed) ,but jeez!!

gopher; when you stretch out the w.b. to 12 1/2", you wil need to go w/ revo or t maxx driveshafts. you will probably need to cut them down a little, but they work well. i discovered that the t maxx outputs dont ft proper. the hole is a different diameter. you could heat up the metal tranny shaft and push it on, but i used my w.k. ones and drilled out the holes to fit the maxx balls. worked great!!

Last edited by kreepykrawler; 05-04-2007 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 05-04-2007, 01:45 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by kreepykrawler View Post
...discovered that the t maxx outputs dont ft proper. the hole is a different diameter. you could heat up the metal tranny shaft and push it on, but i used my w.k. ones and drilled out the holes to fit the maxx balls. worked great!!
You need Traxxas # 4928X yokes to fit the WK tranny outputs...there are two different Maxx yokes with different input hole sizes.
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