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Thread: HPI converts a WK to a crawler

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Old 08-21-2007, 11:48 AM   #61
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Thanks jOe. Picked them up last night and started on the WB, almost done with that part of the build.
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Old 08-26-2007, 08:49 AM   #62
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^
cool! gotta get a pic up!
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Old 08-26-2007, 05:18 PM   #63
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Default round tubing

the round tubing in the article says 3031 1/4 .049 round tubing for the links but k&s website shows the 3031 1/4 round tubing is .035 wall, is this what they used and is it just a typo? I dont want the tubing to be too small to fit the allthread through because I have to mail order all this. thanks
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Old 08-26-2007, 10:25 PM   #64
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I used the Alum. tube from the LHS and it was toooo weak. I ended up going with steel brakeline. I haven't bent anything too bad with the BL.

jOe: I put a pic in the archive tonight.
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Old 08-27-2007, 01:51 PM   #65
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Default aluminum shocks

Does anyone run aftermarket aluminum shocks on their WK like the ones at RC4WD.com? Any pics? thanks
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Old 08-27-2007, 05:16 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawleR07 View Post
the round tubing in the article says 3031 1/4 .049 round tubing for the links but k&s website shows the 3031 1/4 round tubing is .035 wall, is this what they used and is it just a typo? I dont want the tubing to be too small to fit the allthread through because I have to mail order all this. thanks
The K&S 1/4 x .049 round aluminum tubing is stock # 3061, not 3031 as stated in the article. The stated allthread fits through #3061 and the .049 wall will be stronger.
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Old 08-29-2007, 03:37 AM   #67
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Any fellow Canadians following the instructions for this build?
I have been to 2 different Home Depot locations and cannot source the 6-32 allthread to build the links. Just wondering if I have bad luck, or if perhaps Home Depot's stock up here is different that what may be available in the US.
Thanks!
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Old 08-29-2007, 11:22 AM   #68
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You might want to try a Lowes if ya all have them up there. If not you might want to call around to your local hardware stores, they might stock it.
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Old 08-29-2007, 03:33 PM   #69
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I went back to Home Depot today and spoke to a guy in the hardware dept. Turns out the Canadian stores often carry different stock than the US outlets, and they don't have the 6-32 all thread rod here.
After a bunch of questions and some searching I found the all thread at a place called SB Simpson, so if any fellow Canadians are having difficulty sourcing the 6-32 all thread rod, you now know one place that stocks it
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Old 08-31-2007, 03:49 PM   #70
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Default E-savage shaftsI

I got the 82008 shafts from the e-savage for the crawler build on the WK but the 82009 shaft is back ordered. Is there any reason I can't shorten one of the 82008 shafts to use instead of waiting for the 82009 part number shaft to show up?
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Old 09-01-2007, 03:35 PM   #71
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From the pics to the trick photography,That was cool!
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Old 09-01-2007, 03:38 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawleR07 View Post
I got the 82008 shafts from the e-savage for the crawler build on the WK but the 82009 shaft is back ordered. Is there any reason I can't shorten one of the 82008 shafts to use instead of waiting for the 82009 part number shaft to show up?
You can also use emaxx/.15 Maxx shafts also.
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Old 09-01-2007, 05:59 PM   #73
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Default Trouble with allthread

In the list for the build it list 632 allthread but in the pictures for the links it says 6-40. What allthread is used for what and what are the real specs for them, any help is appreciated. Having trouble finding the right rod at Lowes and Home Depot.
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Old 09-01-2007, 09:12 PM   #74
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Yes there were multiple type-o's in that write up. You need 632 All thread. And if you have not noticed in the write up there is not a length given for the steering link. You will need to have that cut to 120MM.
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Old 09-02-2007, 07:35 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawleR07 View Post
I got the 82008 shafts from the e-savage for the crawler build on the WK but the 82009 shaft is back ordered. Is there any reason I can't shorten one of the 82008 shafts to use instead of waiting for the 82009 part number shaft to show up?
You're absolutely correct, just shorten the 82008 shafts, and save yourself the money. I'm a little miffed that I blindly ordered the unneccessary 82009 shaft, but I'm a newb and didn't know any better at the time. When my items arrived from Tower I was trying to figure out why I had just ordered 3 shafts. I suppose since this is an HPI build, and they're HPI parts they're going to suggest you order as much as possible
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Old 09-03-2007, 03:46 PM   #76
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I appreciate the good info guys, thanks
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:29 PM   #77
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Thanks, I just got my WK, and I already streached the sespention. I used the original link ends, I just cut them off, and drilled them out. I'm on my way.


Thanks again for the great info. The new guy
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Old 09-04-2007, 09:04 AM   #78
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anyone else have problems with the rear drive shaft sticking? I cut the 13mm off and for what ever reason it wasn't enough... or the thing is sticking and won't collapse enough for me to put my rear links back on.
( I imagine the reason why they tell you to order the front drive shaft is so you won't have to cut two...)
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Old 09-04-2007, 02:25 PM   #79
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what did they do for the steering rod that goes to the axle?
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Old 09-05-2007, 08:55 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaWa View Post
anyone else have problems with the rear drive shaft sticking? I cut the 13mm off and for what ever reason it wasn't enough... or the thing is sticking and won't collapse enough for me to put my rear links back on.
( I imagine the reason why they tell you to order the front drive shaft is so you won't have to cut two...)
Figured out the problem... you need to cut the 13mm off the male end of the E-Savage drive shaft and use the WK female with the newly cut male.
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