***Crawler Design Works Twin Force 10.***

[rob_b]

Hi all, been lurking for almost 4 years and have finally starting building crawlers. Picked up an AX10 My Custom AX10 and am now ready for something a little tougher. I had purchased a Twin Force back in 04 to build into a Super but never got around to it. SO, its time to go the other way and build an extra stout 2.2. There are no comps around here so I'm thinking a 14" WB would help with the nearly vertical climbs that I love so much. Currently, I am collecting parts and working out some ideas in the computer. Last night I narrowed the front axle to approx. 8-1/2" hex-to-hex. I decided to off-set the pumpkin to the drivers side, which kills me as an early Jeep guy, to improve diff clearance since I'll be running shorter tires. I chose drivers side because I'm thinking I'll run an AX tranny w/ VF dig. A rear axle lockout is also in order. Still very early in the design phase but just wanted to share.

Thanks

[yotachump]

Looks Awesome,I really like the offset pumpkin you got some CAD skills.

What dogbones are you using?

Also the only problem I see with the rear lock out, is that the hex would be rubbing against the bracket that is covering the bearings.I think you should make one bearing go in from the inside and one go in from the outside, just like the bearings sit in the knuckle.

[Bart bender]

Holy $%@*&!!! Somebody gots some CAD skills. Looks like you could very easily put CVD's in both ends. They are stronger than the stock stubs anyway. I guess you are running 2.2 though aren't you. That rear axle is going to look very scale too, HMM. That would look good under my CJ5.

I just noticed that your set screw is only going to hold the pin in place if you drill out the stub shaft. Right now it is just going to clamp the hex to the stub?

[rob_b]

thanks for the feedback guys...

Originally Posted by yotachump

Looks Awesome,I really like the offset pumpkin you got some CAD skills.

What dogbones are you using?

Also the only problem I see with the rear lock out, is that the hex would be rubbing against the bracket that is covering the bearings.I think you should make one bearing go in from the inside and one go in from the outside, just like the bearings sit in the knuckle.

I have not thought about dog bones/CVD's yet and changes have been made. It will be much easier to make as well.

Originally Posted by Bart bender

Holy $%@*&!!! Somebody gots some CAD skills. Looks like you could very easily put CVD's in both ends. They are stronger than the stock stubs anyway. I guess you are running 2.2 though aren't you. That rear axle is going to look very scale too, HMM. That would look good under my CJ5.

I just noticed that your set screw is only going to hold the pin in place if you drill out the stub shaft. Right now it is just going to clamp the hex to the stub?

I hope that I have CAD skills since they bring home the bacon. The hex shown above were a 23mm proline that I down sized to 14mm because I was being lazy. Currently shown is a 12mm hex more along the lines of the stock piece. I also threw in a picture of my old 1:1 died for you Bart.

Thanks Guys

[yotachump]

There you go. Looks good now.

[Vapex.eu]

What are they gonna cost? :P I love them

[blue-beard]

Damn thats some great looking stuff!





Makes me feel even more like a hack!

[Bart bender]

Them hot tubs ain't made for 80" wheel base are they? You'll get another one some day.

Your changes to the design look spot on now too.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Got any measurements on the dogbones? I am getting some made up and I want my diff slammed to one side, so we should just put our heads together on this and make some awesome axles!

[rob_b]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Got any measurements on the dogbones? I am getting some made up and I want my diff slammed to one side, so we should just put our heads together on this and make some awesome axles!

Going to use a stock short bone for the long side. I still need to figure out the length of the short side. It's going to be really short...

[JohnRobHolmes]

If you are shooting for 8.5" width then the shorter side will be a hair under 1" long, 0.98" if I remember right and my measurements are correct. These are my ideas so far: 2.2 width swingshafts/ dogbones

[Wrecker]

I'm really liking the idea of these lockouts and some shafts from JRH. You guys should definitely work together to get compatible stuff figured out so that way I can be lazy and just buy the stuff instead of making it myself.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Since we are talking about the design, how hard would it be to put a few ears on the tubes for link mounts? Maybe just a ring of material that could be ground off on the sides where it wasn't used. Nahhh, that doesn't sounds very clean now that I think about it. I want these to look really good when they are done.

[rob_b]

Ok, yotachump and I have been working on the lockout dim's. Currently we have them set for...

Long side:
stock long axle half
new lockout
stock short dog bone (3.329")
case split to hex (5.406")

Short side:
cut short axle half
new lockout
new dog bone (1.267")
case split to hex (3.344")

Hex to Hex: 8.75"

Using the stock short dog bone I don't think you can get much narrower than this as the short side is cut so much.

[JohnRobHolmes]

8.75 is great hex to hex for a 2.2 I think. My bone estimation was only .03" off if you add the extra width, so everything seems to be lining up. I measured the short side stockers as 3.331" so that should be the discrepancy. They will be about .75" wider than axials, but some negative offset wheels could bring em in with no trouble and we could still have room to push them out for a 14" WB rig too.


If everything seems good I will have some 1.267" bones made up to match. My measurements are .113" pin diameter, .305" head diameter, and .165 neckdown to clear the cups. Any input on these measurements to double check my math?

[rob_b]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

8.75 is great hex to hex for a 2.2 I think. My bone estimation was only .03" off if you add the extra width, so everything seems to be lining up. I measured the short side stockers as 3.331" so that should be the discrepancy. They will be about .75" wider than axials, but some negative offset wheels could bring em in with no trouble and we could still have room to push them out for a 14" WB rig too.


If everything seems good I will have some 1.267" bones made up to match. My measurements are .113" pin diameter, .305" head diameter, and .165 neckdown to clear the cups. Any input on these measurements to double check my math?

Looks good to me. PM yota about the lockouts, I think he placed the order today.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Cool, just sent in the order for the shafts. Gonna do a run of 10 or 20 depending on the break that I can get. With two super short sides I could have TF axles 6.6" wide

[rob_b]

Sweet, I was not really looking forward to having to cut down a stock shaft. Thanks JRH

[yotachump]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

If everything seems good I will have some 1.267" bones made up to match. My measurements are .113" pin diameter, .305" head diameter, and .165 neckdown to clear the cups. Any input on these measurements to double check my math?

I got .114" for the pin, I measured 3 brand new bones

[blue-beard]

I measured my kyosho pins at 0.114". I'd say go a bit bigger than stock if you can, it will take some slack out of the drivetrain. The pins on my duratrax bones are 0.117 and they fit nice.