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Thread: another 2.2 twin force axle rig

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Old 04-09-2011, 06:12 PM   #101
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i like it. its pretty sweet that you can control that high powered brushless system at such a slow speed too.
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:05 AM   #102
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Default 6s carnage report on the twin axles

ok the best way i can describe this one, is have any of you got one of your tires wrapped around a root at full throttle and it brings that tire to an abrupt stop? this happened 4 times with a root about the size of your little finger and on the fourth time, snap!


ok the last one i don't think i can call it broke, but what happened after i got it home and checked it out was the two plastic screws that hold my pinion bearings tight had backed out. this caused the pinion and ring gear to deflect and the rear end started slipping the gears ( it makes a cool noise). so my plan is to replace the gears and replace the two plastic screws with 3mm bolts and nylocks. we'll see if that will hold it!
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Old 04-12-2011, 04:49 AM   #103
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OOOOHHHHH...............

That Sucks!!!!!

Oh Man That's a custom part isn't it?


V8
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Old 04-12-2011, 05:48 AM   #104
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Well, if there's a weak link, you'll find it Maybe try the loctite that Steve mentioned next time. Looks like the heat from brazing/silver soldering, weakened the shaft. I have long screws and nuts on all my pinions.
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Old 04-12-2011, 06:30 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v84x4 View Post
OOOOHHHHH...............

That Sucks!!!!!

Oh Man That's a custom part isn't it?


V8
The shaft? Yep.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart bender View Post
Well, if there's a weak link, you'll find it Maybe try the loctite that Steve mentioned next time. Looks like the heat from brazing/silver soldering, weakened the shaft. I have long screws and nuts on all my pinions.
The loctite, press fit sleeve and pin method is in the works.
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:08 AM   #106
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looks like a thicker axle may be in order

how do those gears hold up to back lash with all that helical cutting? i have had to shim mins quite a bit to make sure the pinion doesnt start eating the spool.
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:46 AM   #107
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well it's just fun with the trial and error. i have discovered one thing, no matter how a shaft is built its still purdy damn strong.

in this pic if you will look where it broke you can see that some of the hard chrome has been sanded off. when i first built these shafts i sanded the outside of the shafts in the area that i was gonna sleeve them thinking it would make a stronger solder joint. well you can see that this part was just short of getting sleeved and soldered, it just got some hard chrome removed and there for it got weaker.


this pic will show you just how much abuse a cut and sleeved shaft can take. i ran it in the rear of my 9lb rig with my 10t puller on 3s and it never broke, it looks bad but never broke. just a little info on this shaft, this was one i screwed up while trying to cut down. i never actually broke it in the truck.


i think i will take this shaft i found at my lhs and the the good part of whats left of the broke shaft, cut and sleeve them to the right length and keep it as a spare. it may not last but it might help get me through the rest of the day sometime.


this last pic i have the shaft has been sleeved a lot further down and shows no sign of twisting or anything. it was ran in the rear of my rig all day on 6s and survived! the short side in the rear has a long sleeve on it too.


i think i may make a long and a short shaft that will be sleeved the entire length of the shaft with no cuts inside, just pinned on the end and see how it does
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:49 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjderstine View Post
looks like a thicker axle may be in order

how do those gears hold up to back lash with all that helical cutting? i have had to shim mins quite a bit to make sure the pinion doesnt start eating the spool.
they have been doing fine. from what i've read from way back in this section. getting them shimmed right is the most aggravating part. when you do tho, there stout!
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:20 AM   #109
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i just put the old gears back in since they didn't look too bad. id say this will keep the case from deflecting for a while.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:35 AM   #110
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i actually figured out its a lot easier to shim them when using the revo shafts because you are able to drill through the pinion and use the revo set screw bolt thinger.
it makes the shaft sit on the pinion exactly the same way every time you put it on. that way the shims should always line up perfectly.

which shafts are you using?
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:18 PM   #111
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im using mip's. you can use the "revo set screw bolt thinger" on them to, i have just never drilled the pinion for them. i've got em sitting here, just never done it.
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Old 04-20-2011, 05:01 PM   #112
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crawling video clips
3s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UY7AtCYSdwk
6s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6N1XLU6AyQ
black marks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Curp5XkzoXs
more crawling on 3s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRpetnsABeY
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Old 04-20-2011, 05:22 PM   #113
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Im liking the 6s
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:38 PM   #114
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thats look very smooth.

how is the cogging on that huge motor?
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:23 PM   #115
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there is no cogging at all.
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:09 AM   #116
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very cool. my MMM coggs at low speed in my SC truck. its on 4 cells and is 2750 KV. i wonder if that is a programming issue or firmware issue?
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:40 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjderstine View Post
very cool. my MMM coggs at low speed in my SC truck. its on 4 cells and is 2750 KV. i wonder if that is a programming issue or firmware issue?
Probably a motor issue, Is it sensored?
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:47 AM   #118
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Quote:
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Probably a motor issue, Is it sensored?

sure isn't. Castle monster system isn't a sensored system.
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