BLACK 14r

[Soya]

Junk?

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by Soya

Junk?

Yeaup!

Don't be so pruney man. It was more of a common phrase than anything......This thread is about my junk. Gotta work on my junk this weekend. Ya follow me? The Maxx trannies are pretty stout and reliable trannies. They have allot of slack in them and they place the motors up high,which are two BIG downfalls in a comp crawler. I know they can work well in certain rigs and you seem to be happy with yours. They aren't the best when your trying to build a small,compact and yet very strong set up in a comp crawler.

Originally Posted by caesarleigh

1) in your initial mockup pix you had BTA steering,but in your super sized super pix you are clearly running conventional,is this to achieve max. steering lock to lock?

I did run into clearance issues after trimming up my housings and getting all of the steering I got. Mainly with the shocks and links. It's not really been a big issue,so I haven't fooled with it. The rig I want to build for next season,will have BTA though.

Originally Posted by caesarleigh

2)Motors. I am a little fuzzy on what motor you used in the 14R,as you seem to mention several in all the reading I have done here on your threads.I have no preference for brushed or non, but I am leaning towards the HH 10T cobalt puller. JRH says he will get more in next year.Without knowing the final weight(hopefully under 10lbs.),will this will be enough motor for a shafty super in your opinion?

I ran this same 10t puller in the 07 nationals in my 16 pound Twin super. Worked just fine. I did notice a little cooler temps and a bit longer run times in this rig though. It should,it's less than 1/2 the weight. Lighter the better,but the 10t puller will pull a 10-12 pound rig around just fine.

Originally Posted by caesarleigh

3)Batteries. I see you use a single Lipo on the upper links. Could it be mounted over the front axle,or does it not interfere w/articulation?

It could be mounted on the front axle,it'd be a tight fit with my current set up though. On the front links,it's still under the tops of the tires and the little they do weight,it's up front. Plus,it's protected really well against a puncture.

Originally Posted by caesarleigh

4)Battery power. I talked to someone at the local crawl spot & he was running a 7.4 lipo on the axle for motor & an old RX battery(looked like 3 C cells) in the rear for the 333oz servo he had.He did this for max power to his motor.Wondered what you thought of this idea,or do the 11.1 lipos have all the juice required for a powerful motor & 2 hungry servos?

A GOOD lipo will. You'll need a lipo with a 25c rating or higher. I'd recommend either the Poly RC 11.1v 2200mah or the X-Caliber 25C 11.1v 2200mah

Running an RX pack was a real common thing before the Castle BEC came out. High voltage packs cut your BEC in the ESC down a good deal. The only way to get the servo's good power again was either a funky wiring harness or an RX pack. Running a Castle BEC is ALLOT better because it's easy to mount,fully adjustable via the Castle link and you decide how much power your servo's get. They are also,in some cases cheaper than an RX pack and you have one less battery to charge up in order to run.

Running an RX pack can work good,I've run them in the past with great results.

Originally Posted by caesarleigh

5)Electronics. There doesn't appear to be too much room inside a Super Hustler after mounting an HH powerplant on an Axial trans,did you build a little shelf to mount the controller over the receiver in the rear?

Yes,I built a little shelf. I know I've taken a picture of it before,maybe I forgot to post that here in this thread. I'll look for it or take a few tomorrow.

Originally Posted by caesarleigh

6)Are you running weight in your wheels?
Thats all, hopefully that will be enough info to get me deep into trouble this winter while staring at a pile of parts on my workbench(including one of everything from CDW!)

I'm currently running 6 oz. up front and 4 oz. in the rear. I'm getting ready to build me a custom set of wheels at work and I'll probably add a little more weight to them.

Anthony does have some really slick ideas and quality parts.

Originally Posted by caesarleigh

Shaftys rule!

:whittylittlevoice: I know. :wittylittlevoice:

[Reflection]

Here's the pictures of the "shelf" I use for my Mamba Max ESC,Castle BEC and the Spektrum RX. I wanted to fit everything but the servo's and battery in the belly of the Hustler. It was a tight squeeze,but I got it all in there.





It's just a piece of 1/4" delrin. You can see in the 2nd picture where I trimmed out a section to clear the motor. I figured where the motor would sit. I used a 1 1/4" end mill at work and just made one swipe .125 deep. There's plenty of clearance for the motor now,even my big outrunner. If I remember right,the puller would fit without cutting that section out. I wanted the option to run a bigger motor plus have some adjustably. There's just 2 countersunk 3mm bolts holding it to the chassis,you can see them in the 2nd picture as well. I'd have to take the rig apart,but I can get more pictures if you like.

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by caesarleigh

Thanks again,that is a huge help! Pix are worth a 1000 words,that should be enough to get me going. Why Delrin though? Just easier to work with &
had it laying around? I'm thinking it would be a better mounting surface for electronics than say, Aluminum? Also which outrunner did you use,something like the scorpion 3052-8T? How much more power would you say the outrunner has over the cobalt puller(not that I should need THAT much power!)?

Delrin,mainly cause I have a pile of it laying here,it cuts like butter and takes threads easily.

The outrunner I ran in this for a while was a Hyperion 3025-8. I was told that if my cells could deliver,it'd push right at 2 horsepower. The pullers are stout little motors,but not that stout. They've got pleanty of low end grunt,you won't be disapointed. I couldn't tell you the exact difference in power since I don't have anything to really test that myself.

I personally like the 10t pullers better. They'll stay a little cooler under high voltage and in heavier rigs. A 10t is slower than a 7t,but they've got pleanty of speed for a crawler. The slow speed control these pullers provide is SICK!

Originally Posted by caesarleigh

Raptorman,I have more ?s I found the "driveshaft woes" thread where you posted a pic of you 2 Female/1 Male driveshaft setup. I can get a set of 4 off evil bay(much cheaper than LHS) which should give me all the parts I need. My question is, should I go extra beefy w/the steel yokes for the outputs of the tranny & diff pinions? I have Yotas 6 MM outputs for my AX tranny,so I am good at that end. I am assuming I will have to drill the steel yokes like the plastic ones to fit the diff output(pinion), correct?,since the pinions are all 8MM.
PS: on your initial 14R mock up photos, the revos are still stock male/female

Are you running Revo's or Pede's? If your trying to run Pede's,ditch that idea or use them on your 2.2 with the steel Traxxas yokes. No need for any steel yokes with Revo's. The stock Revo yokes are beef.

Do you have metric drills? If so,use a 6mm and drill the flats out of all the yokes. Then,the yokes that will go on the pinion of the axle,use the 8mm and open them up. Anthony's 6mm outputs are already drilled for the Traxxas pins that come with the Revo's. You'll have to drill the pinions on the axles for the pin though. They are case hardened,but they'll drill like butter if you sand the case hardening off only where the hole will be.

There's really no need in doing the 2 female shaft deal with Revo's. You can if you want to though. You'll be hard pressed to twist them. I have twisted a Revo before,but it was an old shaft and I was really pushing my truck that day testing a few things out.