Looking for local SCX6 to take on outdated Clodbuster

[WRXronald]

Originally Posted by ferp420

oh the fake tltan is probably twice the motor the real titan is literally every traxxass branded electronics weather it's a esc servo or motor has gone up in flames and the only brand of electronics that has cought fire in any of my rigs
if I were to plug a battery in to a brand new traxxasssss rtr it would let the magic smoke out instantly

Funny you said this a few days ago just today i went out with the TRX (didn't want to mud up the SCLODX6 as i'm about to be wiring in the brushed G2's and 35T's hopefully by Saturday) and have a mini mud-pit in process heading up into a small pile of somewhat bigger rocks (compared to the beans anyways)....

Handful of times hard thick and deep thru some mud and water trench action and some rock piles and voila.... puffs of smoke and an obnoxious walk back to house cold and wet.

The TITAN 21T is no longer. I mean its been 6yrs (although alot of shelf time) and no telling how much run time i bought it used back in really good shape overall prolly nill on run time before i got it. Overall i actually didn't run it all that much but alot of deep river waters 6yrs ago and then sit sit sit.

You weren't wrong --- so are the brushed "waterproof" motors better and/or different? I mean do they have some kind of coating? not even sure how they could insulate a commutator and brushes.

hmmmm.... i've never once had a brushless motor fail to water. Well.... I did have a micro jet that i converted to tiny brushless outrunner sit up in a tree for about 2.5months and when it came down it still spun, but got extremely hot almost instantly and it was a no go ---- internal resisstance issue i guess on corroded copper wires. But still..... Outrunner Brushless is pretty solid in water as long as you dry it out well when your done.

Maybe brushed is a mistake... then again... at $8 motor replacements.. they're almost completely disposable even 2 at a time. And i have the reverse issue with the brushless system which is that while the motors are entirely waterproof with little effort ---- the Rhino ESC's are not waterproof and i used polyurethane to seal them tight ---- but ya just *never know compared to a promise of IP67 straight from the manufacturer like the 1080 G2's.

tough decision. I'll make it based on slow speed driveablility ultatiemly --- if the big outrunners are that much more torquey and slow speed capable then we keep them. I can't be doing guess-work on the rocks to get moving with this big heavy mother --- either tires are turning and we are moving or re-approach and re-position. But no more throttle punching to rip up a rock hill --- -so it thats what it takes with the 35T's....... scrap it. Maybe i try a couple of 55T's is the 35T's are close with no cigar. But its like what 1500kv-ish vs 1000kv-ish going 35T to 55T. Prolly nothing can compare to big sized outrunners on 350kv. Was just hoping maybe i've fogotten how solid brushed motors in turning crawlers. its been a joy on the TRX4 just setting and forgetting (until today lol).

[WRXronald]

Got the G2's and programmed them to a pistol grip 8ch rx -- -CT01 and CS1800. Decent little LDRC radio system. i REAlLLLY want the on/off drag brake bit to work out and i'm getting cold feet on the rpm of 35T motors..... think its not going to have the low/slow torque i want.

So........ Ordered up a coupe of Surpass Hobby waterproof 540's ---- 80T ---- best estimate i can find is maybe thats 500kv-ish. ?

So if thats not slow enough and torque slow enough in the brushed space --- no where else to go really and then would aqueiesce and keep running the big outrunner / slow 350kv brushless setup and be stuck on drag brake for now.

I think 80T's should do it if the 35's don't. From 80T i can range 6 tooth pinion up to 16 tooth pinion so theres decent room to head up on gear ratio. I"m afraid with 35T motors even the smallest possible 6T pinion won't be slow/torquey enough.

35T's by Saturday eve....

80T's by April 2nd ish....

[ferp420]

I'm running a 35t up front and a 45t in the rear on 40 series tires 7 + but my rig is a feather weight compared to yours but they have plenty of torque and wheel speed for my rig
the way I understand it once you start getting in to the higher turn count motors both rpms and torque drop off the higher they get
if I remember the 35t is the sweet spot for a 3 slot brushed motor but I've been know to remember wrong lol

[WRXronald]

Originally Posted by ferp420

I'm running a 35t up front and a 45t in the rear on 40 series tires 7 + but my rig is a feather weight compared to yours but they have plenty of torque and wheel speed for my rig
the way I understand it once you start getting in to the higher turn count motors both rpms and torque drop off the higher they get
if I remember the 35t is the sweet spot for a 3 slot brushed motor but I've been know to remember wrong lol

Excellent thank you ferp

Only *1 of dang 35T's showed up from Amazon tonight... "delayed" for the other yet i ordered them both at exact same time oh well.

I did wire it up and do some testing just with the motor on the ESC and pistol grip ----- think i'm gonna LOVE IT!!!

on 16Hz PWM setting wow its really smooth, it feels really powerful in the hand too (not that you can tell much from that) but still --- i think there might be the low torque i need. The drag brake function seems like it will work flawlessly if there is enough brake force between the two motors.....

I had such great driving impressions from the big brushless outrunners today foa a short test i began thinking there is NO way i can swap back to brushed.

But the way the brushed motor feels smoother in transition from fwd to brake to reverse etc, and does not hit at all when rolling into drag brake the way an outrunner does ---- i really think 35T and 1080's is gonna be the way to go.

Transmissions are still smooth as butter after running today ---- all super slow but still lots of strain on gears going up and down the rocks with such huge tire diameters.

Also go tthe SCX6 shocks today. HOLY S CRAPPERS battyman they're hu hu hu huge!!!

Love it. Used fresh 60weight in all four corners and surprisingly the spring rates are dang near perfect!! Flexes silky smooth like never has before and of course love the 4mm hardwares upgrade now all around links, shocks, chassis, etc the only 3mm hardware left are fasteners holding the axle cases together, i can live with that.

Qucik 15 sec short comparing the latest 1/8th scale shocks i was running to the new SCX6 alloy bad boys - - about 10mm longer but just SO MUCH THICKER!!

Sorry they're not installed for the driving vid linked, wasn't there yet.

https://youtube.com/shorts/2C4GACep-...WZ7HaoE1EfV3R_

Long form vid crawling around the rocks in the yard again but with the big outrunners and endless low speed torque as needed to clear obstacles and 100% drag brake ---- crawler only mode. Top speed, 0.75mph




After this vid i can see the potential of slow speed torque on the rocks -- the rig can be really good (for me at least). Just switchable drag brake with higher speeds and keep all the torque and we're in business folks.

Right now I couldn't keep up with any other trucks on the trail...... I have to really walk slow for it to keep up with me. :(

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by WRXronald

Also go tthe SCX6 shocks today. HOLY S CRAPPERS battyman they're hu hu hu huge!!!


Qucik 15 sec short comparing the latest 1/8th scale shocks i was running to the new SCX6 alloy bad boys - - about 10mm longer but just SO MUCH THICKER!!


https://youtube.com/shorts/2C4GACep-...WZ7HaoE1EfV3R_
(

that's what I was trying to say at first I was like these aren't that big but once I start working with the parts it's like hot damb these parts are flipping huge

[WRXronald]

yeah they're big and they're squishy nice!! Should be perfect for setting to stiff and carrying a load in the rear. The dang collars are really hard to rotate though


1080 G2's and 'waterproof' brushed 550 35T's are in... First with 12t pinion -- not enough torque.

Then down to the minimum - 6t pinion -- theres the torque i wanted. Def nowhere near what the large brushless outrunners made.

But ALOT better than the small outrunners if i set it on 100% initial start force, 100% punch, and on 2s speed is good for crawling.

Rear motor will bind and stall, wihle front spins -- the nice part about brushed is you can kind of drive though that --- letting the rig to work out where when and how it can find it grip. The motors will turn when they can -- obviously i'm not dead-stalling it endlessly, just a little working it like a typical crawler pro (in my ego anyways).

I can say without the drag brake its real nice to go 'fast' -- and then coast, lol. I was missing that alot, can hit speed bumps now and not fear tiny amounts of air in the front or rear that sets them 'apart'. The big brushless motors demanded to run together and did bad things when one did something different than the other to my transmissions.

Stepping up to 3s is entirely in the cards and should solve most (33% lol) of my rear stall issues --- not that it was bad before although i haven't put it in its toughest situations yet.

I have a good quality pistol radio on order with cruise control, plenty of switches, MIXING (eureka eh) so that i can mix in hopefully 3 different throttle curves as well as mix 2 channels of throttle and then give a higher percentage of power to the rear than the front on one of the switched settings ---- for those rear stall moments. And a vice versa setting for when you just want the front pulling along up the hill and not flip over backwards.

And of course one that is even-stephen front/rear split.

Drag brakes have plenty of power and on 3 switches 0/70%/100% can do the controlled down-hill crawls under load.

Ate thru 2s 10400mah in about 8minutes down to 3.85v per cell. Gonna go 3s on it and will thorttle down for the rocks maybe max 75% throttle settings.

4 x 3s 5200mah (80C) so it will be 3s 20800mah essentially. That should be a 30minute run time or a 45 minute slow crawl time.

Works out to 100% more mah capacity, 33% more voltage, and 60% more discharge density/C rating. Yeah i hope that will suffice! A good bit more weight but i could run 2/2 setups with a mid run lipo swap or i think it can prolly carry them --- def will fit up front and that will increase front end grip. See if the motors can push it all is the question now! How long till they smoke lol

Brushed ate alot of lipo faster than my brushless -- guess i was going faster thru grass and stuff (and didn't notice i had a flat tire --- i'm either leaking slowly on a tube or stem or ?? headscratcher maybe i over deflated it the other day).

Anyways --- I def think i can get used to pistol grip --- i am in REAL CAR mode and loving it alot --- it will nearly entirely PREVENT me from being moving forward and pegging reverse or worse still -- and more possible since there is NO BRAKE from reverse to forward ----- that would eat the rear transmission fast.

Just set the real car mode switch on the handle of the pistol tx and you can hit it intuitively with your side-thumb to get reverse..... theres two switches one is back and forth if you think you'll want to keep reverse or the other switch is press and hold to get reverse (while pull throttle trigger obviously) so either works nicely. There are very similar switches on the new tx i bought as well as two dials which i have some ideas for.

So i did tear out the entire brushless setup before testing - too hard to work around all of two big messes and i want the install clean and DONE. Oh and really liked having the program card for adjustments to modes --- WAYY easier and better and faster than laptop plug-in and configurator etc. I kept the G2's up front so i can access the programming plug from the fender wells w/out removing the body!

Pics and vid soon as weather breaks again --- and truck doesnt.

haha i think its gonna be good to go now for a bit --- but no big mud or water until new Tx arrives and i get the new Rx installed and in a water-proof box.

Then its TO TOWN to see if brushed motors really can be "waterproof" as advertised (by AliExpress nonetheless).

[WRXronald]

Shot a quick night run on the ol' beans... first run of the 1080 G2's....

I think i figured out the difference and why its ok for brushed motors to stall in a hard spot -- but not ok for brushless.

When the brushless stalls in a hard spot --- thats it. Its over. Figure something else out.... but the motor IS NOT going to turn in the direction your trying to go without SIGNIFICANT throttle and likely over-throttling --- either shredding trans or letting loose from the obstacle w/out as much finness as one would like.

With brushed -- with front or rear gets snagged and stalls -- keep on workin it -- no harm no foul it eventually will nice and slowly engage and get grip and go go go pretty smoothly too.

I turned punch down to 1 --- made no difference to how well it can crawl and get the tires going but made it smoother of course to engage and transition etc.

Video up in a bit..... full under lighting red/yellow helps a bit. Those headlamps are dang bright!!!

LINK: https://youtu.be/kiTTML2zxDQ

[ferp420]

I'll bet it's durability goes up considerably might it be as much fun but chasing broken parts is no fun ether

[WRXronald]

Originally Posted by ferp420

I'll bet it's durability goes up considerably might it be as much fun but chasing broken parts is no fun ether

i bet so as well... although no reason it couldn't have last a long time on low and slow big brushless motors as long as i didnt over torque when stuck somewhere OR accidentally plug full throttle from a dead stop.....

But i can't trust my own self sometimes accidents happen so no need its just easier this way. I am tired of transmission rebuilds.

I needed more grease -- trans still don't sound right after that night run, too much metal. I used a syringe to squirt marine grease in each of them and tighten up pinion lash/mesh a bit.

SOOO much smoother now -- sounds and run like it should. Finally happy.

No sitting still -- time for crypto to go full banananaananas.

Here's the price tag for my next build...... could be a bit before it happens but lol the way btc can get going sometimes it could also just be about 4-5weeks away miuhahahha.


Items (25)
$3,683.94
Shipping to ....

$206.99
Discounts
-$12.37
Subtotal
$3,878.56


lmao thats basically a start with "chassis from the ground up" with 7075 VITAVON EVERYTHING AXIAL SCX6 Honcho minus the rear cage, plus a different rear bumper, including MAX5 sensored 12s system and 150kg brushless servo, and portal axle V2's and 2.9's. Maybe i'd do it on 3.8's who even knows why not right lol

Would be siiiiicck!!

Maybe some day.

Then the SCLODX6 retires and goes in a museum somewheres

[ferp420]

oh come on make your own chassis too lol

sounds like a bitchin build

[WRXronald]

ha,

i already made my own chassis, remember.

I don't really have the tools to work integraly with steel, unfortunately. Nor the space to make such a metal cutting trimming and shaving mess.

But if its another stretch i'll have to figure out how to extend the chassis rails at least and driveshafts too.

I figeted more with settings, via installation of another 1080 G2 but this time into the LC70 TRX4.

Wow what a difference maker -- along with the 35T lower geared motor --- now is an OUTSTANDING crawler speed in low gear with a solid top speed in high gear and all tx settings on the CT01 now ----- hint i deplore ALL Traxxas transmitters. The triggers are sticky and make your finger sore over longer periods of time and the servo end ponts setting and programming seems like a real pita.

With the CT01 i have the shifting of low/high and lockers SO much more dialed i now with no working noise behind any of the servos in any positions --- with the Traxxas Tx what a pita is all i can say.

I plan to use the new Tx (Flysky S-G7P and Rx is FS-R7P) with several cool dials to really 'dial' in the SCLODX6 settings. I can put steering no two channels, throttle on two channels, 1 drag brake, 1 real car mode, 1 winch, and 1 plow control channel. Its a cool little radio with all different mixing capabililty to control 4WS, dual motor/tracked vehicle, etc.

One dial is a 5 position ---- and i'm going to put the front throttle on that dial from 20/40/60/80/100% --- this way when the rear gets bogged/stalled and the front is spinning for lack of grip on a steep incline --- just 'dial' back front throttle using that 5 position switch to receive more raw battery power into the rear end to help go up the incline. Brilliant right!?!

Also still LOVE real car mode --- def just hit the button on the tx handle to get reverse is SO nice.

I reduced initial start power to lowest 1 setting and punch to lowest 1 setting. This was OBVIOUS and great in the TRX4 and i guess i didn't realize how jerky it was making the SCLODX6.... i turned those settings same lowest possible start and punch ---- now start up is a REAL slow crawl and to get over obstacle a little more throttle remains nicely slow and controlled.

Def think crawlers are best on 1080 G2 in lowest power and punch settings --- i thought i would need the punch/power etc in the big rig --- but not really at all. Just lean in a bit more and it comes up smooth like butter and crawls very slow.

Hopefully get both rigs out this weekend to someplace decent if weather permits and some solid footage! Right now both are on the CT01 tx until the new Tx comes for the big rig and neither radio is setup to be water proof just yet..... i have a couple of waterproof radio boxes on order.

[WRXronald]

I know i keep saying this but soon as some warmer weather hits -- its up, running, and in its final setup stages.

3s lipos (anywhere from 5200mah light weight setup or up to 20800mah on a tight squeeze three 5200's up front and one in the center section) powering only the main motors and lights, and air compressor when in use. Trying out compressor takes about 30 seconds for one tube to go from flat to full, not too bad i don't think for what it is $5 on Ali!!)

One 2s 5200mah lipo powering the two 5th scale servos and Receiver (only because servos have to get power and signal simultaneiously for them to work properly ). Yep i'm direct driving these big mother servos with 2s 50C lipo no BEC at all. Let the ESC's do all the work on turning the drive motors i think is best setup option. We'll see.

On-board Air-compressor wired up to 12v and water-proof switch installed.

On-board crane mounted to wooden flat bed (just toy grade quality but still looks i don't know what it is i just get a total kick out of it! Looks cool and has twin hand-driven knobs functionality on a swivel)... could see loading of engine blocks, spare axles/parts, large off-road spare tires, whole UTV's, etc. It tucks nicely in next to the compressor when not in use just as a crane should behind the cab. Almost too good i have silly visions how could servo motors be used to turn the two knobs lol --- far fetched for my level of patience most probably. I know theres some finatics on here who would do it why better than i did though.

Tilted fwd the rear SCX6 shocks to get super-squishy and stretchy suspension performance. Can set them back to full up-right for max hauling load capacity for when i plan to load the TRX4 on the back and go rock crawlin'!!

New G7P pistol grip setup and ready to go ---- can reduce front throttle 0-100% on a knob on the fly for when the rear stalls and the front slips / looses girp. Also has push button 4ws options, cruise control, dual rate power modes on a push button, Real-Car mode shift for reverse, adjustable drag brake, separte voltage telemetry for both the servo and the drive motor lipos on the transmitter, signal strength, etc. I love the pistol and Ferp to thank for the convincing there!!

3s power all but eliminates the rear stall topic it seems anyways

Larger 570 motors on order (50t-ish RPM range) i may or may not upgrade to these as necessary for more torque up hills, in mud, snow etc. Need extensive testing first on 550's. Ability to reduce front throttle on the knob helps tremedously as once its reduced the excess power flows to the rear motor and it stops stalling and grips the rig and all four begin working together up extremely steep terrain again nicely. Shouldn't need them, but the option is there if i can get them to fit.

Picked up some side-view mirrors with leds in them, need to install still.

And still waiting on water proof Rx box -- for now its in a rubber glove elevated abo ut 10inches, i'd say highly "splash proof" at least but not ready for a submerge just yet. I want to get into the river up to my drivers chin, on video, this summer.. issue is antenaa length really, we'll see.

G7P camera holder and one-handed drive/steering thingy on order too (G7P has a proprietary camera holder attachment ) but should be able to shoot better vids with the pistol grip this way i'm thinking!!

Only G7P complaint is when i mixed Ch3 into throttle Ch2, it picked up everything nicely EXCEPT idle-up and engine-cut functions.... weird. So Ch3 does not get the Idle up setting carried over from throttle channel 2, leaving the only valid cruise control to be managed thru throttle trim which does map over to the mix Ch3 and pushes both rear and fwd motors together slowly - to crawl along - - and trim is easy to adjust on this Tx so not biggie, but i cant' really get more than a snail speed cruise from trim. From Idle up i could get full adjust in any band i setup. Come on Flysky! Time to produce a firmware adjustment (it is firmware upgardeable at least and thats something they should be able to fix i would think!)

Heres to some quality river terrain or bust.......

[ferp420]

so ya cheaper out and got the 8.4v servos instead of the 16v servos and now you have to run extra batterys bummer drag dude
your Rx should be waterproof from the factory I've never waterproofed a receiver and never had a issue even submerging the rig all the way for minutes at a time but as soon as that receiver goes under you loose signal so I try to mount the receivers as high up in the rig as posable or at least the antenna
can't wait for the new build that thing will be a beast
also can't wait for the creek running vids

ps I know there are no cheap 5th scale servos just have to give you a hard time about something right lol

here's a really old video or my clod swimming and yes those are 7.5 inch 40 series tires on there it still running the same motors escs and still the same receiver the radio it was connected too died along time ago but the gt3c paired to it just fine

https://youtu.be/PpEf76kMZt8?si=ya3dQusc97POFHHs

[WRXronald]

Nice! I will def check this vid out. Lol on theqq 5th scale servos but I don't know why peops don't think there's good solutions for cheap. I paid $28 on Ali and a got 2s capable servo that go 60kg of torque. For $38 you get a 3s version that goes 175kg of torque!!! I just don't think I need it all pretty happy with 60kg's .... had been on 30kgs for yrs with a ton of slop and flex. 5th scale with the stiffer brackets is a huge step up for me

[WRXronald]

I also don't get it about receivers.... water defeats them where I am. I mean get wet and get dry and they work again yeah great they dint burn out but when they are wet they don't work well... or maybe the signals arc on the plug wires but my esc always goes failsafe if ex not waterproof even the stock trx4 did that when I removed rx from.waterproof box... failsafe. Once dry, it worked again. As for the river... it has awesome waterfall steps too!!!!!

[diezel666]

I don't understand how people have forgotten all about water balloons.. Ziptie wires running to receiver into a nice bundle, coat a small ring around them in silicone sealant, push receiver into a water balloon, and use a bit more sealant to seal it all up at the neck of the ballon. Boom bang, water proof.

Axial even did a write up and vid of it... https://www.axialadventure.com/axi-b...-receiver.html

[WRXronald]

Originally Posted by diezel666

I don't understand how people have forgotten all about water balloons.. Ziptie wires running to receiver into a nice bundle, coat a small ring around them in silicone sealant, push receiver into a water balloon, and use a bit more sealant to seal it all up at the neck of the ballon. Boom bang, water proof.

Axial even did a write up and vid of it... https://www.axialadventure.com/axi-b...-receiver.html

uhhh... i thought i invented that -- have you been in my files?

haha just kidding! lol yeah man i've been doing exactly that for YEARS although i haven't used the balloon itself in overa decade.

Since i always have boxes of latex/nitrile gloves around for working in the garage i usually just use the Thumb, if not the whole glove.

Here's my gripe about that process --- i much DISLIKE handling of silicone, it doesn't last forever either, especially river waters, and what about when something is "UP" and you have to track down an issue and you AVOID it like the plague because you remember you have to TEAR apart your silicone'd radio job.

I'm tired of that. This rig is FINALLY built to be much more easily disassembled for maintenance, repairs, utility, and continual improvements.

that means i want unfettered access to a radio box that isn't sealed with any kind of glue (sans for maybe a little blip of polyurethane around the entry/exit slot) i like the polyurethane better it seems stronger than silicone and just as waterproof -- stretch it to peel away the entire glue blot in one fell swoop --- now try doing that with silicone caulk!!

Anyways -- yes for now i'm in a THumb and took a TON of water to the rig today and mud and no issues whatsoever and hosed it down thoroughly to a lickidlty clean state thereafter with it turned on. No issues.

But still -- if its going full UNDER WATER in the river then i needs either the full polyurethane radio or radio box.

Oh by the way 25 minutes ripping around the yard today on 3s, mud, rocks, more rocks, up hills in long grass, more hills, more long grass (the grass is really trying) on full throttle ------- i wanted to presss the batteries.

Monitoring volatage on the servos the direct wire 2s 5200mah 50C lipo dropped as low as 7.4volts under full load of both servos binding at once!!! wow. Thats alot of current draw from just two servos batman. I see why now they are a TON stronger w/out any BEC involved. they by thirsty kiddies for current. Resting voltage after the drive was 8.1volts so very little in terms of overall capacity used which is great news! Assume i can get at least 2-3hrs run time per 5200mah charge, depending on how challenging and how much its pure rock crawling vs yard driving. I tried to turn a bunch and exercise the system.

I didn't get to monitor drive motor 3s voltage while driving because my pin broke off on the telemetry wire. its fixed now But resting voltage came in at 12.06volts ---- not bad for 25minutes hard full throttle --- that was 3s 10400mah.

You see now though why divorcing out 5th scale servos to their own battery makes all the sense ---- massive steering torque as much as the servos can deliver. Massive motor as much as the drive motors can deliver ---- no body is fighting anybody else for voltage anymore.

I found about 85-90% front power setting was great with 100% rear for going up rock inclines in the yard.

I do think i can use a wee bit more torque (for slower control) and power --- so if the 570motors look good and fit -- im going to upgrade to them. I want the hauling power for when i put 11lb TRX4 in the bed and take it crawling on a rescue-type mission!

Oh and diezel -- welcome to the party!! you're late lol! No worry - just in time far as i'm concerned. Sit back and enjoy the show.

sour "diezel" one of my fav flavors btw

Good weather on the docket for early next week -- lfg.

[ferp420]

I've only lost 3 receivers since the 80s and one was cause I over volted it
I've had 2 dead on arrivals and 2 that have crappy range but I've never had one fail from water not even a glitch
I mostly use flysky radios
I haven't had the rigs with the radiolink or dumborc radios out to play submarine yet so I can't really say how they handle the water yet but I'm sure they will be fine too

my first hobby grade RC had the receiver in the balloon I think it was in the instructions I think futaba included it in there kit but I was what 12 lol kinda hard to remember
I do remember riding our bikes to the Novak factory and getting free stickers
Novak and Oakley and someone else would give out stickers to kids who visited sometimes we even got free sunglasses lol

at $28 a servo that's really cheap but I run 50-70k servs on my 1.9s I would want twice that from a 1/5th scale servo probably can't afford one of those but still lol I'll probably spend more on my servo than my motor and esc combined on my scx6

[ferp420]

another submarine vid this time the 10 with flysky receiver

https://youtu.be/I3kZbuP0x7A

[WRXronald]

Originally Posted by ferp420

another submarine vid this time the 10 with flysky receiver

https://youtu.be/I3kZbuP0x7A

lol.... "hey, look over here at these cool bugs walking on water.... oh neat.... now.... wait what was i doing again? hmm m i forget oh well time to go home noting to see here.... i swear i was just here doing something.... wonder why i have this tx thingy in my hands".

Thats taking submerged very seriously!