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Old 01-16-2010, 03:22 AM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2005
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Default The Flea

I gave in and got one yesterday, sadly all the black ones were nabbed up so it is blue only. :p ran it for 2 min then began taking it apart.
I started by getting the electronics and batt off the chassis peeled the front tires back inserted some fishing lead and solder into them and stuck on some beat up lead on the chassis and axle. I then made some spacers the stiffen the chassis back up since I yanked off all the stock bracing that held all the electronics. I angled the shocks back and inward in a attempt to soften the shocks. It now runs springless since I liked the action in droop since the springs were still too stiff. I will be redoing the one on the rear to match the front. Artic is limited to about 2" due to the stock linkages. I forgot to look for ball ends or something to replace the plastic.

Pictured is a bug body I got while at FastTrack (place I got it from) There are quite a few bodies to choose from at this scale but some are a bit too thin, though.

Plans are to find some nicer springs/shocks, lower it a bit more, make custom links and get some more sag or droop into the shocks. And probably some bolt on rings for the wheels if I just don't just buy em from BWD. I will probably end up going with a custom chassis too. But who knows I might slap a plastic body on this and go scale. Should have some sort of indoor course up in a few weeks. Sourcing lumber to build a frame to contain the rocks and other stuff.







So far the only rage things are the small hardware, stiff wires (had a motor wire pop off and it all binds all over) And the typical tranny things. It does not seem to affect my driving but I can feel it when I have the tranny out and rotate a drive shaft. OH and my lack of things to crawl, need to go out with a bucket and get to collecting.
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Old 01-16-2010, 04:59 AM   #2
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Lol it's different from what I have seen but very nice work. I got mine at about 4 7/8 inches wheel base but need to shorten it up. A new chassis is almost a must with these things tho imo. I was thinking of doing what dog did with his new chassis but I don't have any CF and no tools to cut it out with (maybe some alu. might work).
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:19 AM   #3
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Ah,yeah saw his just a while ago. Saw a few out there with a really nice comp look going on. For CF Id just use a jewelers saw or a coping saw with a fine blade. Just tape it up when you cut. I was thinking of some sort of composite plastic. The black stuff I was using is a kydex apparently its really stiff takes servo tape and cuts well. If I go comp I will probably source different materials. A tuber of brass is tempting though. I kinda did my own thing before looking at what others did, a bit counter productive. But the one thing I refuse to do ATM is gut the esc RX Hence why it is on the servo.


One mod I want to do next time I am anywhere near Fast Track is to get some slotcar silicone wire and de-solder everything in this thing and replace all these stiff wires. Tempted to do so on the servo or buy a spare cord and solder it in.

Last edited by Madkoifish; 01-16-2010 at 05:22 AM.
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:02 AM   #4
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Are these bodies still available? WIll you post some pics when you get it mounted

thanx
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Old 01-16-2010, 02:12 PM   #5
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comp crawler isnt complete without a bug body
i used to run the hpi bug body on my ax10 looked great
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:05 AM   #6
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Crap ass token garbage, lost my post to it. So short course
Body: yes it is still available AFAIK along with a few thousand others, well hundred. Just locate a Shop that has hobby grade slotcars not those 1/32 buy it in a box things. But proper slot cars.

Images/updates. Dug out my slot car crap and got to making a pseudo tuber thing. Sorta winged it. It is a prototype and still unfinished. It is a mess of brass tube and solids with some steel (think it is coat hangar of all things) I think the canopy is a bit high and some parts just are not the proper proportions. :O I do need to find some of the HDW on this thing in something other than YUK slotted screws. Got some short Philips but Would love to locate Allen in this m2.5? stuff.


obligatory flex shot


Whole rear end is sorta shrug

full extension. Tempted to put the springs back in but it seems to crawl ok. Exits off obstacles are a bit hairy though.
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:01 PM   #7
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site ate my post.
Dumped this cause of weight and it not fitting anymore.

Other updates, text eaten and lazyness = images only!




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Old 03-07-2010, 09:08 PM   #8
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cool truck. wheres the bug body?
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:09 PM   #9
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can you sell me a set of those extended driving shaft
will paid by paypal
PM me
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:56 AM   #10
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The tuber was cool. Nice work. But I assumed it would be too heavy like you found out.

Do you have the Bug body painted yet? I'd love to see it mounted on this thing.
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:07 PM   #11
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The Bug body is a Parma #875-c clear volkswagen. Fast Track is out at the moment...Slot cars are their business so they will be back in stock soon. I have 4 more on order, so I know they will be ordering more soon. Did I mention soon..LOL
jim
http://www.shopatron.com/products/ca....36168.12525.0

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Old 03-08-2010, 08:13 PM   #12
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Cool looking truck. If I didn't do a scaler(or bought a second micro..who knows) I would have gotten one of those bug bodies, they look great. Where's painted pics of the bug body and what happened, scratched the idea of it?:?
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Old 03-08-2010, 11:05 PM   #13
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Yup, Fast Track had a mess of them a while back. but like much stuff they seem to be out of everything. Not sure if it is a budget thing or just issues with distributors. Been resorting to RC country. Only complaint I would have are the slotcar bodies are not made with RC in mind. They are quite thin. I remember this being a issue with the dragcar crowd cause the bodies at speed would deflect and cause inconsistant or downright dangerous results. (picture a spring steel chassis stuck into the wall by the pits.)

Driveshafts: I suppose I could knock a few off but Im in the US and canada has been a pain to ship too, lacking a star using this borad for this is a no no as well. BUT the things are easy to mod. Just lob off some of the femal end leaving enough on one end to glue in and go to ACE, hobbysote, or other local hardware store locate the hobby metals and go through the pipes. I have seen stainless (bitch to cut) Alum and brass in the right ID. I chuck it into a drill and cut with a razor saw. I do this for the driveshaft too. Then epoxy or superglue it in place after cleaning the cut shaft so the male side does not bind.

I have to make a new one for the front. So maybe I will post a tut or something. If I were to produce these I dunno what to charge, shipping likely would cost more. HAH Good length to shoot for is 3/4" or 20~22mm. Depending on wheelbase. Due to the offset tranny shaft your shaft will compress more on the same side the output.

Body: The bug is on hold. I have toyed with making it into a truggy. BUt I do know I want to bodge together a scaler too. Just not sure if I want to dump more $$ into micros ATM. SO once I decide on a paint idea I will have it sprayed up soon. I am also a bit ehhhh on it since I am using a 14$ dual from harborfreight which is well 14$ so it is a pile of shit. I moved down from seattle and thought I put the airbrush into my GOTTA HAVE box, but it has been missing since october. Not to mention I am way out of practice at painting lexan. Last paintjob (my ax10) was a bit of a dissapointment. I just hope it is the crap brush and finding my badger will solve this.

cant really see it but the mask lines are crap.



Tuber: I mostly dumped it cause of having to change my shock mounts. The weight wasnt too bad but that 5mm of height change in the ESC/RX made a huge diffrence on sidehill. What I really want is some oil or other damping. The springs unload to fast.
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