RCCrawler Forums

JohnRobHolmes · 11-11-2010, 11:50 AM

Great thinking outside the box for your motor

Looks so tiny!

murderface · 11-11-2010, 12:03 PM

what did you do for your links? is that just heat shrink tube over threaded rod?

SpeedyG · 11-11-2010, 12:26 PM

Thanks for the compliments guys...

JRH - I used the smallest outrunner I could find on HobbyKing's site, but I think BuckNaked n Wheelin' used it first...

murderface - I used some bulk threaded rod from my LHS and covered it with HD shrink tube (stuff with the glue inside)... slick on the rocks and really durable too...

Mr. Holmes - question for ya (a little off topic but hey whatever it's my thread) - Are you ever gonna make your world-famous Cobalt Pullers again? Or is my future-built Super gonna have to be powered by a second-best motor?

JohnRobHolmes · 11-11-2010, 12:45 PM

It is taking a while, but I am working on motors worthy of the Puller name again. Using cobalt magnets is expensive, and the advantages are only heat tolerance. The Neodymium magnets can be made stronger, and above 200C is getting silly anyway.

Be sure to post up how the power is on the little outrunner!

SpeedyG · 11-11-2010, 04:04 PM

With the reduction in this tranny, the max speed is a little slower than stock but the torque is incredible!! Super slow control if I want it, but I don't dare power out of a jam anymore because it just pops driveshafts like nothing!

waffelhauz · 11-13-2010, 03:38 PM

Hiya, quick question concerning the motor you istalled on the McRc.

Just what did you do to fasten this onto the tranny? Did you cut and shave the 3 outward spreading brackets off on what looks like the mounting adapter and then screw it in?? Or is there another seperate adapter I can get my hands on?

SpeedyG · 11-21-2010, 10:30 PM

I trimmed off the 3 mounting tabs, then use a small piece of thick paper to make a template of the motors' mount holes, then transferred that onto the tranny plate (with the pinion gear on the motor shaft to get the proper mesh)... like this - motor in place, paper template over shaft - then pinion on shaft - position motor so gears have proper mesh - mark holes with fine tip Sharpie, drill and Voila!!...

This is kinda where the holes ended up...

That was for the long can Turnigy 2000kV inrunner... I drilled holes in the outrunner's base using these holes as a template, then used a tiny finger-drill bit in my drill press to drill the holes to the precise size, then threaded them using a screw left over from the stock brushed motors...

waffelhauz · 11-21-2010, 11:32 PM

And with pictures! Noted on my to do list. Thanks for the insight.

SpeedyG · 11-22-2010, 07:30 AM

Glad I could help...

blackfabguy · 01-16-2011, 09:38 AM

thanks again for the info. if you have this thing apart, you should snap some shots of motor drill/ mounting

jevyguy · 01-24-2011, 12:33 PM

Bringing up this thread I have a question:

I like the wheel speed I have with the stock motor and a 2s battery, but I also want it to go slower with more finess. What brusless motor would you suggest?

SpeedyG · 02-24-2011, 09:44 PM

It's kind of a case of either/or and not both... you can have either speed or you can have slooooowwww finesse - not really both, unless you find a nice tiny 3S-capable ESC and motor... I looked and could not find one...

wilesmugen · 03-06-2011, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpeedyG

Ya dude, she's all HobbyKing aside from the Rx and servos...

motor : http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6312

ESC : http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7189

Battery : http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=9028

Don't forget the programming card for the ESC : http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7187

Hope this helps!

could i get help finding new item numbers for this stuff

Stormin2u · 03-07-2011, 07:39 PM

Great rig you really got out of the box on this one nice work.

SpeedyG · 03-13-2011, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wilesmugen

could i get help finding new item numbers for this stuff

Just click on the links and you'll be right there dude... There's really nothing new about any of these parts...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

Great rig you really got out of the box on this one nice work.

Thanks Stormin... There's more to come...

blasterracer817 · 03-13-2011, 11:28 AM

speedy g, when you click on the link it takes you to hobbyking saying you clicked on a non existent page for the hobbycity pages.

blasterracer817 · 03-13-2011, 12:08 PM

I did some researching and I belive these are the parts he used.
motor
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6312
esc
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=14630
tuning chip
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=14631
I can't find the reciever but im sure any small one decased would sufice.

SpeedyG · 03-13-2011, 12:19 PM

My bad... Apparently HK updated their entire product listing... Here's the list...

Motor : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6312

ESC : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7189

Programming card : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7187

Battery : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9028

SpeedyG · 03-13-2011, 12:44 PM

Did some more moddin to the rig last night... It seems that 80-plus degrees of articulation was too much after all - kept gettin me into trouble! Had to cut it down to 65 or 70 but didn't have any short enough shock bodies around - so I made some!!

Whittled down some 6065 alum rod to .145" OD...

Next, parted off the soon-to-be shock body at .650" long... The original chock bodies were .750" long - I figured a .100" decrease in travel was a good place to start...

Bored it out to .080" ("piston" on shock shaft was .072") to a depth of .550"... Then drilled the shaft hole to .050"...

Original shock bodies had notches in the tops - hacksaw did the trick...

Kinda hard to see here - installed the top cap and used it as an alignment jig to drill the anchor-screw hole thru the end of the shock body...

Finished product! Just had to do it four times...

The difference in overall extended length...

Installed and ready for action... Reduced the overall articulation the amount I wanted... Installed stiffer springs in the front as well...

Just waitin for the snow to melt now so I can try it out on some actual rocks... Works better on the coffee table anyhow...

Next set of mods - Mini QLO tires with BWD wideners! Stay tuned!

bighitbomber1 · 03-13-2011, 01:35 PM

Good job on the bodies mang! Keep up the awsome work you crawler samurai!!

11-11-2010, 11:50 AM	#21
JohnRobHolmes owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down! Posts: 20,290	Great thinking outside the box for your motor Looks so tiny!

11-11-2010, 12:03 PM	#22
murderface Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Grand Rapids Posts: 918	what did you do for your links? is that just heat shrink tube over threaded rod?

11-11-2010, 12:26 PM	#23
SpeedyG Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, CANADA Posts: 226	Thanks for the compliments guys... JRH - I used the smallest outrunner I could find on HobbyKing's site, but I think BuckNaked n Wheelin' used it first... murderface - I used some bulk threaded rod from my LHS and covered it with HD shrink tube (stuff with the glue inside)... slick on the rocks and really durable too... Mr. Holmes - question for ya (a little off topic but hey whatever it's my thread) - Are you ever gonna make your world-famous Cobalt Pullers again? Or is my future-built Super gonna have to be powered by a second-best motor?

11-11-2010, 12:45 PM	#24
JohnRobHolmes owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down! Posts: 20,290	It is taking a while, but I am working on motors worthy of the Puller name again. Using cobalt magnets is expensive, and the advantages are only heat tolerance. The Neodymium magnets can be made stronger, and above 200C is getting silly anyway. Be sure to post up how the power is on the little outrunner!

11-11-2010, 04:04 PM	#25
SpeedyG Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, CANADA Posts: 226	With the reduction in this tranny, the max speed is a little slower than stock but the torque is incredible!! Super slow control if I want it, but I don't dare power out of a jam anymore because it just pops driveshafts like nothing!

11-13-2010, 03:38 PM	#26
waffelhauz Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Canada Posts: 24	Hiya, quick question concerning the motor you istalled on the McRc. Just what did you do to fasten this onto the tranny? Did you cut and shave the 3 outward spreading brackets off on what looks like the mounting adapter and then screw it in?? Or is there another seperate adapter I can get my hands on?

11-21-2010, 10:30 PM	#27
SpeedyG Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, CANADA Posts: 226	I trimmed off the 3 mounting tabs, then use a small piece of thick paper to make a template of the motors' mount holes, then transferred that onto the tranny plate (with the pinion gear on the motor shaft to get the proper mesh)... like this - motor in place, paper template over shaft - then pinion on shaft - position motor so gears have proper mesh - mark holes with fine tip Sharpie, drill and Voila!!... This is kinda where the holes ended up... That was for the long can Turnigy 2000kV inrunner... I drilled holes in the outrunner's base using these holes as a template, then used a tiny finger-drill bit in my drill press to drill the holes to the precise size, then threaded them using a screw left over from the stock brushed motors...

11-21-2010, 11:32 PM	#28
waffelhauz Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Canada Posts: 24	And with pictures! Noted on my to do list. Thanks for the insight.

11-22-2010, 07:30 AM	#29
SpeedyG Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, CANADA Posts: 226	Glad I could help...

01-16-2011, 09:38 AM	#30
blackfabguy Newbie Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: In my tow truck.. Posts: 44	thanks again for the info. if you have this thing apart, you should snap some shots of motor drill/ mounting

Sponsored Links

01-24-2011, 12:33 PM	#31
jevyguy Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 261	Bringing up this thread I have a question: I like the wheel speed I have with the stock motor and a 2s battery, but I also want it to go slower with more finess. What brusless motor would you suggest?

02-24-2011, 09:44 PM	#32
SpeedyG Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, CANADA Posts: 226	It's kind of a case of either/or and not both... you can have either speed or you can have slooooowwww finesse - not really both, unless you find a nice tiny 3S-capable ESC and motor... I looked and could not find one...

03-07-2011, 07:39 PM	#34
Stormin2u I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2007 Location: Taylors Falls just hanging with the MNRCRC crew. Posts: 7,843	Great rig you really got out of the box on this one nice work.

03-13-2011, 11:28 AM	#36
blasterracer817 Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Caledonia Posts: 29	speedy g, when you click on the link it takes you to hobbyking saying you clicked on a non existent page for the hobbycity pages.

03-13-2011, 12:08 PM	#37
blasterracer817 Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Caledonia Posts: 29	I did some researching and I belive these are the parts he used. motor http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6312 esc http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=14630 tuning chip http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=14631 I can't find the reciever but im sure any small one decased would sufice.

03-13-2011, 12:19 PM	#38
SpeedyG Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, CANADA Posts: 226	My bad... Apparently HK updated their entire product listing... Here's the list... Motor : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6312 ESC : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7189 Programming card : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7187 Battery : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9028

03-13-2011, 12:44 PM	#39
SpeedyG Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, CANADA Posts: 226	Did some more moddin to the rig last night... It seems that 80-plus degrees of articulation was too much after all - kept gettin me into trouble! Had to cut it down to 65 or 70 but didn't have any short enough shock bodies around - so I made some!! Whittled down some 6065 alum rod to .145" OD... Next, parted off the soon-to-be shock body at .650" long... The original chock bodies were .750" long - I figured a .100" decrease in travel was a good place to start... Bored it out to .080" ("piston" on shock shaft was .072") to a depth of .550"... Then drilled the shaft hole to .050"... Original shock bodies had notches in the tops - hacksaw did the trick... Kinda hard to see here - installed the top cap and used it as an alignment jig to drill the anchor-screw hole thru the end of the shock body... Finished product! Just had to do it four times... The difference in overall extended length... Installed and ready for action... Reduced the overall articulation the amount I wanted... Installed stiffer springs in the front as well... Just waitin for the snow to melt now so I can try it out on some actual rocks... Works better on the coffee table anyhow... Next set of mods - Mini QLO tires with BWD wideners! Stay tuned!

03-13-2011, 01:35 PM	#40
bighitbomber1 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Red Deer,Alberta Posts: 174	Good job on the bodies mang! Keep up the awsome work you crawler samurai!!

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