Vac forming over die cast model?

[hard_rock]

Hey Guys

I was just looking at this thread BNR Turtle Back Hummer

Is that how this body was made? I have a die cast body that I can currently put on my micro but its super heavy (its more realistic but doesn't perform well) and I was wondering if anyone here has ever vacuum formed over a die cast model before

Thought it would be a great way to get a super light body but keep the scale look

[spoo76]

I would think the diecast would hold to much heat but just try it and find out.
If it does stay to hot then make a mold of the body

[Jamus]

I have messed around with vacuum forming over top of styrene static model bodies with not problems so a metal body should holf up even better. The plastic sheet gets warm, but not crazy hot.

[spoo76]

Originally Posted by Jamus

I have messed around with vacuum forming over top of styrene static model bodies with not problems so a metal body should holf up even better. The plastic sheet gets warm, but not crazy hot.

Hmm, good to know. You never had any problems with the static model bodies meltng or warping? I have a body i'd love to use for a scaler but want a lexan copy as they don't make them anymore and are very hard to find

[whiplash]

what if you put the metal body in the freezer for a few hours before the vac ?

[Dogbreath]

Lexan or PTEG that is hot enough to form (365-380 degrees) is plenty warm enought to warp styrene plastic model bodies....and it isn't just as easy as forming over a diecast body. The body must be prepped as a mold first, this usually entails filling it with plaster or clay and molding the bottom edges out and away from the body....any undercuts in the body and this includes fenders, windows, and any bumpers, have to be smoothed and shaped so that the molded body will slide off the mold....I have had simple window lines stick a body to the mold

[murdock]

Originally Posted by Dogbreath

Lexan or PTEG that is hot enough to form (365-380 degrees) is plenty warm enought to warp styrene plastic model bodies....and it isn't just as easy as forming over a diecast body. The body must be prepped as a mold first, this usually entails filling it with plaster or clay and molding the bottom edges out and away from the body....any undercuts in the body and this includes fenders, windows, and any bumpers, have to be smoothed and shaped so that the molded body will slide off the mold....I have had simple window lines stick a body to the mold

x2 i totally wasn't thinking about having to fill in wheel wells ect.

[Jamus]

I used styrene and it didn't work very well, mainly due to the wheel openings like mentioned. It didn't harm the static body though. Perhaps lexan and PETG requires more heat than styrene?