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02-22-2011, 08:09 PM
| #1 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 239
|  Lots of heat, normal?
I just got my Losi 7.4v 300mAh 2s 15c Lipo and have been having problems with the motor and maybe the ESC heating up. After running it for short periods of time the motor gets really warm and sometime it automatically shuts off(I'm assuming this is because of the heat). Is that normal?
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02-22-2011, 08:17 PM
| #2 |
| I joined the Band! Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: norfolk
Posts: 705
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Make sure those WORM GEARS are Greased  |
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02-22-2011, 08:19 PM
| #3 |
| I joined the Band! Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: norfolk
Posts: 705
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Worm gears will cause a lot of heat when not greased on a regular basis which causes stress on everything else |
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02-22-2011, 08:19 PM
| #4 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 239
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In the axles?
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02-22-2011, 08:41 PM
| #5 |
| I joined the Band! Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: norfolk
Posts: 705
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Yup! |
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02-23-2011, 12:40 AM
| #6 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Woodstock
Posts: 100
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Lol, yeah everything will get hot quickly without proper lube on the gears, i use 3-in-1 for the transfer case and Lucas Oil Diff Oil for the worm gears, haven't really had any binding issues or ESC problems |
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02-23-2011, 06:08 AM
| #7 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 239
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I have the Lucas diff oil, but what is the 3-in-1?
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02-23-2011, 01:23 PM
| #8 |
| Quarry Creeper  Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Princeton Mass
Posts: 272
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Mine did that too. The motor smelt like it was burning up, and was to hot to touch after 2 or 3 mins. My problem was the slipper clutch, it started slipping and it caused the motor to get real hot. I tightened it and my heat problem went away.
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02-23-2011, 02:09 PM
| #9 | |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Woodstock
Posts: 100
| Quote:
, you can get it at ace. its a little more runny than the diff lube. usually it will drain out the bottom of my T-case, so i'll mix some lithium grease in with it. give it a shot, works great  | |
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02-23-2011, 03:01 PM
| #10 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Canal Winchester
Posts: 2
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I had the same issue and could not figure out for the life of me why.... I ended up figuring out that I had the wheel nuts way too tight and was causing.
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02-23-2011, 03:12 PM
| #11 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 239
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I'm going to spend a lot of time working on proper gear mesh in the trans and probably getting some grease/oil in there tonight. I'm thinking when I installed the HR Aluminum trans case and BB motor I didn't do a good job of getting the gears to mesh properly. Then I'll move onto the worm gears and wheel nuts. I've been wanting to get metal wheel nuts instead of the crappy plastic ones. Anyone know where I'd find some? |
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02-23-2011, 04:50 PM
| #12 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Canal Winchester
Posts: 2
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I can't remember off the top of my head if they have them but id say check thetoyz.com
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02-23-2011, 04:51 PM
| #13 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Princeton Mass
Posts: 272
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They are the same ones that bolt on the upper links to the chassis, M2 is the size I believe. My lhs had them by losi and cheaper packs of 10 no name ones.
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02-23-2011, 05:34 PM
| #14 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 239
| Quote:
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02-23-2011, 05:47 PM
| #15 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: houston
Posts: 650
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If you are running a stock bb V2 motor, they get HOT! They are wound much different than the stock motor (34t bb v2, vs. 57t stock motor) so it creates a lot more heat. Not to say you dont have something binding, better to check everything than be sorry, but that motor does run a lot hotter than the stocker. |
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02-23-2011, 05:52 PM
| #16 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 239
| Quote:
 I can see why that might be a problem though. This thing is stupid fast.. Do our electronics have a heat sensor in them? That is why it sometimes shuts down right? Last edited by StreetKill831; 02-23-2011 at 05:55 PM. | |
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02-23-2011, 06:04 PM
| #17 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: houston
Posts: 650
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Not sure about the heat sensor, but I think it is more of an overload shut down. The lower turn motors dont like low end, they are made for higher RPM's, so they are putting a lot of load on your electronics at slow speeds. The motor winds are very similar to gear reduction (1) the higher turns are similar to having a higher gear ratio (ex. 280:1). It gives you a ton more strength with much less effort, but a slower speed (2) the lower turns are like a lower gear ratio (ex. 5:1) you get a lot more speed but it is harder to turn when there is a load, thus creating a lot of strain and heat, but can reach higher speeds. Hope that made sense, I am no electtronics wizard!  |
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02-23-2011, 07:12 PM
| #18 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 239
| Quote:
Interesting. | |
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02-23-2011, 07:46 PM
| #19 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 239
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Worked on the gear mesh and got some grease in there. Ended up using some airsoft gearbox grease I had lying around, worked out really well. Got rid of a lot of the binding. Also loosened each wheel nut about half a turn, this also helped quite a bit. What's the easiest way to grease/oil the worm gears in the axles? |
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02-24-2011, 12:10 AM
| #20 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Woodstock
Posts: 100
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crack the case open slightly and just fill'er up, it usually gets pretty messy, but after the bolts/screws are seated again, it holds the oil real well
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