Newbie Here..How to perform Droop Mod? Thanks!

[StickyWheels]

Hi Guys,

I just got my Micro Crawler, and have read a ton about folks doing the droop mod. I have read and searched but still do not have a clear idea how to get this done? Please bear with me as this is my very first crawler.

I understand that you will have to remove all 4 springs from the stock shocks. But I am not sure how to go about with the next steps?

I have read that some purchase the Losi Micro-T springs to install as the next step. Which do I get?

Atomic TL013 Micro-T Option Short Spring Rear

OR

Atomic TL014 Micro-T Option Spring Front?

I have even read some people just use rubber bands instead.....but also have no idea how to do this. May have to go this route as the springs above are out of stock.

I read that for a droop setup, using the mini Crawler as an example, people use the small spring found inside pens to install inside the shock itself, BUT when I see the droop setup pictures of the Micro Crawler on this forum, I see the colored springs being installed ouside..isnt this just like the stock spring setup than?

Is there anywhere I can see a step by step picture droop setup for the Micro Crawler? Or, if not possible, can someone give me a set of detailed instructions for a newbie who really wants to learn? Thank you so very much!

[Rockfrog]

Just grab a set of the LOSI Micro-T/B/DT rear spring sets, it will have the red and white springs (we've found to work best). You'll need to remove the top eye of the shock (you'll need a micro phillips) and replace the spring. I don't know about the Atomic springs but you'll want micro-T long rear springs.
Once the shocks are back in place (put the larger shock body to the bottom), a small drop of CA glue to the shaft eye end of the shock will keep it in place when the axle drops. You can also play with CA'ing both spring ends to control droop as well (what I did). Also to further tuning you can stretch the springs if you want to gain differed ride heights.And ther is also the no springs whatsoever school ... choose your flavour.

[StickyWheels]

Originally Posted by Rockfrog

Just grab a set of the LOSI Micro-T/B/DT rear spring sets, it will have the red and white springs (we've found to work best). You'll need to remove the top eye of the shock (you'll need a micro phillips) and replace the spring. I don't know about the Atomic springs but you'll want micro-T long rear springs.
Once the shocks are back in place (put the larger shock body to the bottom), a small drop of CA glue to the shaft eye end of the shock will keep it in place when the axle drops. You can also play with CA'ing both spring ends to control droop as well (what I did). Also to further tuning you can stretch the springs if you want to gain differed ride heights.And ther is also the no springs whatsoever school ... choose your flavour.

Thanks for your reply.

Just a couple of quick questions to what your great info:

1) What do you mean by "Put the larger shock body to the bottom"?
2) What do you mean by "Play with CA'ing both spring ends to control droop"?

Will it be too much trouble to ask if you could post some closeup pics of your setup? I am in no rush, so if you have time in the next few days, it would be a great help for me.

Regarding the springs purchase, I could not find any site online that had the red and white springs...

Thanks so much for all your help. I am very excited to get into this!

[Rockfrog]

click the 'Micro Rock Crawler' in my sig ... it's a link to my Micro build. should be some pics shoiweing the shocks ...
1. just install then 'upside down' from stock

2. CyanoAcrylate glue, or crazy glue to stick the spring end to the shock.

You won't find the springs by color just search for Losi Micro springs .... it'll be a set of rear Micro-T/B/DT springs you want. Come with 6 springs ... 2 blue (firm), 2 red (medium), 2 white (soft).
Edit - this set - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB1601

[DANALLY]

If you are going to attach the spring with glue at each side of the shock make sure you are adding weight to the tires. Without it my rig didn't articulate.

If you leave the springs out all-together the rig is a little squirly but you will get a good idea on what to expect. Having the springs attached help with body roll especially on side hilling.

I just use the stock springs, cut off about 1/4" with wire cutters, and then wrap the spring ends around the plastic eye section of the shock body at each end. If you want I can post a pic.

[StickyWheels]

Originally Posted by DANALLY

I just use the stock springs, cut off about 1/4" with wire cutters, and then wrap the spring ends around the plastic eye section of the shock body at each end. If you want I can post a pic.

Thanks so far for all the great info.

RockFrog, I did manage to find the springs and purchased them .

Danally, could I trouble you to post closeup pics of your shock setup? Thx. I would like to see the cut spring setup and how you wrap the ends.

[StickyWheels]

Thanks Guys for the Replies.

Danally, could you post some close-up pics of the shock with the spring mod? Thanks!

[StickyWheels]

Originally Posted by Rockfrog

click the 'Micro Rock Crawler' in my sig ... it's a link to my Micro build. should be some pics shoiweing the shocks ...
1. just install then 'upside down' from stock

I know that many folks have broken their shocks trying to remove it to perform droop, and it has been suggested to just unscrew the screw at the top end to remove the spring. However, to install the shocks upside down, won't the shocks at both ends have to be detached from the balls? If so, what's the correct procedure to prevent shock breakage when attempting to insatll shocks upside down? Do we invert all the shocks both front and back?

Btw, what's the added benefit for installing the shocks upside down?

Thx for any clarity!

[Elastokinematic]

I believe that the point is to move COG lower. Im not completely sold on this tho. I dont think that the shocks are heavy enough to influence the COG that much, but every little bit helps I guess.

As far as breaking the shock itself...its gonna happen. I have broken 2 since in the year I have been tinkering with the micro and that was in the beginning. I suggest you purchase a new set anyways cuz you will break one. There are some mods out there that use finish nails.

Another thing...when installing the little set screw..dont overtighten. Strips easily..

Just remove the complete shock assembly from the chassis. leave the balls on the shock. 99% of folks break the shock trying to use plyers to remove shock from ball/chassis.

[8695Beaters]

Unscrew the ballstuds instead of trying to remove the shocks from the balls. I don't bother with trying to remove the balls unless I've got a broken shock because you will usually break the shock in the process. I can't think of any reason you would flip the shocks. They're just air filled, so they work the same upside down or right side up. I use XMODS springs on my crawler and the shocks need to be the right way up for the spring to sit properly.

[StickyWheels]

Thanks again for your great advise!

So, for doing any mods to the shocks, this is what I have gathered so far:

1) If I want to just remove the springs from the shocks, the simplest and safest way would be to just unscrew the tiny screw at the top of the shock so that the top can be pulled off.

2) If I want to detach the shock from the top frame hole, the best way would be to just unscrew the ball stud. This way, the detached shock will still have the ball stud attached to it. However, since the bottom ball stud cannot be unscrewed, this means that the shock will still be attached at the bottom.

Question:

I was kinda interested in maybe upgrading to the TMC buggy chassis, and see that the shocks have to be removed from thetop ball studs so that they can be re-attached to the TMC Buggy chassis ball studs which are located much closer together at the top...how is this possible if what you guys say is true? That the shocks will break if you attempt to remove it from the ball studs? I see in a picture build thread in the link below that the person somehow managed to remove the shocks from the original frame ball studs...do you think he had to buy all 4 new replacement shocks in order to upgrade to the TMC Buggy chassis?


See pictures in Post #52 in link below(7 picture from the top of post #52):
crawlerx.net TMC buggy chassis kit

[StickyWheels]

Update to my recent post above.

I just found out that the shocks do not need to be removed from the ball studs....just unscrew the top ball studs and re-attach the ball studs with the top of the shock still attached to the new frame locations.

[8695Beaters]

Originally Posted by StickyWheels

Thanks again for your great advise!

So, for doing any mods to the shocks, this is what I have gathered so far:

1) If I want to just remove the springs from the shocks, the simplest and safest way would be to just unscrew the tiny screw at the top of the shock so that the top can be pulled off.

2) If I want to detach the shock from the top frame hole, the best way would be to just unscrew the ball stud. This way, the detached shock will still have the ball stud attached to it. However, since the bottom ball stud cannot be unscrewed, this means that the shock will still be attached at the bottom.

Question:

I was kinda interested in maybe upgrading to the TMC buggy chassis, and see that the shocks have to be removed from thetop ball studs so that they can be re-attached to the TMC Buggy chassis ball studs which are located much closer together at the top...how is this possible if what you guys say is true? That the shocks will break if you attempt to remove it from the ball studs? I see in a picture build thread in the link below that the person somehow managed to remove the shocks from the original frame ball studs...do you think he had to buy all 4 new replacement shocks in order to upgrade to the TMC Buggy chassis?


See pictures in Post #52 in link below(7 picture from the top of post #52):
crawlerx.net TMC buggy chassis kit

1) The ONLY way to remove the springs properly is to unscrew the top screw with the small Phillips head. That's how it was designed to work.

2) Both ball studs unscrew from the chassis. It requires a really small allen key, but they unscrew from both ends. All ballstuds are removable from the chassis.

[Elastokinematic]

you dont even have to remove the ball stud. you can get a screwdriver in there and unscrew the upper mount and do what you need to do and reinstall it. you dont NEED to remove any ball studs.

[StickyWheels]

Yup..I do agree. You are all correct Took out all the springs just by using a really tiny phillips to the screw at the top of the shocks. Thanks!

Btw, thanks for the tip that both ball studs can be removed easily. I could remove the top one, but was not sure how to remove the bottom one as it is not held by a not bolt like the top one. I guess the tiny allen key can be used to remove the bottom ball stud.

[Rockfrog]

Glad you got it figured out ... tried to get pics up last night but the site was under maintenance.