Links, will M2 threaded rod work with Mini T ball ends?

[89redranger]

I just got my ball ends, tubing, and a bunch of other parts for the Trail Trekker project. Somehow I forgot to order 2-56 threaded rod, but I have a bunch of M2 threaded rod I've been saving for a while. Will the M2 be too small and slip out of the ball ends, or do I need to go ahead and buy 2-56?

There is only a difference of like 1/10th of a millimeter difference between them, but I don't want to deal with stripped out ball ends.

[Intashu]

at that point i justify gorilla super glue or Epoxy. :P

[Mastah Kyler]

Shouldn't be an issue. The 2-56 is a bit of a tight fit

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by Intashu

at that point i justify gorilla super glue or Epoxy. :P

No Gorilla Glue, Super Glue, or epoxy on this build. I don't even get to touch the damn thing till Christmas. I have time to fix my error before Christmas, but I need to know if I'm gonna run into problems. Losi uses metric parts on all their stock rigs, I'm almost positive that the M2 is the "correct" size for the ball ends, but everybody uses 2-56 as it's easier to find and a better bite on the plastic. BTW-Hobby Lobby for the M2 rod if anyone is interested.

Bad news is, if I use my M2 rod I will have to buy different tubing to cover my links. The M2 is small enough it just flops around inside the aluminum. Not a big deal to most, but it bugs me. I think I'll check out the carbon tubes the LHS carries. They have carbon tubes down to 3mm OD! Should make for some sick links, even though they've been done before...

[Mastah Kyler]

i just made my aluminum link covers by tightening down the ends a bit more so it sandwiches them in place

[dezfan]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

No Gorilla Glue, Super Glue, or epoxy on this build. I don't even get to touch the damn thing till Christmas. I have time to fix my error before Christmas, but I need to know if I'm gonna run into problems. Losi uses metric parts on all their stock rigs, I'm almost positive that the M2 is the "correct" size for the ball ends, but everybody uses 2-56 as it's easier to find and a better bite on the plastic. BTW-Hobby Lobby for the M2 rod if anyone is interested.

Bad news is, if I use my M2 rod I will have to buy different tubing to cover my links. The M2 is small enough it just flops around inside the aluminum. Not a big deal to most, but it bugs me. I think I'll check out the carbon tubes the LHS carries. They have carbon tubes down to 3mm OD! Should make for some sick links, even though they've been done before...

Cover that 2mm rod with some heat shrink and it will help keep the sleeve from fitting so poorly.

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by Mastah Kyler

i just made my aluminum link covers by tightening down the ends a bit more so it sandwiches them in place

I may end up doing that too. Are you using 1/8" tube for your links? 0.014" wall? I got the stuff I have out of a K&S rack at the LHS. I know it'll work, I'm just anal. I also have 2 3/32" sticks of brass tube, thought about doing up some bumpers and stuff but I need the truck to mock them up on first...

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by dezfan

Cover that 2mm rod with some heat shrink and it will help keep the sleeve from fitting so poorly.

Damn! In between replies you snuck this in. I never even thought about shrink tube between them. There's the answer!

[Mastah Kyler]

i used 1/8"v .014"

[malofish]

How are you guys cutting and bending yer tubing and rod?

[Mastah Kyler]

you bend after everything is together. then you put a nail or screw into a piece of wood and bend to your desired angle

[elsewhere]

Carbon can chip and scratch.. I'd stick to the alloy or even steel and brass...

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by malofish

How are you guys cutting and bending yer tubing and rod?

I built bent links for my 1/18th MRC a few years back. A lot of guys will use an actual bender, thread the link, and use set screws in the end of them. When I built mine I used M3 threaded rod over aluminum, and used a hole drilled in my desk to bend them.

I'll use the same hole when I bend my new links for this little guy. From bending my M3 links it has a nice radius pressed into the wood, forming a perfect curve to bend more things. It doesn't gouge or scratch the aluminum, it doesn't smash the inside of the bend (can't with the threaded rod inside), but if you're not careful you can split the outside of the bend open. For bent links you really don't wanna bend over 45 degrees anyway. This only works if using threaded rod inside.

If you're wanting to bend hollow tube for a micro cage, bumpers, sliders, or something, buy or build a nice bender that'll give you over 90 degrees without damage to the tube!

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by elsewhere

Carbon can chip and scratch.. I'd stick to the alloy or even steel and brass...

You ever owned an 1/18th MRC Pro Roller? I have, they're carbon, and only good for about 2 weeks before I break them at the skid holes (5th chassis replaced by Infectious RC Ti plates). Only reason I'd do carbon links is because this is a micro, and they'd have steel rod inside them. I'm gonna run bent links now anyway, and I can't bend carbon. I've seen guys angle cut the ends of the tube, but I'm not a fan.