Waterproof micros!

[mathcanbefun]

Hey guys, thinking about waterproofing my trail trekker. I didn't see a specific thread and the how to forum is a mess. So Im thinking this can be the official waterproofing help thread.

My questions are this:
1. How do I waterproof my trail trekker? haha

2. Whats better: liquid tape or plasti-dip? and is liquid tape, electrical tape?

3. Im gonna need pictures and detailed writing cause this is my first time
Explanations wouldnt hurt either.
4. Do i really need to put grease in the axels or is just precautionary?

5. people keep saying waterproof the spindle on the steering servo but i have no idea what that is!

Thanks guys!

[spoo76]

Water Proofing Electronics its all the same techniques regardless of scale.
a quick summary of the thread is to use liquid tape or plasti dip only on plastic cases like a servo.if used on bare electronics it traps moisture which can eventually cause failure. for bare electronics like a decased esc use corrosionx or the appropriate potting epoxy. give the thread a read for more info

[JeeperDarren]

4. Do i really need to put grease in the axels or is just precautionary?

Remember, it is not just electronics affected by the water. Any metal parts will not be pleased with meeting water either. Water + bearings = Rusty bearing...

[spoo76]

Originally Posted by JeeperDarren

4. Do i really need to put grease in the axels or is just precautionary?

Remember, it is not just electronics affected by the water. Any metal parts will not be pleased with meeting water either. Water + bearings = Rusty bearing...

yes,but the axles IMO are so small and easy to take apart i wouldn't have a problem taking them apart to clean. marine grease or whatever else the 1/10 guys use might work,but I wonder if it would be so thick it would eat up power and heat up the motor. only one of the gears is metal,i forget but isn't the worm gear plastic? the metal gear also didn't look like steel,so it may corrode but it might not rust. wd40 on the metal parts may help some.

[89redranger]

The worm is steel. The lower 12T ring gear is either brass or bronze. I use red automotive grease in my own rig. Seems good so far. I filled the axles full, mashed them shut, wiped away the excess, ran them, then wiped them down again. Full! With the trans I just put a touch on the gears. The gaping hole in the trans leaves me thinking that dirt will just be attracted and stuck till I feel like cleaning it.

[mathcanbefun]

Thanks man that was a great thread. I just need a video cause I'm not real good at this yet and am on a really low budget.

When I run my micro in water I put it in front of a fan for a while. Do you think this does anything?

Thanks guys!

[mathcanbefun]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

The worm is steel. The lower 12T ring gear is either brass or bronze. I use red automotive grease in my own rig. Seems good so far. I filled the axles full, mashed them shut, wiped away the excess, ran them, then wiped them down again. Full! With the trans I just put a touch on the gears. The gaping hole in the trans leaves me thinking that dirt will just be attracted and stuck till I feel like cleaning it.

What kind of grease? I just bought some dielectric grease by permatex says its tune up grease. Will this work? And where should I use it? I have some plasti-dip coming too.

Thanks guys! (item #22058 Super cheap on eBay)

[89redranger]

Dielectric grease is for electrical connections. It has lubricating properties, but I believe it's too sticky. I've been using plain red automotive wheel bearing grease. Next tear down I'm gonna try the white lithium marine stuff I have. It's waterproof, kinda sticky (helps to keep the grease on the gears, but can't be too sticky or it'll cause drag), doesn't attract dirt near as bad, and it's cheap.

[mathcanbefun]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Dielectric grease is for electrical connections. It has lubricating properties, but I believe it's too sticky. I've been using plain red automotive wheel bearing grease. Next tear down I'm gonna try the white lithium marine stuff I have. It's waterproof, kinda sticky (helps to keep the grease on the gears, but can't be too sticky or it'll cause drag), doesn't attract dirt near as bad, and it's cheap.

How did the wheel bearing grease work? I could have sworn people used dielectric grease for the transmission. I'd really like to only do this once haha

[89redranger]

I've been running the bearing grease in the axles since the first teardown. I have yet to swap it out, and it seems to be doing fine. Soon though, I have to tear it back down. I want to check out the wear on the worm and ring gear then. As far as the trans, dielectric could work very well in the trans. You only want to use a little bit in the trans anyway, and dielectric is sticky enough to stay put. I'll have to try it out next time.

[mathcanbefun]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

I've been running the bearing grease in the axles since the first teardown. I have yet to swap it out, and it seems to be doing fine. Soon though, I have to tear it back down. I want to check out the wear on the worm and ring gear then. As far as the trans, dielectric could work very well in the trans. You only want to use a little bit in the trans anyway, and dielectric is sticky enough to stay put. I'll have to try it out next time.

Ok perfect so I dont actually put the dielectric grease one the gears just the inside of the casing correct?

And what did you do for your servo and esc and battery, elecrtical connections etc...? I have plasti-dip put ive read that people are having trouble because its so thick.

[89redranger]

The grease won't do any good on the sides of the case. Put a blob on the gears and you'll be good.

I actually didn't do anything to the servo. If it pops it's cheap. I just bought my first lot of servos off EBAY for $17. Just gotta stay away from the extended dunkings and they stay pretty dry. If you pull the servo horn off, put a blob of grease on the splines, then re-install the horn it'll push out around the front bearing and keep water out. You can also silicone where the wires go into the case. I personally would put my battery in a balloon with silicone around the wires and shrink tube to keep it tight. The connection between the battery and ESC is low voltage and ought to be good with some dielectric and routine cleanings. The motor connection should be the same.

As far as the ESC, there are a few different ways to go about it. I'm still running mine in the stock box, not waterproofed. I really don't plan on getting this thing in the water, just the snow a little next winter. I may have to do something else with the ESC myself. Right now it serves as a flat surface to mount my winch on...

Honestly, I play with my truck in the dirt a lot. The grease it takes to keep water out attracts a lot of dust. As opposed to dealing with the carnage from that I will deal with a little cleanup (or carnage...) in the rare chance I get it wet. I more wanted my rig to be "water-repellent." Mostly, the open hole in the side of the trans and an open 180 Stroker motor make me want to steer clear of the sticky stuff.

[mathcanbefun]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

The grease won't do any good on the sides of the case. Put a blob on the gears and you'll be good.

I actually didn't do anything to the servo. If it pops it's cheap. I just bought my first lot of servos off EBAY for $17. Just gotta stay away from the extended dunkings and they stay pretty dry. If you pull the servo horn off, put a blob of grease on the splines, then re-install the horn it'll push out around the front bearing and keep water out. You can also silicone where the wires go into the case. I personally would put my battery in a balloon with silicone around the wires and shrink tube to keep it tight. The connection between the battery and ESC is low voltage and ought to be good with some dielectric and routine cleanings. The motor connection should be the same.

As far as the ESC, there are a few different ways to go about it. I'm still running mine in the stock box, not waterproofed. I really don't plan on getting this thing in the water, just the snow a little next winter. I may have to do something else with the ESC myself. Right now it serves as a flat surface to mount my winch on...

Honestly, I play with my truck in the dirt a lot. The grease it takes to keep water out attracts a lot of dust. As opposed to dealing with the carnage from that I will deal with a little cleanup (or carnage...) in the rare chance I get it wet. I more wanted my rig to be "water-repellent." Mostly, the open hole in the side of the trans and an open 180 Stroker motor make me want to steer clear of the sticky stuff.

That makes perfect since in the type of terrain you will be running. I'm running in straight mud, water, wet rocks, incredibly muddy hills and alot of dirt.

And Although I think you're right about the servo (mine has gotten really muddy and pretty much submerged and it's fine so far) but I think I need to waterproof mine cause my track gets nasty and wet, plus I want to the plasti-dip down before I upgrade to a metal gear servo. But I can only find people using plasti-dip for large servos and I'm not sure exactly what to and not to let the plasti-dip cover.

Do you think I could jut plasti-dip my lipos too?

Thanks man you have given me more help in one reply than anyone has on this subject... And I read that entire forum posted above twice!

[mathcanbefun]

Any idea if dielectric grease would work on the axels and or transmission?

[8695Beaters]

No, dielectric grease is wrong for the axles. I've been using Belray waterproof grease in my axles and trans. The thing with the trans is it's open cased, so you can't pack it with grease. it all just pushes out the side onto the motor. Just coat the gear teeth and bearings and that's all you need. For the axles I packed them and they work very well. You can feel the extra drag when you spin the driveshaft by hand, but my truck has been running fine with it (over a year now!). As for the heat...in the axles the grease will pull away heat from the gears, so you will be fine. As for the motor, the extra load is pretty minimal.. Again, you don't create too much drag.

I used dielectric grease in the servo and liquid tape all over the case of the servo. For the ESC I decased the board, taped off the servo plug, and then carefully painted the board, avoiding the bind button and the LEDs. I've dunked it more than once and I've had no problems whatsoever. If you ever need to work on the board, you can scrape away the liquid tape with a knife. I would recommend planning first: re-wire the ESC with better plugs and wires BEFORE you waterproof it. Otherwise Murphy's Law will kick in and on your first outing you'll break a wire at the board.

[Dan@hwff]

I agree about re-wiring the board first. Mine is de-cased and I've run it strait up under water a number of times. Dirty water kills motors though, seal it as well. scotch tape on the vent and some rtv on the back worked for me. Keeps the sand out too.
A little RTV here and there, careful to keep it off rotating parts and gear teeth, keeps my electronics and gear case clean even in mud or sand.

[mathcanbefun]

Do you think i could just plasti-dip my ESC and servo? I've already bought so many different greases and liquid tapes from reading so many forums.
Thanks guys! And sweet looking tires