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Thread: upgrade to make the losi comp rdy

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Old 11-10-2008, 03:49 PM   #1
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Default upgrade to make the losi comp rdy

what exactly should i do to make the losi comp ready.

things i think i should do-

replace the icky shocks i beleave this is a must. i tried to fit my mini lst shocks but they dont line up right and i dont have the parts to make it fit.

re mount the battery to get a lower center of gravity

add front wheel weights

extend the wheel base - i was reading that g made work but i have no idea what those are im a newbie at this guys sorry for wasteing your time lol

and id love to replace the fame with one of the awsome new tube chasis u guys make on here but im torn between which to run.

also shoudl i replace the stock servo>? i have a jp metal gear high torque servo i was planning on useing for a 2.2 one day but havent gotten to that yet.

like i said im a new so if u guys have ideas how to make these work or all ready have forums on here which show how to do it and give a part list id be in your debt. im planning on sarting with the losi 1.9 and then moving up to a 2.2 one day. im going to start reading but i fugred since u guys were so much better at this then i am id ask for help thx in advance
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Old 11-10-2008, 04:03 PM   #2
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Extending the wheelbase would make it ineligble for the 1.9 class. You can make it wider, but you dont want to make it longer. The stock chassis works fine,

I feel my rig is comp ready set up like this:

Droop suspension with 1:10 buggy shocks
Larger tires-RC4WD Outcroppers
Trans flipped to allow the battery on the front links,
ESC on the rear links,
Reciever on top of the battery (actually on a piece of plastic zipped to the chassis above the batt.)
Tower Hobbies TS-35 metal gear servo (not much more power than stock, just won't break)
Losi Mini-Grappler body, not at all needed, my stocker was thrashed.
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Old 11-10-2008, 04:20 PM   #3
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lol thats what i ment i wanted to make it wider >_< sorry im new at this ive been working with trucks and cars for a few years but this is my first crawler. i got tired of breakin parts at high speed im likeing the lower speed atm and i just wanna make this lil guy as capable as it can me thx for the help imma keep on reading
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Old 11-10-2008, 04:37 PM   #4
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you will find tons of info on this site, i know i have. just do the time and it will pay off. welcome and good luck on the modding.
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Old 11-10-2008, 05:18 PM   #5
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My mod's are as follows . Done 4 comps with it so far .

- delete batt tray
- Braced chassis using axial links
- 1000 mah Lipo mounted on servo
- Full size 645mg servo mounted on Axial servo mount .
- ESC mounted on a plastic plate on front 3 link .
- reciever mounted on chassis rear brace
- rear bent 30degree lower links , made from shortened hd Axial links .
- 4 link rear , made from axial links
- 4 link mounted on axial 4 link plates , doubles as weight shelf
- stock shocks relocated to outside of chassis 40 weight oil
- swapped drive lines for protection of splines
- wheels weighted 3 oz each up front , 2 oz in the rear
- both blue compound tire types on stock rim set ups
- memory foams in tires
- chopped and lowered body


This mini does pretty good for its size , even out crawling the odd 2.2 .
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Old 11-10-2008, 06:58 PM   #6
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What are you guys doing with the stock battery? I want to stick with the stock battery, but don't know where to put it.
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Old 11-10-2008, 08:01 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper View Post
What are you guys doing with the stock battery? I want to stick with the stock battery, but don't know where to put it.
Flip the transmission and mount it on the front upper link.
(sorry for the blurry pic, only one I had on hand)
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Old 11-10-2008, 08:25 PM   #8
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im still lost on flipping the tranny i guess i have to keep reading lol ive read all afternoon and i still dont understand the tanny or the bent links and where to get the links lol i guess my search continues!
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Old 11-10-2008, 08:40 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by punkuup5150 View Post
im still lost on flipping the tranny i guess i have to keep reading lol ive read all afternoon and i still dont understand the tanny or the bent links and where to get the links lol i guess my search continues!
Flip isn't really the correct term I guess. You rotate it so that the motor is forward instead of toward the back of the truck. Takes about 5 minutes, you just undo the 8 screws that go into the transmission skid, and slide the drive shafts apart, turn the trans around and put it back together. Flip the reversing switch on the transmitter and you're set.
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Old 11-10-2008, 08:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trike Kid View Post
Flip the transmission and mount it on the front upper link.
(sorry for the blurry pic, only one I had on hand)
I have the ESC mounted on the rear servo mount which prevents me from putting the battery up front. The battery/esc cables aren't long enough. Where is yours mounted? Please post more pics!
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Old 11-10-2008, 09:46 PM   #11
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ok so im guessing flipping the tranny is to bring more weight forward and thus eleminating backwards roll? or at least helpign to prevent it?
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Old 11-10-2008, 09:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punkuup5150 View Post
ok so im guessing flipping the tranny is to bring more weight forward and thus eleminating backwards roll? or at least helpign to prevent it?
The only reason to flip the tranny is to make more room for a battery or whatever on the front upper links.
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Old 11-10-2008, 10:12 PM   #13
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sweet deal i think i might flip my trans tonight
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Old 11-10-2008, 10:18 PM   #14
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sup james... if need any parts i got a crapload of axial links u can cut up... lolz... ill help ya figure the shock thing out...
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Old 11-10-2008, 10:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper View Post
I have the ESC mounted on the rear servo mount which prevents me from putting the battery up front. The battery/esc cables aren't long enough. Where is yours mounted? Please post more pics!
Mine is on the rear links, but I had it on the rear servo plate for a while and this setup reached, you just have to run the battery wire down along side the transmission, or at least that's what I did. I whipped up a couple pieces of styrene to zip tie onto the links to mount everything to. And yes, everything that isn't screwed down on my truck is held with zip ties. I'm far too rough with it for double sided tape.

Here's the current setup


And my old setup with the ESC on the rear axle and the battery on the links. I don't care for the ESC on the rear axle, too vulnerable IMO.

Last edited by Trike Kid; 11-10-2008 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 11-11-2008, 01:15 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper View Post
I have the ESC mounted on the rear servo mount which prevents me from putting the battery up front. The battery/esc cables aren't long enough. Where is yours mounted? Please post more pics!
wires can easily be lengthened (or shortened) with a soldering iron and some wire. make them as long as you need.
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Old 11-11-2008, 02:43 PM   #17
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Talking prob a really stupid question

So i switched motor from front to back. so do i have to switch rear springs? since one is stronger then the other. sorry for such a stupid questions but im new at this.

Thanks
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Old 11-11-2008, 03:01 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by hazardmanlog View Post
So i switched motor from front to back. so do i have to switch rear springs? since one is stronger then the other. sorry for such a stupid questions but im new at this.

Thanks
No, do not move the stiff spring. You also reversed the motor direction, right? That causes the twist to be in the same direction. Stand behind it and blip the throttle forward. Observe which side sinks, it will be the left side if the MRC is moving forward, doesn't matter which direction the motor is sitting.

Last edited by toybuilder; 11-11-2008 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 11-11-2008, 05:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hazardmanlog View Post
So i switched motor from front to back. so do i have to switch rear springs? since one is stronger then the other. sorry for such a stupid questions but im new at this.

Thanks
Torque twist isn't caused by the motor, it's caused by the suspension not being able to overpower the movement caused by the axles resisting being turned by the drive shafts. Your driveshafts still have to spin the same way to move forward = twist in the same direction.
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Old 11-17-2008, 12:06 AM   #20
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What do you have for support on the upper part of the side chassis plates after you removed the stock plastic tray?
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