RCCrawler Forums

Wild Snapper · 12-08-2008, 08:59 PM

Ok so here we go, this chassis is sweet. DNA is a great company to deal with and the mini sling shot is top quality. When I ordered this chassis I thought it would be an easy bolt on, shortly into the build I realized that some significant time would be needed to dial this thing in correctly.
It wasn't rocket science but right of the bat, get the drill ready because the mounting holes are an unusable size (way to small) and the suspension geometry presents a challenge.
Drilling the chassis wasn't a big deal, but again I was expecting a chassis that fit easily with the stock unit. I'm glad it wasn't too easy though as we all know that building and modding is all part of the fun. I am however pointing this out for anyone that is planning to order this and might not have the equipment to be drilling. Just a heads up.
Here are some pics of my build so far. I have many more hours planned ahead to get this thing dialed in perfectly, specifically with the suspension setup. DNA rocks

.

Wild Snapper · 12-08-2008, 09:17 PM

So this is where I need some solid tech advice. Look at these pics, currently this rig has 3 inches...yes 3 inches of clearance. I'm not sure if the links are to long or short (I'm just using the ones that came with the chassis and axial link ends) or if it's just the shocks.
Currently I have some stock size aluminum HR's in the front and some 3 racing MLSTs in the rear. I need to drop this this down big time as it is riding way to tall. If I compress the springs by pushing down on the chassis the the chassis speads out and drops down nice (like how It should be running, which makes me thing the link lengths are fine) but then there is NO articulation at all.
Is this just a shock issues? Anyone know of some shorter shocks that have enough travel to get some articulation out of this chassis (is there a suggested shock by DNA). The other thing is that the axle plates are angled very steep, they are not level or flat at all. Again I don't know if this is from the length of the links, but when I push down on the chassis and compress the shocks the angle of the axle plates stay the same. Any feedback would be helpful. I'm close... but something is off and I know the DNA guys did not design this chassis to sit 3 inches tall. I want this baby low and with good articulation. Thanks guys

eric113 · 12-08-2008, 10:08 PM

I think it shocks, they are too tall. Try getting some mini T shocks. I think that what they running on the DNA mrc.

LetsHandleit · 12-08-2008, 10:09 PM

I would take a look at jootz's link and make the shock adjustment and upper link move to the bottom chassis holes. It looks like the shocks are to long. Will it lower any when the shock springs are at the top of the adjustments? Also how does it sit with the upper links disconnected from the chassis? Something is diffently to long and needs to be shorter.

86jeep · 12-08-2008, 10:34 PM

I like the 55mm shocks for a losi late model car

.

Xtant3150c · 12-08-2008, 11:22 PM

Yah the Losi Mini Late Model shocks would work really good!

This chassis setup is just to sweet!

JOOTZ · 12-09-2008, 09:03 AM

i did use mini-t rears as suggested by DNA, you will have to work on placement of the links on the chassis(vertical 3 hole) and the top shock mount placement to get at a good point of articulation and height. i outbounded my shocks and switched the axle position of the shock and links, that is were the shock eyelet size and ballends came in very well.
i`m glad you started your build thread as we could all use some other point of view. GL

Wild Snapper · 12-09-2008, 12:56 PM

Yes... last night I cut down the length of my springs and the chassis dropped way down, so the length of my shock were definately the issues. The links are the right length and that was not the problem. The shorter shock are now helping the chassis ride at a much more appropriate height, but the shocks now suck because the springs are cut and they can open and are sloppy. Instead of putting limiters in the shocks I have, I will be ordering some mini t shocks and I am going to play around with switching the link and shock mounts on the axle...great tip man. I'll keep everyone posted. Even with the sloppy shortened shock on this thing,n the performance on is a very noticable increase when compare my previously modified stock setup. Thanks for the info everyone.

jehuteh · 12-09-2008, 01:38 PM

i'm still using the stock shocks, i limited them to about half with some fuel tubing and laid the shocks all the way down and it still sits a little high but not as bad. still looking for smaller shocks.

Pdog7 · 12-09-2008, 02:07 PM

How do you like those tires? I was thinking of picking up a set for my mrc.

Wild Snapper · 12-09-2008, 04:57 PM

At this point shorter shocks are a must. What is up with using the rear (longer mini t shocks) in the back. What is the reason for this? someone mentioned that dna suggests using the mini t rears in the back.

Crawl It · 12-09-2008, 05:21 PM

Did you just have to drill the holes for the tranny on the skid?

jehuteh · 12-09-2008, 05:54 PM

those tire are a little too hard for my taste, gonna go with the 1.9 flat irons when they come out. thinking of siping some of the lugsto try to give them more flex and maybe adding some wheel weights first. i have some memory foams in them and still too hard. plus they have way to much side bite for this little bastard.

JOOTZ · 12-09-2008, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Up and over

At this point shorter shocks are a must. What is up with using the rear (longer mini t shocks) in the back. What is the reason for this? someone mentioned that dna suggests using the mini t rears in the back.

when i querried DNA they gave two options, mini lst alu set with the longs in the rear against torque twist so the shorts go to the front, however with this option you have to buy the blue springs for the rears, so i went with option 2 which was mini-t rears all around using the stock black springs from the rear left only for torque twist. to me it seemed a logical take than having to buy extra springs. hope this helps

JOOTZ · 12-09-2008, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jehuteh

those tire are a little too hard for my taste, gonna go with the 1.9 flat irons when they come out. thinking of siping some of the lugsto try to give them more flex and maybe adding some wheel weights first. i have some memory foams in them and still too hard. plus they have way to much side bite for this little bastard.

tried taking the foams out ? see how it goes.

Wild Snapper · 12-09-2008, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crawl It

Did you just have to drill the holes for the tranny on the skid?

No the tranny plate was great, direct fit. I had to drill the chassis plates and axle plates.

JatoTheRipper · 12-09-2008, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Up and over

When I ordered this chassis I thought it would be an easy bolt on, shortly into the build I realized that some significant time would be needed to dial this thing in correctly.
It wasn't rocket science but right of the bat, get the drill ready because the mounting holes are an unusable size (way to small) and the suspension geometry presents a challenge.

It sounds like there are quality control issues. Holes that are too small for the stock hardware? That's inexcusable. I also assumed it was a direct bolt on chassis. It's still awesome, but it sounds like they need to work the bugs out.

86jeep · 12-09-2008, 07:52 PM

Its not a quality control issues thay just made it for 2mm hardware.

Wild Snapper · 12-09-2008, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

It sounds like there are quality control issues. Holes that are too small for the stock hardware? That's inexcusable. I also assumed it was a direct bolt on chassis. It's still awesome, but it sounds like they need to work the bugs out.

The holes do fit the stock bolts, but the stock bolts are the super tiny ones that on the stock setup just thread into plastic pieces and not into any nuts. For this build, specifically for the shocks and links, I needed a little more strength and more importantly a bolt that would actually fit into a nut (that I could actually find and buy at a local store) Because of this I needed to drill holes to fit a slightly larger than stock size bolt. I think the bolts that I choose to use are literally one size larger in diameter than the stocks.
Anyways DNA might want to modify and make these chassis holes a little larger, but in a way this can be a disadvantage depending on what you want to do. It is better to start with more and take away, because it does not work the other way around.
This chassis is definately for people that want a highly modified and costume setup. I understand your point but again I think DNA did an excellent job and nailed it. If one doesn't feel comfortable drilling and building on this level, then this probably isn't the right chassis for them and they might not be looking for high levels of precision and customization. I am OK with taking the time to dial in this crawler just right and in the long run this will be easier than modifying a direct fit chassis with less options. It's all part of the fun.

86jeep · 12-09-2008, 08:18 PM

I got my 2mm hardware from tower hobbies, Just search 2mm

12-08-2008, 08:59 PM	#1
Wild Snapper Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Portland, Maine Posts: 625	Up and over's DNA mini slingshot build Ok so here we go, this chassis is sweet. DNA is a great company to deal with and the mini sling shot is top quality. When I ordered this chassis I thought it would be an easy bolt on, shortly into the build I realized that some significant time would be needed to dial this thing in correctly. It wasn't rocket science but right of the bat, get the drill ready because the mounting holes are an unusable size (way to small) and the suspension geometry presents a challenge. Drilling the chassis wasn't a big deal, but again I was expecting a chassis that fit easily with the stock unit. I'm glad it wasn't too easy though as we all know that building and modding is all part of the fun. I am however pointing this out for anyone that is planning to order this and might not have the equipment to be drilling. Just a heads up. Here are some pics of my build so far. I have many more hours planned ahead to get this thing dialed in perfectly, specifically with the suspension setup. DNA rocks . Attached Images

12-08-2008, 09:17 PM	#2
Wild Snapper Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Portland, Maine Posts: 625	So this is where I need some solid tech advice. Look at these pics, currently this rig has 3 inches...yes 3 inches of clearance. I'm not sure if the links are to long or short (I'm just using the ones that came with the chassis and axial link ends) or if it's just the shocks. Currently I have some stock size aluminum HR's in the front and some 3 racing MLSTs in the rear. I need to drop this this down big time as it is riding way to tall. If I compress the springs by pushing down on the chassis the the chassis speads out and drops down nice (like how It should be running, which makes me thing the link lengths are fine) but then there is NO articulation at all. Is this just a shock issues? Anyone know of some shorter shocks that have enough travel to get some articulation out of this chassis (is there a suggested shock by DNA). The other thing is that the axle plates are angled very steep, they are not level or flat at all. Again I don't know if this is from the length of the links, but when I push down on the chassis and compress the shocks the angle of the axle plates stay the same. Any feedback would be helpful. I'm close... but something is off and I know the DNA guys did not design this chassis to sit 3 inches tall. I want this baby low and with good articulation. Thanks guys Attached Images

12-09-2008, 09:03 AM	#7
JOOTZ RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: never been Posts: 1,317	i did use mini-t rears as suggested by DNA, you will have to work on placement of the links on the chassis(vertical 3 hole) and the top shock mount placement to get at a good point of articulation and height. i outbounded my shocks and switched the axle position of the shock and links, that is were the shock eyelet size and ballends came in very well. i`m glad you started your build thread as we could all use some other point of view. GL Last edited by JOOTZ; 12-09-2008 at 09:05 AM.

12-09-2008, 12:56 PM	#8
Wild Snapper Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Portland, Maine Posts: 625	Yes... last night I cut down the length of my springs and the chassis dropped way down, so the length of my shock were definately the issues. The links are the right length and that was not the problem. The shorter shock are now helping the chassis ride at a much more appropriate height, but the shocks now suck because the springs are cut and they can open and are sloppy. Instead of putting limiters in the shocks I have, I will be ordering some mini t shocks and I am going to play around with switching the link and shock mounts on the axle...great tip man. I'll keep everyone posted. Even with the sloppy shortened shock on this thing,n the performance on is a very noticable increase when compare my previously modified stock setup. Thanks for the info everyone. Last edited by Wild Snapper; 12-09-2008 at 12:59 PM.

12-09-2008, 05:21 PM	#12
Crawl It Newbie Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Rock Falls Posts: 33	Up and over's DNA mini slingshot build Did you just have to drill the holes for the tranny on the skid?

12-08-2008, 10:08 PM	#3
eric113 Moderator Rule Breaker Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Austin, Tx Posts: 5,970	I think it shocks, they are too tall. Try getting some mini T shocks. I think that what they running on the DNA mrc.

12-08-2008, 10:09 PM	#4
LetsHandleit RC Axle Master Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 517	I would take a look at jootz's link and make the shock adjustment and upper link move to the bottom chassis holes. It looks like the shocks are to long. Will it lower any when the shock springs are at the top of the adjustments? Also how does it sit with the upper links disconnected from the chassis? Something is diffently to long and needs to be shorter.

12-08-2008, 10:34 PM	#5
86jeep AKA 2G's Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Where the wind blow's Posts: 750	I like the 55mm shocks for a losi late model car .

12-08-2008, 11:22 PM	#6
Xtant3150c RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: On Da' Shelf Posts: 1,253	Yah the Losi Mini Late Model shocks would work really good! This chassis setup is just to sweet!

12-09-2008, 01:38 PM	#9
jehuteh Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: kirby tx Posts: 75	i'm still using the stock shocks, i limited them to about half with some fuel tubing and laid the shocks all the way down and it still sits a little high but not as bad. still looking for smaller shocks.

12-09-2008, 02:07 PM	#10
Pdog7 TN State Champ 11,12,13 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: KTM Talk.com Posts: 1,796	How do you like those tires? I was thinking of picking up a set for my mrc.

12-09-2008, 04:57 PM	#11
Wild Snapper Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Portland, Maine Posts: 625	At this point shorter shocks are a must. What is up with using the rear (longer mini t shocks) in the back. What is the reason for this? someone mentioned that dna suggests using the mini t rears in the back.

12-09-2008, 05:54 PM	#13
jehuteh Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: kirby tx Posts: 75	those tire are a little too hard for my taste, gonna go with the 1.9 flat irons when they come out. thinking of siping some of the lugsto try to give them more flex and maybe adding some wheel weights first. i have some memory foams in them and still too hard. plus they have way to much side bite for this little bastard. Last edited by jehuteh; 12-09-2008 at 05:57 PM.

12-09-2008, 07:52 PM	#18
86jeep AKA 2G's Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Where the wind blow's Posts: 750	Its not a quality control issues thay just made it for 2mm hardware.

12-09-2008, 08:18 PM	#20
86jeep AKA 2G's Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Where the wind blow's Posts: 750	I got my 2mm hardware from tower hobbies, Just search 2mm

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