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Thread: How to make mrc comp ready

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Old 05-19-2009, 11:01 PM   #1
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Question How to make mrc comp ready

Just got a mrc and want to make it comp ready
What should I look into and what will
Make the biggest improvement? Thanks
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Old 05-20-2009, 12:28 AM   #2
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tires
wheel weight
low cg
practice
getting rid of the torque twist

a few idea off the top of my head, biggest thing is knowing what your rig is capable of. Search around and you can find just about anything on here.
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Old 05-20-2009, 06:41 AM   #3
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If you want to make it comp ready, and also competative heres what you are gonna need.

metal lockers (front/rear/center)
quality shocks (RcBros or Losi, or another quality threaded body alum. shock) and your choice of shock oil, I'd reccomend 50wt.
Wheels and tires. Good, true beadlock wheels, and good tires. (I like the G8 flat irons from proline, others like the losi blue claws or bashers. Your choice really, just check around to make sure you get what you want).
new chassis. (There are so many out there to choose from. Spend some time looking through all the build-ups on here to help you decide what you want.
4 link setup front and rear (some chassis kits come with 4 link plates, some dont. If the chassis you want doesnt come with the 4 link plates then its something your gonna have to get)
servo (Most people seem to be in agreement that the hitch 645 is the way to go)
Electronic Speed Controler (ESC). Most people are using the Tekin FXR or the Tekin B1R. There are lots out there, so read up.
Motor. You can stay with the stocker if you want, its not that bad. For that extra torque tho your gonna want a better motor. Most people will suggest the Holmes Hobbies Mini Torque Master. Its a great motor at a great price.
Wheel weights. Your choice about how much to use here. Try diffrent amounts and see what you like.

Other than those things, its mainly the way you set it up. You can switch to LiPo's if you want. They're great. But for the short amount of time your actually crawling in a comp I dont think it matters.
And you might want to fiddle with the gearing a bit.
Once you get these things, its just a matter of test and tune, and lots of practice.

Guys, did I miss anything?
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:03 AM   #4
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thanks guys sounds good just got to find the stuff and get the money up
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:13 AM   #5
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Another very easy way to find things is usually some will post that they are building a comp rig, so when you see a thread with comp build on it or building comp ready MRC, you may want to look in there.
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Old 05-21-2009, 07:04 PM   #6
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how are you guys mounting the battrey down low?
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Old 05-21-2009, 07:05 PM   #7
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I have mine across the back axle or if you look around i think common sense batters have some you can get them small enough to sit on your 3 link
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Old 05-21-2009, 07:16 PM   #8
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I assume that your starting with a out of the box losi. If so, I'd start by limiting your stocks by at least a 1/4in. Play around with shock oil to find a good feel. Make a upper link mounting plate for your electronics. Get some velcro and mount your battery on top of your servo. If you got a little extra cash go ahead and get some blue labels(claws) and a 645mg servo. For bead locks, do the pvc trick to your wheels and add weight while your there. I did these little tricks and practiced and took 5th place at my first comp. I wouldn't drop a huge load of cash just yet. Get a feel for the truck first.
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Old 06-07-2009, 12:37 PM   #9
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Remove battery tray, mounted speed control on tranny with velcro as low as i could, receicer on front link, battery on rear axle, put on losi blue bashers, add wheel weights, limit shocks and practice. This is what i did for my first comp and took 2nd, the first place guy had bigger tires than the bashers different motor and it was weighted down more than mine, and he had more crawling time under his belt.
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:58 AM   #10
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i agree with zr600, keep it cheap and simple and just drive that way when you find out what you think needs to be better then do that mod. you will enjoy the mod more and then stay in the sport longer too. tires and weight and move stuff around to fit your needs. i am just a basher and love the little MRC along with my others. have fun and challenge yourself
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:50 PM   #11
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lots of recommendations to put the battery over the rear axle... I thought the idea was to get all of the weight you can toward the front... is that not correct for the smaller rigs?
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:03 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rctoyguy View Post
lots of recommendations to put the battery over the rear axle... I thought the idea was to get all of the weight you can toward the front... is that not correct for the smaller rigs?
Yes this is correct, but most are running a small lipo and they weigh next to nothing. I have fully loaded Losi alum. beadlocks with a little extra weight then the bolt on ones up front, no weights in rear, have my BR1 esc up front just above my upper links on the chassis, I have a Holmes Hobbies 1300mah 2cell lipo mounted on the side of chassis opposite of motor to help balance out side to side weight and my rec is on my upper rear link mount. It;s a little front heavy but all the weight is prety low.
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:26 AM   #13
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i went with a with tamiya touring car shocks off an old kit with 50wt oil and no springs. It is a temporary set up but it lowers the CG a whole bunch compared to the stock shocks. Just make shure you have a skid plate on the bottom that slides easily as you will slide on it alot. I to am getting into the sport and some may not agree on my tip but it works for me. Good luck
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:29 AM   #14
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heres my tips!

nice beadlocks
good tires
metal tooth servo
clean stuff

screw everthing else, the MRC comes with great electronics, the servo stock is the only bad part, ive went through 4 so far, but make it as high as u can, if u lower it u cant crawler up stuff for shit LOL its true
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Old 08-08-2009, 02:32 PM   #15
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Hey guys ive done alot of upgrades now.
metal lockers all around
Full droop setup
losi blue claws
full size servo
lipo
added weight


Im going to get my aluminum shocks today
and ill probably get some flat irons soon.
Thanks for all your help guys
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Old 08-08-2009, 05:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowrejects View Post
but make it as high as u can, if u lower it u cant crawler up stuff for shit LOL its true
I dont know so much about that. I run a full drop, my rig sets maybe 1.75 inches off the ground and I dont ever have a problem getting up and over anything, The fact is that my rig set so low to the ground because the weight of the rig forces the shocks into compression. They easily uncompress, and let the axle/tires fall to where they need to be.

Droop rocks. and thats true.
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:45 PM   #17
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Im going to get my aluminum shocks today
and ill probably get some flat irons soon.
Thanks for all your help guys[/QUOTE]

I vote no to the flat Irons if you want to run a taller tire then the blue claws grap some 2.2's and cut and shut em! I switched from FI's to chisels and will never go back to the FI"S
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:55 PM   #18
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I want to cut and shut some tires but I don't want to mess up lol
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Old 08-08-2009, 09:05 PM   #19
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I hear ya! I'm still chicken too! I would try the panther cobras if I was gonna give it a shot! Oh and Gatekeeper runs losi blue claws if that tells ya anything.
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Old 08-08-2009, 09:22 PM   #20
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Does any one know what the best tire for dirt that's loose?? Where I cawler there's alot of it. Also what's the beat way to crawler sideways I always flip mine when I try crawling sideways
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