stock mrc steering travel?

[toyfreak]

what do i need to do to get more steering travel on my stock mrc?
and why am i having a problem with it turning sharper to the right than the left

[NeXt559]

epa's and cvd's for turning a lil sharper. not much though

as for your turning biased to one side try your trim settings and adjust the servo arm

[crawlinlosi]

Originally Posted by NeXt559

epa's and cvd's for turning a lil sharper. not much though

as for your turning biased to one side try your trim settings and adjust the servo arm

x2 on ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[toyfreak]

i have tried adjusting the trim
it simply turns much further to the left than the right....wtf

[soundcolor]

Two diffrent settings.
The knob on the radio labeled "ST. Trimm" is what makes the rig drive in a straight line. Only use it if the truck pulls to the left or right when driving straight.
The knob on the left of the radios steering wheel that is labeled "Steering D/R" is for adjusting the throw of the servo which increases or decreases the turning radius. Basically it allows the servo to push the wheels farther.

If you have cranked this all the way to the "max". and you still want more turning radius then either file or otherwise trim the stock stub shafts (which I dont recommend) or install CVD axles. Also upgrade to a stronger steering servo like a Hitech 645.

If that dont get you where you want to be... Then try getting a zero turning radius lawnmower and converting it to R/C.

[toyfreak]

a longer arm on the steering servo should work it think
can i find one that will work with the servo saver

[soundcolor]

The problem with a longer arm is that getting it long enough to make a diffrence would have it hitting the steering link itself.

[mini max]

try a better servo than stock

[Joat]

cvds and cut about 1/8 to 1/4 of the knuckle where the drag link attaches to,you will need a longer drag link though, cutting stub shafts really wont gain you much and to me is not even worth the effort.

[toyfreak]

what servo should i get that will fit the stock mount

[soundcolor]

Hitech 645

[Failedabortion]

Originally Posted by toyfreak

what servo should i get that will fit the stock mount

Originally Posted by soundcolor

Hitech 645

wont fit the stock mount

[Joat]

Originally Posted by toyfreak

what servo should i get that will fit the stock mount

For the price I would just put a full size servo,but you should add a bec also ,but there's some cheap servo's that have 170oz plus of torque-jpcustoms.com, so servo and castle bec can be had for a little over 40 ,diy drag link and under $20 for cvds and you have more then enough power to turn your wheels and have alot more travel then stock.

[BBinVA]

I would recommend spending the money on a full size servo and new mounting plate just due to the fact that most mini servos have plastic gears inside. I spent a little time with the search function and Google shortly after I got my MRC, the best solution I found was to mount a Hitec 645 on an after market mount or the Losi battery tray / servo mount they they released. This allowed me to get full steering swing and also the piece of mind I would not strip plastic gears. The servos that will fit on the factory mouning bracket have a reputation for stipping the internal plastic gears even under the easiest of crawling conditions. I understand that you are wanting to stay with the factory mount, however I do not understand why. If you could provide a reason for wanting to stay stock then I would say stick with the Losi servo and try adjusting the tension on the servo saver tighter. I almost locked up the servo saver on my sons rig and the steering does turn all the way left and right until you put any stress on the system, then the servo saver kicks in and does it's job.

[toyfreak]

Originally Posted by Joat

For the price I would just put a full size servo,but you should add a bec also ,but there's some cheap servo's that have 170oz plus of torque-jpcustoms.com, so servo and castle bec can be had for a little over 40 ,diy drag link and under $20 for cvds and you have more then enough power to turn your wheels and have alot more travel then stock.

what is a bec?
i put a hitec servo on, it has 133oz, i did half to make a mount
which link is the drag link?
what will the cvd's do? and which ones should i get?

thanks

[HomerJ]

Originally Posted by toyfreak

what is a bec?
i put a hitec servo on, it has 133oz, i did half to make a mount
which link is the drag link?
what will the cvd's do? and which ones should i get?

thanks

A bec or ccbec as it is also called on here, due to Castle Creations having the gold standard in external bec's. Basically it reroutes power away from your bec that is inside your esc. Thus, allowing you to have full power (normally 6.0v, which you set on a PC) to your servo. Most stock bec's are too weak to do this. If you don't have an external bec and are running an upgraded hi torque servo, it will cause all kinds of electric problems till you get the power properly routed.

The drag link is the one from your servo arm to your knuckle. The other link that goes from knuckle to knuckle is called the tie rod.

CVD's are a different style axle/stub shaft combo that allows for a tighter turning radius. They don't have the "dogbone" setup that the stock axles have, but instead the pins on the axle go through a solid stub. They are not nearly as strong as the dogbone setup, but I've yet to have any trouble with my CVD's in my MRC. As for which one to get, that is up to you, I'm having good luck with the Losi CVD's though.