Help me lower my COG

[Weston]

I got my losi today in the mail along with some axial beadloks and proline chisels


My COG seems way to high (bone stock)

I flop way to easialy atleast compared to my 1:1 rig

Was wondering what I should do to lower cog, weights in tires? and such and what to use/ how to go about doing it

[apuinator]

I limited my shocks. This lowers the ride height. Most people also put weights in their front tires also. You should also look to move the stock battery to the front. There are a few threads on here about changes you can do for free, or little money, to get your MRC to crawl better.

Neil

[speedjunkie]

What Neil said!




Mike

[soundcolor]

forgetting all the standard responses of "use the search button its your friend", "move the battery to the servo", and my favorite "weight your wheels". I will attempt to offer some usefull advice.

!st things 1st. you need to get rid of that horrible electronics tray. So, yank the battery, esc and reciever off of it, remove the shocks from their mounts, and pull it off. Make 2 lexan "shelfs" for the front and rear upper 3 links and secure them with zip-ties, or CA glue (whichever you want). Mount the Reciever to the rear, and the ESC to the front. Make a new servo mounting plate out of some spare plastic you have laying around, remembering to make it long enough to extend to the ends of the axle, while not leaving it so wide that it impedes wheel travel. Mount your battery to that. (alternately, you can also just attatch your battery to the top of your servo with some zip-ties, or velcro.. the choice is yours). Now, drill out the holes in the TVP's where the electronics tray used to mount so that the ball ends from the stock shock mounts will fit thru, insert them, and nut them in place.
Now, on to step two. Remove your shocks, dissasemble and use some nitro fuel tubing to internally limit them at least 1/4 of an inch. I liked 3/8ths. Once you have that done, re-fill the shocks with at least 50wt oil and re-install them on the truck.
Now, on to your wheels and tires. First, run 2 rows of BB's down the center channel of the wheels being held in place by a piece of electrical tape. re-install your tires and go crawling.

Word to the wise tho. Don't pull off the servo saver. Leave it on or you will fry your servo, and you'll be buying a new one, which you should do as soon as possible anyways. And, do not add more weight to the wheels than those two rows of bb's or you will fry your servo. It just cant handle it.
Also, you really only want to weight down the front tires, adding weight to the rears is counter-productive.

Hope this helped

Darryl

[Weston]

Originally Posted by soundcolor

forgetting all the standard responses of "use the search button its your friend", "move the battery to the servo", and my favorite "weight your wheels". I will attempt to offer some usefull advice.

!st things 1st. you need to get rid of that horrible electronics tray. So, yank the battery, esc and reciever off of it, remove the shocks from their mounts, and pull it off. Make 2 lexan "shelfs" for the front and rear upper 3 links and secure them with zip-ties, or CA glue (whichever you want). Mount the Reciever to the rear, and the ESC to the front. Make a new servo mounting plate out of some spare plastic you have laying around, remembering to make it long enough to extend to the ends of the axle, while not leaving it so wide that it impedes wheel travel. Mount your battery to that. (alternately, you can also just attatch your battery to the top of your servo with some zip-ties, or velcro.. the choice is yours). Now, drill out the holes in the TVP's where the electronics tray used to mount so that the ball ends from the stock shock mounts will fit thru, insert them, and nut them in place.
Now, on to step two. Remove your shocks, dissasemble and use some nitro fuel tubing to internally limit them at least 1/4 of an inch. I liked 3/8ths. Once you have that done, re-fill the shocks with at least 50wt oil and re-install them on the truck.
Now, on to your wheels and tires. First, run 2 rows of BB's down the center channel of the wheels being held in place by a piece of electrical tape. re-install your tires and go crawling.

Word to the wise tho. Don't pull off the servo saver. Leave it on or you will fry your servo, and you'll be buying a new one, which you should do as soon as possible anyways. And, do not add more weight to the wheels than those two rows of bb's or you will fry your servo. It just cant handle it.
Also, you really only want to weight down the front tires, adding weight to the rears is counter-productive.

Hope this helped

Darryl

That does help, I'm going to do the BB trik today, should I put them on the wheel or the inside of the tire? and I assume I still use the foams

[stubs179]

Originally Posted by soundcolor

forgetting all the standard responses of "use the search button its your friend", "move the battery to the servo", and my favorite "weight your wheels". I will attempt to offer some usefull advice.

!st things 1st. you need to get rid of that horrible electronics tray. So, yank the battery, esc and reciever off of it, remove the shocks from their mounts, and pull it off. Make 2 lexan "shelfs" for the front and rear upper 3 links and secure them with zip-ties, or CA glue (whichever you want). Mount the Reciever to the rear, and the ESC to the front. Make a new servo mounting plate out of some spare plastic you have laying around, remembering to make it long enough to extend to the ends of the axle, while not leaving it so wide that it impedes wheel travel. Mount your battery to that. (alternately, you can also just attatch your battery to the top of your servo with some zip-ties, or velcro.. the choice is yours). Now, drill out the holes in the TVP's where the electronics tray used to mount so that the ball ends from the stock shock mounts will fit thru, insert them, and nut them in place.
Now, on to step two. Remove your shocks, dissasemble and use some nitro fuel tubing to internally limit them at least 1/4 of an inch. I liked 3/8ths. Once you have that done, re-fill the shocks with at least 50wt oil and re-install them on the truck.
Now, on to your wheels and tires. First, run 2 rows of BB's down the center channel of the wheels being held in place by a piece of electrical tape. re-install your tires and go crawling.

Word to the wise tho. Don't pull off the servo saver. Leave it on or you will fry your servo, and you'll be buying a new one, which you should do as soon as possible anyways. And, do not add more weight to the wheels than those two rows of bb's or you will fry your servo. It just cant handle it.
Also, you really only want to weight down the front tires, adding weight to the rears is counter-productive.

Darryl

I weighted my wheels with lead weights from a tire shop(1.5oz per front wheel, 3oz on the servo) and removed the servo saver, my stock servo lasted three batteries and now it steers no more. Also stripped the locker in the tranny. I have done all of the other mods and can say the make a huge difference.

[toyw/me]

I like to use pen springs to limit my shocks. Pull shock apart remove the stock spacer that is in there. Take a pen spring and collapse it between your fingers what you want is the spring to be the same length as the stock spacer when collapsed if not cut the spring down. Now put your shock back together just like it came on the truck. This gives you limited shocks with maximum oil capacity very controlled feel and is easier on the shocks internals. Just my 2 cents.

[soundcolor]

When you have the wheel diss-assembled, you will see a small channel runing down the center of the rim. Mount the BB's in there and tape them in place.

As I said, do not remove the servo saver. It really, really does its job. As for the lockers, they are going to need to be your first purchase. Above anything else, they are the most important thing to buy. Dont skimp either, get all three of them (front center and rear) even tho the center almost never goes out, its better to replace it and know that it wont, than to be out crawling and have it ruin your day.

And yes, you still use the foams. Some (like me) prefer to cut the foam down to make it smaller, others prefer the foam to completely fill out the tire, its a personall choice really.

[shadowrejects]

do like i did to my MRC, if there's spaces on the shocks take em off, it will drop like 1 inch LOL but i stuck mine back on kuz i want mine to be high! (lol)

[Kanine38]

Originally Posted by toyw/me

I like to use pen springs to limit my shocks. Pull shock apart remove the stock spacer that is in there. Take a pen spring and collapse it between your fingers what you want is the spring to be the same length as the stock spacer when collapsed if not cut the spring down. Now put your shock back together just like it came on the truck. This gives you limited shocks with maximum oil capacity very controlled feel and is easier on the shocks internals. Just my 2 cents.

Are there any illistrations available?

[EvoKin]

The first thing I did was battery on Servo and is free. Then I upgraded to Proline Titus (Weight in front only) and I was able to move the battery back on top and still climb pretty good.

[JesseS]

I removed the foam all together, I didn't like how they tires responded at all. With the foam removed I feel like it more closely resembles a 1:1 tire with beadlockers and 5-10psi. That is probably only true with the stock tires, since they are so stiff. I also flipped the tire around so that the tread would grab more on the outer edge first instead of at the center of the tire. I like the way the handle now... especially on sharper edges. I added 1.5 oz of stick on weights to the inside of the rims on the fronts, removed the servo saver... still haven't burned out the servo after four full battery charges, but I know it will burn up eventually.

As far as COG I flipped the electronics plate over, testing for now (I didn't want to lose the support and wanted to keep my electronics off the links but needed a flat top for the new body), and remounted the Esc and Rx next to eachother on the under side, in front of the tranny. Like I said, I only did this to accommodate my new body I am building, a '72 CJ5, but I am not completely satisfied yet. Also I will be putting the battery in the engine bay to help with a more realistic weight distribution while preserving a more clean look. I drilled holes to mount the shocks on the very tips of the TVP also to accommodate the 4 link setup. I also swapped out the lower links with bent links because I felt like the straights were contributing to flipping over cause they would rub on everything taller than 2.5 inches high. The bent links help keep the tires down on steep objects. And you can use the straights to make your 4 link.

Sorry for the novel and for going into some mods unrelated to COG but I hope it gives you some inspiration. I'll try and get a few pictures up if your interested.

[scottiej]

Sorry about the pics, they are taken on my phone but this is how i modified my stock battery so i could mount it on the front servo and lower its weight a little bit. It also gives you more body clearance.

[eric113]

Here I did mine when I was running a stock modded


I made lexan plates on the upper links

[NWRokkRat]

Great Mods,I love the innovation that goes on in our minds,its surprising the number of just regular house hold items we can use,i made a four-link using guitar picks i welded together with ca,good work folks

[JesseS]

Here are a few pics.

[KnightRyder]

here is my set up. This thing is super stable, and i climbs like a billy goat