RCCrawler Forums

soundcolor · 07-31-2009, 06:34 PM

So, even tho I am against the use of it, I bought and installed a mini slider motor (I only gave 5 bucks for the thing, how could I not get it).
I decided after i installed it and ran it for a few minutes that it gets way to hot for usage. The torque diffrence is noticable, but managable..
It is a very plausible motor for use in the MRC if you take some precautions. This is what I did, and it is working really, really well.

1st, before you even bother installing it, clean the outer can extensivly. (I'll get to why in a moment). After it is clean (I used some rubbing alchohol and paper towels) Now break out some nice 220 grit sandpaper and make a few passes around the entire outer can being carefull not to hit the electronics. Once you have done that, reclean it with the alchohol and paper towels.
2nd, Now hook the motor up to your electronics, and secure it in either a vice, or a set of vice grips. This next bit kinda takes about 4 hands if you dont have a vice... If you do have a vice, then skip down to step three. Now, once you have the motor gently locked into the vice grips (minimal pressure, only enough to hold the motor still, and not do any damage to the can). Either have someone hold the vice grips or figure out a way to hold it still.
3rd. Tear off a small 3 inch by 3 inch pice of 80 grit sandpaper and fold if over so that the sanding faces touch each other. Now, Run the motor up to speed and use the sandpaper to gently file down the drive pin so that it will fit in your spur gear.
4th. Be sure to check that the gear fits properly before moving on further.
5th. Now, install the spur gear back onto the motor pin leaving it high 1/8th of an inch higher than the drive pin and lock it down.
6th, Run the motor up to speed again, and begin grinding down the end of the spur gear until you have reached the point where the set screw threads are just barely visible (dont go any farther or you'll be buying a new spur gear).
7th. Re-clean the motor completely with alcohol, paper towels and q-tips.

NOW we are ready for the most important part of all of this operation.
Getting that new hot motor ready for mounting and installed wont do you any good unless you can keep it cool. So, this is what I did, and it has keep my motor down to max 102.7 degrees (down from over 145 degrees). And yes, that is with 1 fully charged pack run through it at max speed running through the yard without stopping, It did lower my run times down to about 20 minutes. I dont see that it will affect actual crawling times as you are rarely at full throttle, and therefore cant see it using to much more power.

Buy two E-flite 280 size motor heat sinks (I used these cause I could get two of them on the can). Dont forget the heat grease.

Mounting the heat sinks

1st, Take one of the heat sinks and cut off three of the cooling fins (they just break off if you bend them back and forth (dont worry about it not staying put, we'll get to that)
2nd, Take the other heat sink and bend the the lowest two fins flat.
3rd, clip the heat sinks on the motor and test fit the motor into the chassis checking for any interferance with the cooling fins, once you are sure that everything lines up properly, and mounts solid without the fins on the heat sink hitting anything move on to step 4.
4th. Use that heat grease and run a 1/8th inch wide bead all the way around the mounting surface to the first heat sink (closest to the the motor plate) and mount it up. Use 1 DROP of CA glue in the center of the heat sinks mounting surface and clip it into place on the motor.
5th, Apply heat grease to the mounting surface of the second heat sink and clip it in place, no need for glue here.

Now, you can re-assemble everything, be careful not to push or kick around the heatsinks when installing them.

And your done.

Worked like a charm with mine, like I said, it really, really lowered the temps of the motor, as well as the ESC. I no-longer feel like its a threat to the electronics, and I believe that it is now safe to run.

You can if you wish, install a smaller gear (I bought a 9, 10, and 12) I didnt like any of them. The 9 was way... WAY to slow, slower than stock, the 10 seemed to be about the same speed as stock, and the 12 was faster, but seemed pointless.

A few more things, First, be sure to loosen the slipper clutch about 1/2 to 1 turn, this motor is fast, and the drag brake is super strong (I assume due to the extra power of the magnets in the motor). If you dont loosen it, you will break driveshafts, gears, lockers, and anything else in its way. So be safe here.
Second, Be sure you re-check your throttle trim settings, If you have adjusted yours, you will now need to re-adjust it. And finally, go learn to re-drive your rig... its gonna be fast now... really fast.

Good luck

fixed13 · 07-31-2009, 09:59 PM

Nice writeup, I am sure this will help. To bad you did not have any pics.

soundcolor · 07-31-2009, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fixed13

Nice writeup, I am sure this will help. To bad you did not have any pics.

I may, MAY diss-assemble it again tommorow and get some pics... I may

Mr. Ed · 08-01-2009, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundcolor

I may, MAY diss-assemble it again tommorow and get some pics... I may

1st......... I'm shocked at the amount of time you spend doing these write ups and tips on your builds which are very very good.

2nd........ I'm shocked that after the shock fix thread I was sure you would have taken some pictures on the next one

3rd........ I might be a little nervous that your getting good and may, MAY be able to out crawl me the next time

4th.......thanks for the info that your putting out. it's like Newbies helping newbies not be quite the newbies like the newbies we allready are

Harvo · 08-02-2009, 05:51 AM

Curious to know how long it lasts. Mine omly lasted two days of running.

No heat sinks tho.

soundcolor · 08-02-2009, 08:06 AM

Well, so far I have at least 10 fully packs through it and no problems whatsoever.... So far

trainer · 08-02-2009, 08:32 AM

Which heat sink did you use?

E-Flite

soundcolor · 08-02-2009, 07:06 PM

The ones I use were in the 1st row of boxes, 3rd one down.

The main motor heat sinks bcp/bcpp

NeXt559 · 08-04-2009, 08:48 AM

um... i think you got the spur and pinion mixed up

personally i use robinson steel pinions so i havent really had any issues w/ it fitting properly.

another thing about these mini slider motors is that the spring on the negative side thends to get jarred loose every once in a while. so if you notice a sudden decrease in speed definatly check the springs

as for heat sinks, 3 racing make a bunch for 280 motors. some even w/ a fan. and because they are longer you only just need to buy one
http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...=280+heat+sink

07-31-2009, 06:34 PM	#1
soundcolor Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Cottontown Posts: 880	Mini Slider motor tips So, even tho I am against the use of it, I bought and installed a mini slider motor (I only gave 5 bucks for the thing, how could I not get it). I decided after i installed it and ran it for a few minutes that it gets way to hot for usage. The torque diffrence is noticable, but managable.. It is a very plausible motor for use in the MRC if you take some precautions. This is what I did, and it is working really, really well. 1st, before you even bother installing it, clean the outer can extensivly. (I'll get to why in a moment). After it is clean (I used some rubbing alchohol and paper towels) Now break out some nice 220 grit sandpaper and make a few passes around the entire outer can being carefull not to hit the electronics. Once you have done that, reclean it with the alchohol and paper towels. 2nd, Now hook the motor up to your electronics, and secure it in either a vice, or a set of vice grips. This next bit kinda takes about 4 hands if you dont have a vice... If you do have a vice, then skip down to step three. Now, once you have the motor gently locked into the vice grips (minimal pressure, only enough to hold the motor still, and not do any damage to the can). Either have someone hold the vice grips or figure out a way to hold it still. 3rd. Tear off a small 3 inch by 3 inch pice of 80 grit sandpaper and fold if over so that the sanding faces touch each other. Now, Run the motor up to speed and use the sandpaper to gently file down the drive pin so that it will fit in your spur gear. 4th. Be sure to check that the gear fits properly before moving on further. 5th. Now, install the spur gear back onto the motor pin leaving it high 1/8th of an inch higher than the drive pin and lock it down. 6th, Run the motor up to speed again, and begin grinding down the end of the spur gear until you have reached the point where the set screw threads are just barely visible (dont go any farther or you'll be buying a new spur gear). 7th. Re-clean the motor completely with alcohol, paper towels and q-tips. NOW we are ready for the most important part of all of this operation. Getting that new hot motor ready for mounting and installed wont do you any good unless you can keep it cool. So, this is what I did, and it has keep my motor down to max 102.7 degrees (down from over 145 degrees). And yes, that is with 1 fully charged pack run through it at max speed running through the yard without stopping, It did lower my run times down to about 20 minutes. I dont see that it will affect actual crawling times as you are rarely at full throttle, and therefore cant see it using to much more power. Buy two E-flite 280 size motor heat sinks (I used these cause I could get two of them on the can). Dont forget the heat grease. Mounting the heat sinks 1st, Take one of the heat sinks and cut off three of the cooling fins (they just break off if you bend them back and forth (dont worry about it not staying put, we'll get to that) 2nd, Take the other heat sink and bend the the lowest two fins flat. 3rd, clip the heat sinks on the motor and test fit the motor into the chassis checking for any interferance with the cooling fins, once you are sure that everything lines up properly, and mounts solid without the fins on the heat sink hitting anything move on to step 4. 4th. Use that heat grease and run a 1/8th inch wide bead all the way around the mounting surface to the first heat sink (closest to the the motor plate) and mount it up. Use 1 DROP of CA glue in the center of the heat sinks mounting surface and clip it into place on the motor. 5th, Apply heat grease to the mounting surface of the second heat sink and clip it in place, no need for glue here. Now, you can re-assemble everything, be careful not to push or kick around the heatsinks when installing them. And your done. Worked like a charm with mine, like I said, it really, really lowered the temps of the motor, as well as the ESC. I no-longer feel like its a threat to the electronics, and I believe that it is now safe to run. You can if you wish, install a smaller gear (I bought a 9, 10, and 12) I didnt like any of them. The 9 was way... WAY to slow, slower than stock, the 10 seemed to be about the same speed as stock, and the 12 was faster, but seemed pointless. A few more things, First, be sure to loosen the slipper clutch about 1/2 to 1 turn, this motor is fast, and the drag brake is super strong (I assume due to the extra power of the magnets in the motor). If you dont loosen it, you will break driveshafts, gears, lockers, and anything else in its way. So be safe here. Second, Be sure you re-check your throttle trim settings, If you have adjusted yours, you will now need to re-adjust it. And finally, go learn to re-drive your rig... its gonna be fast now... really fast. Good luck

08-04-2009, 08:48 AM	#9
NeXt559 RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Fresno Posts: 1,464	um... i think you got the spur and pinion mixed up personally i use robinson steel pinions so i havent really had any issues w/ it fitting properly. another thing about these mini slider motors is that the spring on the negative side thends to get jarred loose every once in a while. so if you notice a sudden decrease in speed definatly check the springs as for heat sinks, 3 racing make a bunch for 280 motors. some even w/ a fan. and because they are longer you only just need to buy one http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...=280+heat+sink Last edited by NeXt559; 08-04-2009 at 09:00 AM.

07-31-2009, 09:59 PM	#2
fixed13 Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: St. Cloud Posts: 632	Nice writeup, I am sure this will help. To bad you did not have any pics.

08-02-2009, 05:51 AM	#5
Harvo I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: In the Dark Edges of your Mind Posts: 6,386	Curious to know how long it lasts. Mine omly lasted two days of running. No heat sinks tho.

08-02-2009, 08:06 AM	#6
soundcolor Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Cottontown Posts: 880	Well, so far I have at least 10 fully packs through it and no problems whatsoever.... So far

08-02-2009, 08:32 AM	#7
trainer Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Belgium Posts: 166	Which heat sink did you use? E-Flite

08-02-2009, 07:06 PM	#8
soundcolor Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Cottontown Posts: 880	The ones I use were in the 1st row of boxes, 3rd one down. The main motor heat sinks bcp/bcpp

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