Best performance

[TAT76]

I'm looking for info on set up for my MRC. It's pretty much stock other then the free mods, 2s lipo and beadlock with blue stock tires.
I have my lipo on the front servo and also weights that came with the beadlocks on wheels.
My questions are..

Should I have the weights in the rear? I'm running them now and they seem to crawl better then with stock. But would it be better with just weights in front?

The blue foams in tires seem soft but wonder if I should be alittle softer. Should I do the star cut foam thing to make them grip better? Or will this make it to soft? Maybe run no foams? Running no foams bad?
Maybe it's just me but shouldn't the tires seem like they need alittle more air pressure. So they grip more. If truck is sitting flat should the tires be squished alittle?
If I do need or should do the star foam thing is there a write up on it or more info so I can do it right?
Thanks guys..

[JeepinOR]

It sounds like you've already found the stickies at the top of this Mini Rock Crawler section?
What [weighted?] bead locks are you using? How much weight? What "free mods" have you done? Weight in tires will help; but COG is quite a factor, too, especially with a stock MRC.
I'm confused: are you running stock MRC tires, or the Losi Blue Claws, or blue foams in stock MRC tires (I like the blue foams in the blue Claws)?

Those stock MRC tires suck about as much as suck can suck; star cutting the foams will only get you so far, as there's only so much you can do for those for those stockers.
There should be some give in the tires--yes, a little squish--so they can spread out a bit, providing a bigger footprint and thus, theoretically, a better opportunity to get some grip.
You'll also see that many "vent" their wheels or tires so that air can escape. This not only helps a bit with gaining that foot print, but also cuts down on tire bounce (you want your wheels on the terrain, not bouncing around gripping air!). I only had good experience running 'no foam' with the stock MRC tires and rims; and then, they worked out best for couch crawling.
Yes, you'll find tech on star cutting and tired venting if you search.

RE wheel weight: on average, it seems that folks run a bit of weight up front (a few ounces for the MRC, give or take), and about half as much in the rear, if any at all. It's all about trial and error and seeing what works for you. It may also depend on what else you have on your rig, and where.

RE tires: any after market is going to show you just how bad those stock tires suck. I first tried the Losi "Blue" Claws and I love(d) them. Proline Flat Irons and Chisels are also quite popular.

[TAT76]

Originally Posted by JeepinCA

It sounds like you've already found the stickies at the top of this Mini Rock Crawler section?
What [weighted?] bead locks are you using? How much weight? What "free mods" have you done? Weight in tires will help; but COG is quite a factor, too, especially with a stock MRC.
I'm confused: are you running stock MRC tires, or the Losi Blue Claws, or blue foams in stock MRC tires (I like the blue foams in the blue Claws)?

Those stock MRC tires suck about as much as suck can suck; star cutting the foams will only get you so far, as there's only so much you can do for those for those stockers.
There should be some give in the tires--yes, a little squish--so they can spread out a bit, providing a bigger footprint and thus, theoretically, a better opportunity to get some grip.
You'll also see that many "vent" their wheels or tires so that air can escape. This not only helps a bit with gaining that foot print, but also cuts down on tire bounce (you want your wheels on the terrain, not bouncing around gripping air!). I only had good experience running 'no foam' with the stock MRC tires and rims; and then, they worked out best for couch crawling.
Yes, you'll find tech on star cutting and tired venting if you search.

RE wheel weight: on average, it seems that folks run a bit of weight up front (a few ounces for the MRC, give or take), and about half as much in the rear, if any at all. It's all about trial and error and seeing what works for you. It may also depend on what else you have on your rig, and where.

RE tires: any after market is going to show you just how bad those stock tires suck. I first tried the Losi "Blue" Claws and I love(d) them. Proline Flat Irons and Chisels are also quite popular.

First off. Thanks for the great info.
Free mods I have done. Relocated all elec. down on 3 link by making plastic shelves from a body. Installed a deans and mounted my lipo to the front servo. Did not flip motor tranny b/c I like the weight forward and have read both sides to that mod. Plus have enough room as is..lol
50 weight oil all four but the back two shocks have mini T springs with spaces.

Tires are the 1.9 mini rock claws ,bleu.. and the beadlocks are the losi alum 1.9. Each beadlock has two vent holes. Looking at the site the weights are 30grams and I have all four installed.
http://www.losi.com/Products/Related...ps&SubCategory=

The tires seem to have softened up alittle to allow squish.. I feel the weight is good now. It seems to climb what ever I threw at it other then when a wheel gets pinched and flips the hole truck..lol I do get bounce when trying to give it more wheel spin to make a climb sometimes. I can't seem to find any specs on how much the beadlocks weight either and without a scale not sure about the truck. The only real difference is the lipo on the front then the rear.
I do wonder if these beadlocks with weights is to much for this truck. They really added alot of weight to it, but then it really made the truck stick to the rocks..lol
Can the stock motor handle this weight under load?

[stubs179]

Take all of the weights out of the back wheels. Just run the weights in the fronts.

[TAT76]

Ok I tested it out. With no weights in the rear it seems to be an improvement. The rear don't push the front as much when the front lose grip. But then the front help pull the rear up the steep rocks..
I'm pumped, whats next to make this thing even better?

[scale4x4]

replace the plastic diff and tranny lockers with the metal upgraded ones, replace the tires,and if you want to get into more serious crawling, put a better servo in, and maybe the motor. but thats just me

[Mr. Ed]

I'm a little confused are you running the stock tires that came with the MRC or have you allready upgraded to the losi blue compound claws?

if your running the factory tires...I ran them with no foams and BB's for weight in the front and no weight in the rear. Nice rims by the way I saw your pictures!

Blue claws....run any kinda weight you want but only in the front. IF your tires in the rear are grapping tooooo much add more foam to stiffin up the tire this will make the rear tire hop before it wrap up and this I've found to help me out...but that's how I drive somebody else may think differently

[crawlinlosi]

bent links and aftermarket shocks!

[kronik]

i have the stock rims with flatirons, i butchered my flatirons, meaning i cut off every other lug. i have 4.5 oz in each front and 2 oz in each rear tire i also have a bb pack on the front axle that weighs 2 oz, and one on the back that weighs 1.5 oz. i run hard bodies and when i would go down hills it would flip frontwards without the extra weight in the back. all together my mrc weighs just over 4 pounds. i have also installed a hitech 645 servo and metal lockers front center and rear! hope this helps!

[TAT76]

I'm running losi blue claws..
I did notivce after taking weight out of the rear that coming down a rock it will flip. May have to add some weight to even it out.
For a servo I have a few HS-65hb and was wondering if those would be better then the stock servo and also if the servo saver would work on them.
I pretty much have been cut off on buying anything till x-mas from the wife. Only thing I'm allowed to get is the lockers. Only b/c I have one rear or front one but still need the others.
For now it's all about tweeking and testing..lol

[TAT76]

What is all needed to do the 4 link? Is there a material list some where?
Also about shocks, I've seen in builds how others use random shocks from different RC trucks. Most are on aftermarket chassis but can this be done with stock? What happens if I used shorter shocks? Only asking couse I have several different trucks around that may have a set that would work. If using shorter, does it cause binding an anything or just lower the ride height..

[kronik]

Originally Posted by TAT76

I'm running losi blue claws..
I did notivce after taking weight out of the rear that coming down a rock it will flip. May have to add some weight to even it out.
For a servo I have a few HS-65hb and was wondering if those would be better then the stock servo and also if the servo saver would work on them.
I pretty much have been cut off on buying anything till x-mas from the wife. Only thing I'm allowed to get is the lockers. Only b/c I have one rear or front one but still need the others.
For now it's all about tweeking and testing..lol

pretty much any servo is better than the stock. the stock servo has plastic gears which strip very quick with extra weight. with my hitech 645 i dont need the servo saver, the servo saver is just keeping you from completely trashing the stocker. no need for it once upgraded, and as far as your wife goes, just buy her an earley christmas present and get on her good side, then go get some upgrades! lol as far as shock go i would do some trial and error testing, just take the four that you think would do good. if your first pick of shocks dont crawl well then take them off and try some different ones! if you got em try em! a know alot of people invert the shocks, but that really only helps keep the shock oil in, i dont think it helps with permormance, but it saves your shocks from leaking! keep us updated on the progress! take it easy bro

[TAT76]

I'll give some of the shocks a try. I was more worried about if the shocks are shorter then does it affect the Chassis, ride hight and things like that.
Also will give the HS-65HB a try ans see how it does. If the servo saver works or fits on it I will go ahead and run with it since there not metal gears and I'm not sure how much stronger the servo is..
I don't want to push my wife to far. She's the one that got me into this hobby by buying my savage and about $1000 in parts/ radios and tools 3 years ago for x-mas. Then the next year she got me 2-450 heli's a MCX and a DX6i. So I think I will wait and see what she gets me this year. Betting everything I put on my list...lol
On a side note I got off work early so went and found more rocks..lol This is getting out of hand. Rock therepy is in my future..

[Mr. Ed]

i would hold off on shocks untill u pick a new chassis. some chassis's need different size shocks to really bring out the performace. or just pick out what chassis u will get and buy the shocks for that chassis 1st if u have too. u can always get the chassis later. get a good servo and metal lockers i would not 4 link it i was just wait to get a chassis kit. crawling like u have it will pay off in driving skill later on with the new chassis.

[TAT76]

Thanks Mr. Ed, I think I'm along ways from a new chassis tho. I don't have a clue on what is good or what to look for with one. Other then the look it's self I'm lost on what one will help me crawl better. Then to know what all I need to make it work with a stock MRC is another thing...lol
Do most of the stock parts work other then shocks with the aftermarket chassis? What would you recommend going with?

[TAT76]

Hey guys, when limiting my stock shocks should I still use the spacers?
I really don't understand what this will do but I'm done with the two rear shocks and working on the fronts. I have cut wire insulation for the spacer at 3/8 of an inch like told. Hopefully I will see a fifference..

[kronik]

Originally Posted by TAT76

Hey guys, when limiting my stock shocks should I still use the spacers?
I really don't understand what this will do but I'm done with the two rear shocks and working on the fronts. I have cut wire insulation for the spacer at 3/8 of an inch like told. Hopefully I will see a fifference..

you will see a big difference! i just havent limited mine cuz for some reason i love wheel rub...lol i just like the look of alot of articulation. and with my mrc weighing over 4 pounds, it stays planted on the ground pretty well.

[TAT76]

Havent had a chance to test yet. Been working on a front servo mount so I can mount my JR Sport that I still had from when I had a savage..lol This should be plunty of power to throw this truck around..lol

[kronik]

Originally Posted by TAT76

Havent had a chance to test yet. Been working on a front servo mount so I can mount my JR Sport that I still had from when I had a savage..lol This should be plunty of power to throw this truck around..lol

lol. i would say so! throw that savage motor on it.lol the motor would be as big as the truck,

[TAT76]

Originally Posted by kronik

lol. i would say so! throw that savage motor on it.lol the motor would be as big as the truck,

Yeah that would be a challenge..lol
I took it out for it's first spin and will tell you the bigger servo makes a huge difference. Now I understand when I see in vids why people turn right/left really fast to move the truck. It makes crawling alot easier being able to turn before rolling backwards..
But with the shock limiting, I don't see a difference. Maybe it's b/c I had to put my battery on the rear axel since my servo and mount made it to high in the front. I may need heavier shock oil as well but I don't really know what it's suppose to do or for me to watch for. I will have to run more to see what if any difference it made.