triangluated lowers on stock skid plate...

[draggbody]

so i have been modding our MRC a little at a time... i 4 linked the rear and added 30* bent lowers front and rear... i wanted to triangulate the lowers, but searhing revealed that most people are putting a new skid... well, my impatients led me to this... i notched the plate and used tubing as spacers... the center tube is threaded on both ends and the link bolts go through into the center tube... i had to use traxxas 3mm rod ends that took some massaging to make them fit on the side of the chassis that has the motor/trans on it... i say well worth the effort... i am going to remake one of the lower links as it hits the transmission and limits the up travel a little... hope this helps someone else...

[Mutant_Xj]

I did the same thing with my stock skid but I had to put spacers in between the tranny and skid to make room for the rod ends. I also used M3 threaded rod and nylock nuts on both sides of the TVPs. Worked alright but I still didn't like it. Now I'm rockin a GC-3 so I don't have to worry about it.

[draggbody]

TVP's????

i just did notch the trans a little and i shaved down the rod ends some... i didnt think about spacing it out... either way, i guess it works...

[b00sted08]

Originally Posted by draggbody

TVP's????.

twin verticle plates.

what does triangle-ing the lower links do? help with torque twist? i seen some rigs where the rear is triangulated and the uppers are parrallel

[b00sted08]

also,can you take a pic on how to made your rear 4-link? thanks!

[draggbody]

triangulating my lowers made a world of difference on the TT... maybe not as much as 4 linking the rear, but definitely noticeable... the rear upper links are made out of 3/16x.049 aluminum that i drilled and tapped for 3mm rod ends... i used the stock hardware on the chassis side of the 4 link and moved them to the inside of the chassis... on the axle, you can see two other holes, this is where i had them, but they would hit the shocks under flex... the hole on the right side of the axle 4 link is where the servo plate bolts down, i enlarged it and used 3mm hardware here, then i drilled and tapped the plastic for the opposite hole... i plan on doing the front 4 link, and i am going to sandwich an aluminum plate between the servo plate and the axle...

[soundcolor]

Just an observations here, but.....

You could have saved yourself a ton of time and simply cut the whole tab off, put a piece of 4-40 allthread thru, and used nuts to locate the links where you wanted them...

Would have made life easier

[firejosh]

Hey it looks good. I am right in the middle of figuring out what to do and this post and pics help...got to have pics...

[draggbody]

Originally Posted by soundcolor

Just an observations here, but.....

You could have saved yourself a ton of time and simply cut the whole tab off, put a piece of 4-40 allthread thru, and used nuts to locate the links where you wanted them...

Would have made life easier

well, yes, but i wanted to tie it back to the skid so that the drive train was mounted as stiff as possible... the skid w/o the spacers was very flimsy...

[Mr. Ed]

This is one of the better factory chassis 4 ink jobs I've seen good work

[draggbody]

Originally Posted by Mr. Ed

This is one of the better factory chassis 4 ink jobs I've seen good work

thanks... i usually build a prototype and then refine it... aka boredom... well, i 4 linked the front, obvious prototype, but i cant get the aluminum rod to bend far enough w/o breaking... should i heat it?? if i cant get more angle out of the fronts, i will try some ax10 rod ends, i think, that are bent...

anyways, i made a small aluminum plate that is sandwiched into the servo mount and i used traxxas rod ends and the "ball screws" that come in the pack... it was tight getting it all to fit, and these were an easy solution... i wish i could inboard the fronts like the rear, but the tranny cover is in the way... any side effects to notching the cover... i havent even pulled it off to see how much room is in there...

here are some pics...

[wheelhead4x4]

Go ahead an pull the cover off I did to get more room. I feel if any rocks are going to it in there they can just fly out when the go finger pulls to hard.

[MRCking]

You will end up with the tranny spur gears facing the rear of the truck. ONLY DO this if you are running brushless system. DO NOT do this with stock motor.

Reasons for doing this? Makes room in the front of the truck for battery on four link, helps remove some torque twist and simply to make people go HHMMM.. like the song.

[draggbody]

Originally Posted by MRCking

You will end up with the tranny spur gears facing the rear of the truck. ONLY DO this if you are running brushless system. DO NOT do this with stock motor.

Reasons for doing this? Makes room in the front of the truck for battery on four link, helps remove some torque twist and simply to make people go HHMMM.. like the song.

i pulled the cover and notched it, so now the front uppers mount on the inside of the chassis, the spur gear is still facing the front of the truck and i have my battery on the front axle w/ a full size servo... the Rx and ESC are on the rear axle... there is no TT and it sticks like mad off camber... 4oz in each of the front tires, 2.5oz in of the the rear tires, 1.5oz stuck to the front axle and 2 oz stuck to the rear... i want some tires now...

[Crawl_Before_Walking]

I will be doing this mod to my own MRC along with a 4link setup in the comming weeks.

Awesome job and pics to show it all off

Would love to see some video of this in action.

[draggbody]

here is my final version... i am going to build a bender because i am not very satisfied w/ the bending of my links... i ultimately heated them up to get this amount of bend... maybe the combination of some axial rod ends and a little less bend in the links will net me some better results... it works phenominally though...