MIP driveshaft problem

[nonstopboost]

I just notice the other day my front MIP CVD driveshaft is binding on itself. It ended up heating up my motor and made me worried. My pinion angle is not very steep actually my servo tips forward a bit if anything. And it only binds at full extension. But Full extension is what a fully sprung rig would be at so how are these working for others?? Im running a full droop set up with internal springs up front.

Any one else notice this?? Any suggestions??

[Ripperfi]

Dont get offended but did you build them correctly?

[Crawler80]

Originally Posted by Ripperfi

Dont get offended but did you build them correctly?

x2 Did you lube them?

[slowride1]

nope he didnt

[Ripperfi]

Originally Posted by Crawler80

x2 Did you lube them?

X2 Lube

[nonstopboost]

I bought the rig with the Shafts so no i personally didnt lube them...and they looked a bit starving to be honest when i did just rebuild them...But that doesnt account for the fact that the cvd's are maxed out at full extension...just seems like since they are designed for a stock fully sprung rig that they would have more angle allowance...Its to the point where im considering shimming my tranny forward to get the angle down.

They dont bind down on the axle bend but up where it attaches to the tranny is where it binds.

[Ripperfi]

Originally Posted by nonstopboost

I bought the rig with the Shafts so no i personally didnt lube them...and they looked a bit starving to be honest when i did just rebuild them...But that doesnt account for the fact that the cvd's are maxed out at full extension...just seems like since they are designed for a stock fully sprung rig that they would have more angle allowance...Its to the point where im considering shimming my tranny forward to get the angle down.

They dont bind down on the axle bend but up where it attaches to the tranny is where it binds.

You did buy it used. No telling what the previous owner did during assembly or driving. Theres a reason they sell rebuild kits, here. Just a suggestion, if one end binds maybe you could flip it around.

[Cave Dave]

Do you have a picture?

[Psycho-Savvy]

Is anyone else having problems with there mip cvds? I just order some a few days ago and I am hoping that I did not make a mistake. MIP makes a solid product and I am bummed to find out that they may have a problem.

[nonstopboost]

I have taken them apart, cleaned and lubed them...they look like new...not bent or worn spots other than where its wearing/binding....

Here are some pictures...
First pic shows it at a stand still full compression (smooth movement and driving at full squat)


These next two pictures show it at full droop....keep in mind there is internal springs that dont allow the droop to max of the shock capacity. You can notice in the pictures the CVD's are maxed out causing binding. What confuses me is these were designed for a stock MRC which sits at full sprung position so how would these possibly work?? The chassis im running has shock mounts just 1/4 below what a stock would have so it shouldnt make that much difference...



My conclusion to myself is to tip the tranny forward a bit and also internally limit the front with not only the spring but a limiter....ill go from there and see if i cant get it to work.

[Ripperfi]

I just installed a set last night and they are smooth and wonderful as all MIP products are. In my experience anyways. From your pics, it looks like a pretty sharp angle you got there. I dont think the stockers even go that far without terrible binding. My suggestion would be to limit your flex or maybe lengthen your upper links to clock the axle or both. I would think that if you tilt the tranny your going to have the same problem on the other end.

[JeepinOR]

I'm wondering about the visible wear on the shaft. It's rubbing on something (or was in the past) - the chassis? If so, there's at least one source of unwanted friction.

In that first picture, with the shocks compressed, the links look close to parallel but I'm surprised with the angle of the shaft, which should also be fairly parallel. Can you get a picture of your front axle, showing the servo as well? I'm wondering about the homemade links and if you have enough play to rotate that front axle forward a little more: with the upper turnbuckles you may be able to try it fairly easily. If that helps but doesn't quite do it, you may consider re-linking the front all around. The last picture suggests that you 'may' have some room to work with, as far as front axle angle goes.

How's the rear angle? If you tip the tranny you're going to change things back there.

[Straightjacket]

I ussualy run the mip's the other way around,the female side on the bottom.It's heavier,and it protects the inside shaft from dammage. In your pictures I noticed that you have a very thick skid plate,that may be raising your tranny up quite a bit causing your binding issues?

[Ripperfi]

Originally Posted by Straightjacket

I ussualy run the mip's the other way around,the female side on the bottom.It's heavier,and it protects the inside shaft from dammage.

This is a good idea. I thought of doing it after I had finished installing them the other way. Oh well. Didnt feel like taking it apart again so I left it. Great tip though.

Originally Posted by Straightjacket

In your pictures I noticed that you have a very thick skid plate,that may be raising your tranny up quite a bit causing your binding issues?

I noticed that too. Thought it was just me being unfamiliar with his chassis.

[hotwheels000]

Tranny is raised, shocks are lowered...combine those two and you have reached the limit.I dont believe you have an issue with the MIP's you have a issue with the design of your build.

Good luck, it should be a simple fix/workaround.

[MRCking]

Looks like your chassis kit raised your tranny.. and your four links pitched your axle downward in rotation. Simply thread out your upper four link and DONE. You want the axle output and the tranny output to point at each other. If you cannot get your four link to thread out any further.. get longer link ends or longer links. Make sure to suck in the bottom links. Point is you have to change the pitch of the rear axle to a straight line. While the rig is sitting under its own weight.

[nonstopboost]

Originally Posted by JeepinCA

I'm wondering about the visible wear on the shaft. It's rubbing on something (or was in the past) - the chassis?

I'm wondering about the homemade links and if you have enough play to rotate that front axle forward a little more: with the upper turnbuckles you may be able to try it fairly easily.

The Visible wear is becuse I used to have the front drivline switched around...that wear is from the rocks...so thats not a problem..

I have plent of space to tip the axle forward...but its tipped so much forward as it is im positive thats not the problem.

Originally Posted by Straightjacket

I ussualy run the mip's the other way around,the female side on the bottom.It's heavier,and it protects the inside shaft from dammage. In your pictures I noticed that you have a very thick skid plate,that may be raising your tranny up quite a bit causing your binding issues?

The skid is thicker than stock yes and the shocks are lower than stock...yes...so ya that probably doenst help the problem....I cleaned em up and regreased them all up and it seems pretty good.

I never tipped the tranny nor limited the shocks...got too lazy...but i did used 2.6mm bolt into my tranny for more strength. Now that its lubed up it seems to work pretty good....I think my major problem was lack of lube and the front axle may of been tipped up too much...now its tipped down which i dont like but it seems to not bind and works ok...

What can i say im a berg guy not a shafty driver...thats why i posted here to get the input...

Thanks to all

[Greatscott]

I just installed these on my truck, the threadlock is drying now. I conservitively lubed them up with AE green slime. I was wondering if I should put any lube on the slide shafts?