Evil's Moon Buggy...2011 1.9 Comp rig

[EvilTwin v2]

After winning 1.9 in our summer series, I sat down and thought about how well my little T1e Rockshow worked and how easy it was to drive. I started thinking about ways to improve it for the next season.

Well, I couldn't think of anything so I just decided to build a new comp'er.

Specs:

- T1e Mini Moon Buggy chassis w/ links (high clearance lower rears).
- locked MRC axles w/ CVD's, aluminum C's, knuckles, rear straight axles, and overdrive gears in front.
- MRC transmission w/ metal locker and aluminum gears.
- Hitec HS-5955TG servo.
- Sportwerks ERacers XLR-8 motor.
- Vanquish Products LH 1.9 wheels w/ bullet weigths.
- HB Rovers.

[ittybitty]

Details or not...it looks great!

[neiloid1]

Great looking rig, with a fine choice of servo . Can't wait to see pictures or video of it in action.

[EvilTwin v2]

I'm a firm believer in plenty of steering. The 5955 seems to be plenty for the little trucks, but I was tempted to put on a JR 9100T that I have here. The color of the heat sink on it is a perfect match of the body panels. If I did that, then I'd only have the 5955 for my sportsman, though.

[EvilTwin v2]

[awdtsi]

Wow, that looks really nice

[geekfreek95]

we are gonna have to go up to yorkvillle sometime or over to oglbey i just got my gc-3 and mud slingers my dad has an ax10 and his friend has a rtc axial

[papabash]

Good looking rig! Like what you did with the body panels.

[EvilTwin v2]

Originally Posted by geekfreek95

we are gonna have to go up to yorkvillle sometime or over to oglbey i just got my gc-3 and mud slingers my dad has an ax10 and his friend has a rtc axial

If you're up for a ride, we're having a comp Sunday in Beaver, PA.

Originally Posted by papabash

Good looking rig! Like what you did with the body panels.

Thanks. I figured I'd make use of the stock MRC body. It actually worked out pretty well. I really like the color.

[TC09mini]

Looks great Evil. This chassis flat out performs. look pretty good too!

[EvilTwin v2]

Had a little test and tune session this afternoon. I was trying to run with less weight in the wheels. It really suffered on climbs, so the weight will be going back in.





Here's a couple short vids...

A steep climb:
http://www.youtube.com/v/0KWvgjBSLE8?hl=en&fs=1

Hopping a gap:
http://www.youtube.com/v/bXdzAejgKAA?hl=en&fs=1

Another gap w/ an off camber (yeah, I screwed up trying to film and drive):
http://www.youtube.com/v/QjX0bnBcsnw?hl=en&fs=1

[ram_tough]

I want one!! Lol, have ever since I first got a look at Turbo's at our comp a few weeks back its a great little package. Looking forward to Motorama too

[neiloid1]

That first photo is just fantastic !! I love it.

Are those videos with less wheel weight than you usually run? Looks very capable, not sure if it was the camera angle but that first vid look ridiculously steep.

[EvilTwin v2]

Originally Posted by neiloid1

That first photo is just fantastic !! I love it.

Are those videos with less wheel weight than you usually run? Looks very capable, not sure if it was the camera angle but that first vid look ridiculously steep.

Yes. In my old Rockshow, I ran a full 6 slugs in each front and 2 slugs in each rear wheel. Yesterday, I was trying it with 4 slugs in each front and no slugs in teh rear.

The climb in the first video is pretty darn steep. At one comp I had the tuning screwed up on my T1e Bully (rear upper links down 1 row from normal on the chassis) and I couldn't climb it with my 2.2 Bully! I've seen a couple other 2.2 comp rigs flip over backward also trying to make that climb! This thing will climb incredibly steep. I'm loving it!

BTW, notice the lack of torque twist in the first video. It climbs steep, without any desire to lift a front wheel!

[EvilTwin v2]

Ok. Here's my setup...hopefully, this will help other people trying to build the track as there are no instructions.

In the kit, you will receive:

- an assemble chassis
- Front servo plate
- Rear 4-link plate w/ spacers
- Upper and lower links w/ 3mm threaded slugs (for older T-Maxx or short Axial style rod ends)
- longer screws for mounting the shocks to the axle.

The links are as follows:
- Bent links are rear lowers
- There are 2 pair of long straight links. 1 pair are the rear uppers and the other pair are the front lowers.
- There is 1 pair of shorter straight links. These are the front uppers.

The lower links were pretty straight forward, mounting in the stock locations on the axle.

The front upper links will mount under the servo plate at the axle, and I mounted them to the outside of the chassis in the lower of the 2 holes.

The rear upper links were also mounted to the outside of the chassis, but in the upper of the 2 available holes. At the axle, the links will mountto the top of the 4-link plate, with a spacer to lift them up and avoid binding. Since the chassis is intended for the 2.8" Vendetta shocks and I'm running the slightly shorter (2.3") mini Late model shock, I had to go thicker with the spacer in order to further lift the links above the 4-link plate.

- Shocks
I am using the Losi Mini late model shocks. It is recommended to use the 2.8" Duratrax Vendetta shocks.

On the axle, i used the longer hardware to outboard the shocks, using the stock shock (or link) rod end ball to fill the gap where the stock shocks were located. At the chassis, i used a spacer (not included) to space the shocks out from the chassis so that the links would not contact the shocks. I will probably increas the size of my spacer at the axle (move the shocks out further on the axle) and decrease the spacer size at the chassis (move the top closer).

Battery and electronics location:
Currently I have the FXR esc mounted to the bottom of the rear deck on the chassis and I ziptied a small square of lexan scrap to the bottom of the upper front links and put velcro in the center of it to mount a Thunder Power 45c 325mah 2 cell Lipo.

I plan on moving the esc to the front, upper link location, however, and moving the batter to the rear links. Currently, the esc is on the chassis, and I'd like to get that weight to the links. The battery is difficult to access, and weighs less than the receiver, so it can go to the rear links, but mounted as far forward as possible.

If anybody has any questions or would like to see pictures of my setup (to help them with their own build), just let me know. I'll offer any help that I can.

[TenTonBrick]

what spacers did you use on the rear uppers and on the shocks

[geekfreek95]

were is that steep climb at (probly alittle hard to explain)i remeber last weekend i was up there and busted a driveshaft on a climb that was pretty steep but it had a little lip at the bottom that it smacked against.

[EvilTwin v2]

Originally Posted by TenTonBrick

what spacers did you use on the rear uppers and on the shocks

For the front shocks, I used the balls from Revo rod ends. For the rear shocks, T1e chassis spacers. I don't know what the spacers for the rear links came from. Ill try to remember to measure them after the comp today.

Originally Posted by geekfreek95

were is that steep climb at (probly alittle hard to explain)i remeber last weekend i was up there and busted a driveshaft on a climb that was pretty steep but it had a little lip at the bottom that it smacked against.

That climb is almost at the very top of the rocks, maybe 60' in on the ram side. I'm going from memory on the distance so it might be a little further.

[Raceaholic]

Nice job. I have been waiting for my moonbuggy mini and sportsman since the beginning of August. Got the sportsman a week ago. Still no mini. So work the bugs out for me. I am building a complete new 1.9. The old Kamikaze works well. I will have to check it out in December. Good luck today !!

[geekfreek95]

Originally Posted by EvilTwin v2

That climb is almost at the very top of the rocks, maybe 60' in on the ram side. I'm going from memory on the distance so it might be a little further.

ok thanks