Will I need Custom Links?

[WestTxRc]

Will my Stock mrc Pro links work with this set up for the front?
Wil be running aluminum c's and knuckles. I read I might need different links If so where can i get them and which ones do I need to get.

Heres what I wanna run on the front I ordered from RCBROS:
1 x MRC High Steer Link
1 x RcBros Flush Mount 1/10th Servo Clamps
1 x RcBros MRC Front 4 Link Mount
1 x Losi MRC Front Servo Mount w/ servo posts

[cboggs]

You are going to have to make some shorter front upper links to make that over the axle steering and servo mount work.

[WestTxRc]

Ok what Ends will I need to get and what size allthread do I get to make the Links?

[WestTxRc]

Can Someone tell me what size all thread i'll need to make the links?
Also What Link ends will I need to get??

Do they even sell shorter Links Pre-made?

[WAM]

Originally Posted by WestTxRc

Can Someone tell me what size all thread i'll need to make the links?
Also What Link ends will I need to get??

Do they even sell shorter Links Pre-made?

There's any number of ways to make links. For 1/10 rigs I use 8-32 allthread sleeved with aluminum tubing. For lowers I use stainless steel and uppers use aluminum allthread. All comes from mcmaster.com. 8-32 and 4mm will thread into the large Revo and Jato rod ends.

For a mini I'd probably use 3mm allthread and the small Revo rod ends (1942?). Wouldn't bother sleeving the uppers -- maybe heatshrink just for looks.

Personally, I wouldn't do what you're doing. I don't like the idea of shortening the links just to get OTA steering. One reason for buying the Pro is it's a proven design and has won many major comps as-is. I'd suggest you look up the Pro build threads from Rubbaneck and Del Monte and shamelessly copy them. I wish I knew more about tuner's 2011 nat's winning mini, but haven't found a build thread. Just a brief list of parts in the Nationals subforum. Those 801 guys tend to play with droop and semidroop -- I'd like to find out more.

[HARDKNOCKZ]

Originally Posted by WAM

There's any number of ways to make links. For 1/10 rigs I use 8-32 allthread sleeved with aluminum tubing. For lowers I use stainless steel and uppers use aluminum allthread. All comes from mcmaster.com. 8-32 and 4mm will thread into the large Revo and Jato rod ends.

For a mini I'd probably use 3mm allthread and the small Revo rod ends (1942?). Wouldn't bother sleeving the uppers -- maybe heatshrink just for looks.

Personally, I wouldn't do what you're doing. I don't like the idea of shortening the links just to get OTA steering. One reason for buying the Pro is it's a proven design and has won many major comps as-is. I'd suggest you look up the Pro build threads from Rubbaneck and Del Monte and shamelessly copy them. I wish I knew more about tuner's 2011 nat's winning mini, but haven't found a build thread. Just a brief list of parts in the Nationals subforum. Those 801 guys tend to play with droop and semidroop -- I'd like to find out more.

Hey Bill,
You keep mentioning so & so's rig or this guys rig. You need to keep in mind that guys like Jake win comps because of years of crawling. Sure...their rigs play a part but it's not as big a part as you may be thinking.

The OTA steering is a GREAT addition to a mini. Shortening the uppers to achieve that kind of clearance is not at all a bad trade. It's simple enough to do & I think the pros outweigh the cons. Just like EVERYTHING in this sport...it's give & take. The MRC Pro IS a proven design but that doesn't mean that there isn't room for improvement. There's ALWAYS room for improvement.

The 801 boys love running their minis slammed. It's a proven setup & obviously worked well for em. Just keep in mind that what may work well in the Utah terrain...may not perform the same in Cali.

My advice to ANYONE building a rig is play with it. Test. Tune. Change. Do things differently than the majority just try it out. If it sucks...try something else. Most people will use a proven setup as a basis for their build but everyone has a different drive style, different terrain & different funds available. Half the fun is the build but a rig is only a tool...so don't just copy a person's rig & hope you'll drive as well as they do. A wise man once said..."YA CAN'T BUY SKILLS."

J.D.

[cboggs]

Simple things like outboarding your shocks at the axle and outboarding the upper links at the chassis will make a big differance for the better. Might want to take this into account when you make those upper links. I think I made some out of 1/4" aluminum tube and used the smaller 3mm Traxxas rod ends with some Axial M3 20mm threaded shafts.

[DRCrawlGood]

Originally Posted by HARDKNOCKZ

Hey Bill,
You keep mentioning so & so's rig or this guys rig. You need to keep in mind that guys like Jake win comps because of years of crawling. Sure...their rigs play a part but it's not as big a part as you may be thinking.

The OTA steering is a GREAT addition to a mini. Shortening the uppers to achieve that kind of clearance is not at all a bad trade. It's simple enough to do & I think the pros outweigh the cons. Just like EVERYTHING in this sport...it's give & take. The MRC Pro IS a proven design but that doesn't mean that there isn't room for improvement. There's ALWAYS room for improvement.

The 801 boys love running their minis slammed. It's a proven setup & obviously worked well for em. Just keep in mind that what may work well in the Utah terrain...may not perform the same in Cali.

My advice to ANYONE building a rig is play with it. Test. Tune. Change. Do things differently than the majority just try it out. If it sucks...try something else. Most people will use a proven setup as a basis for their build but everyone has a different drive style, different terrain & different funds available. Half the fun is the build but a rig is only a tool...so don't just copy a person's rig & hope you'll drive as well as they do. A wise man once said..."YA CAN'T BUY SKILLS."

J.D.

Great advice, I used to copy setups and while they helped me out they really never worked up to their full potential. Where you crawl and how you drive all effect setup. I use proven setups for a base then tweak to my own liking and it has seemed to work well for me. So essentially drive and tune at your comfort level and see what works for you.

[WAM]

JD if you don't like that approach, nobody's twisting your arm. It makes sense to me to do some research and learn and benefit from the previous efforts of others. But it's just a valid place to start, not something to marry. Never said it was. I don't think I've ever said "build Jake's rig and you'll get Jake's results."

And I said "I" wouldn't shorten links to make room for trick steering. It was a personal opinion...and still is. If I want to play with steering I'd probably try to construct a BTA that works with the longer links. Not currently a priority.

You're advising people to all do their own thing. When you have someone who's asking how to build links, it's pretty likely he doesn't yet have a "thing" to build upon. I kinda suspect the skills required for effective tuning are harder to come by than skills for driving. And if you have no tuning skills yet, then changes just become random. I'll stand by my advice to start with a proven baseline -- something you can return to when mods don't work out.

[WestTxRc]

Dont get me wrong I never asked HOW TO BUILD LINKS, I've been Rock Crawling for 10 years of course its a 1.1 scale but still basic fundamentals.
And Not to mention that I built my own r1.1 rig so making some links is not a problem I was just curious on what size diameter and length of links I'll need for that set up. I still greatly need the advise from all yall, And I take everyones opinion in mind also. THat's kinda the point of a message board like this is to get everyone's opinion and Help along the way. All though I may have been crawling a 1.1 for 10 years I'm a Virgin when it comes to Rc crawling and exspecially MRC's I owned a Ax10 for a few weeks and Couldnt stand all the plastic it just looked cheap and then I seen the Mrc Pro and Even though im in the build process it looks to me IMO to be alot better platform and more rigid and steardy. Anyhow Guess When all my parts get here I'll figure out what to do. Oh and if you read my WestTxRc MRC build thread then you woudl see that I'm doing a No Buget build for performance and to be competitive at comps.
Again Thanks to everyone for there advice if yall have more then Im listening and ready to learn.

[WAM]

Yeah, I've followed your build thread. I was reading several while I was finishing mine up. It's prettymuch done for now and I've already broken the steering link. Maybe your OTA link isn't such a bad idea. Did you get your shock disassembly squared away? I wasn't really sure what you were asking, but if you want to pop the cap off the ball stud, I found some really narrow needle nose pliers fit into the gap between the cap and the hex on the ball stud. Which made for a perfect fulcrum to then just pop the shock off the ball with practically no stress or effort. Probably lots of ways to do it though. You just need to rig something to provide something to push against.

[WestTxRc]

Went Ahead and Bought the Traxxas Rod Ends Part # TRA1942
Anyone kno what Size Diameter All-thread will fit these ends?
Any info would be gladly needed...

[sickpuppy1]

I'm pretty sure it 6/32

[WestTxRc]

Ok thanks alot, Didnt want to get wrong size althread. I ordered some losi Mrc rod ends and also some Traxxas rod ends so should be good to go.

[HARDKNOCKZ]

Originally Posted by WAM

JD if you don't like that approach, nobody's twisting your arm. It makes sense to me to do some research and learn and benefit from the previous efforts of others. But it's just a valid place to start, not something to marry. Never said it was. I don't think I've ever said "build Jake's rig and you'll get Jake's results."

And I said "I" wouldn't shorten links to make room for trick steering. It was a personal opinion...and still is. If I want to play with steering I'd probably try to construct a BTA that works with the longer links. Not currently a priority.

You're advising people to all do their own thing. When you have someone who's asking how to build links, it's pretty likely he doesn't yet have a "thing" to build upon. I kinda suspect the skills required for effective tuning are harder to come by than skills for driving. And if you have no tuning skills yet, then changes just become random. I'll stand by my advice to start with a proven baseline -- something you can return to when mods don't work out.

C'mon Bill."I suggest you look up the build threads of DelMonte and shamelessly copy them." Doesn't really sound as if you're saying use their rigs as a baseline. I'm in agreement with you 100% as far as using someone's tricks, tweeks or setups as a STARTING POINT but to flat copy another's build may not work for someone. I was simply saying that as often as you bring up other drivers builds...it seems as though you're saying "what works for them...will work for you" and that just not the case often times. You yourself ditched the Mantis chassis because none of the 3 guys running em at nationals did well. You also kept asking Don of BWD for a place to start your build. It was a BRAND NEW design that was untested. I think you might be expecting too much from something that "this guy" did well with. That's all. I wasn't trying to beat you up buddy.

Sorry for the little thread jack WestTexRC.

J.D.

[WAM]

The 1942's are intended for 3mm, somewhat smaller than 6-32. If you can't find 3mm threaded rod (mcmaster.com) 4-40 is a better fit.

PM on the other thing.