Cheap Mod for Center mounting a Mini Servo on Pro MRC

[evilunclefred]

I know RCBROS makes a really nice center mount servo plate but I was at my LHS and wanted to see what I could come up with. I took a rtr servo plate(LOSB1421) and removed the front servo post screw from the bottom on each side. Then I drilled the hole the screw came out of a little bigger to fit a long ball stud(LOSB1444). Using the ball stud with a spacer, I screwed it back in and was able to fit it on my pro and still use my stock upper links. Best of all, no interference with my bent lower links.

Cheap mod, not sure if anyone else has done this. I did a quick search but didn't find anything. Unlike RCBROS plate, you can only use mini servos.

[calikingcrawler]

Can you post some pictures from above and below? I run the BWD plate but always lookin for cheap mods for the pro I am building my daughter.

[Gambolified]

Here is what I did to mine while I wait for my rcbros to get here. Not exactly center but works.

All you need is a dremel and a small drill bit. Cut the brace for the batt strap on the bottom of the plate, the screw to the left post will fit right in there. You can use a washer if you like. Move your servo where you want and drill the hole. The dremel comes in handy because you have to remove some material from the top of the plate for the posts to sit flush.

[evilunclefred]

By jeffl7919


By jeffl7919

Sorry about the cell phone pics, they are terrible. And I was feeling lazy so I didn't tear the front end apart to get a clearer shot.

Simply put, all you're really doing is replace the front servo mount screw with the long ball stud. I have a way of making things sound more complicated than they really are. It's a gift.

[Hardline]

Why is centering the servo a good thing? If anything, I would think moving it to the right side might help with torque twist. I assume Losi put it on the left so the relatively heavy battery would be on the right.

[Gambolified]

I centered the servo because the wheels would rub it.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by Gambolified

I centered the servo because the wheels would rub it.

+1, especially if you run a full size servo like a 7955. It will rub the left front tire a lot unless you center the servo on the front axle.

[Hardline]

Ummm, mine doesn't (7950). Okay, it rubbed one of the screw heads some until I dremeled it a little. But I've still got stock pro steering. I guess I'd have to make more clearance if I improved the steering angle somehow. I guess I'd also have to reduce or eliminate the front shock outboarding because I'm currently up against those too.

Still, moving the servo over makes it impossible to axle-mount the battery. That seems like a loss.

[Charlie-III]

The little LiPO I run weighs almost nothing, thus it makes no difference to me.

[Hardline]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

The little LiPO I run weighs almost nothing, thus it makes no difference to me.

That sounds way too sensible. I'm used to people posting that changing out a 28g aluminum crossbrace for 25g delrin made it a whole new truck, now doing previously impossible lines.

But now, what about my other point, that it would make most sense to move the servo to the right front, just clear of the tire? For TT.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by Hardline

That sounds way too sensible. I'm used to people posting that changing out a 28g aluminum crossbrace for 25g delrin made it a whole new truck, now doing previously impossible lines.

But now, what about my other point, that it would make most sense to move the servo to the right front, just clear of the tire? For TT.

Sensible, me??!!
Yes, add up enough little weights & it means something. I'm not really good enough to notice, at least not yet.

Biasing the weight of the servo to help with torque twist, but not to the expense of tire clearance. I know some rub on small servos, a full size servo will rub more. Thus I feel it's worth getting it closer to center for tire clearance. Remember, the full size servos will stick out more forward & aft of the servo mount. This means less clearance for the tire at/near full lock.