Need advice/opinions

[Rooney7783]

Pic in 2nd post now.




I started this thread in the scale forum as well but it's gotten slow and I'm kinda in a rush (typical). I'd repost the pic here but I'm at work and can't access my photobucket acct. If y'all would be so kind as to click the link and check out the last pic (post #13) and let me know if it looks retarded. If it makes a difference, I will comp cut it if I decide to keep it. I'm at a standstill till I get the body mounted or leave it alone all together. Thanks.

Opinions please

Also, what can I use to outboard the shocks on the stock frame? Do I just drill the holes larger to accept the shock ball?

[Rooney7783]

Figured out I could just copy the whole post and get the image link from there (I'm getting old I guess). Anyway, here it is. And please, any opinion, good or bad, is desired.


This is as low as I can possibly get it without cutting out the shifters and part of the seat bottoms. Any lower and the servo is gonna start interfering with the grill as well. How does it look? Looks nothing like I had hoped but I'd like some second opinions. I know with a new frame and everything else I could do a better job but I hadn't wanted to go that far.

[Rooney7783]

32 views and no one has an opinion?

[Koch1ar]

As is I'd say it looks like poop. Cut out everything in the wheel
Wells

[Rooney7783]

Originally Posted by Koch1ar

As is I'd say it looks like poop. Cut out everything in the wheel
Wells

Thank you for the reply. I had planned on cutting all the wheel well stuff out but was waiting till I got the height right. I got it a tad lower but the bottom of the grill hits the servo. I think that this body may work in the hands of a better fabricator but if I keep at it, it'll end up being a hacked up piece of shit. I haven't given up all hope but I'm damn close.

[calikingcrawler]

I think it would look sick if you got rid of the stuff in the fenderwell. Shorten the WB a hair and comp cut the rear. Make a scale ish chassis and tuck the trans up under the seats to get it as low as possible.

Or sell me the body and I'll do it.

[calikingcrawler]

If you sell it I'll take it. Got a front view?

[Rooney7783]

Originally Posted by calikingcrawler

I think it would look sick if you got rid of the stuff in the fenderwell. Shorten the WB a hair and comp cut the rear. Make a scale ish chassis and tuck the trans up under the seats to get it as low as possible.

Or sell me the body and I'll do it.

I had debated shortening the WB but I don't have the equipment. I sold off all my junk years ago and this is my first efforts to get back into the hobby, so I'm at a miss as to what all I would need. Doesn't help that the nearest hobby shop is over an hour away (the local one is a guy that only sells traxxas nitro stuff). I'd have to shorten it though since the grill rests on the servo at ride height (if I move tub forward it looks dumb, same if I move it back). I don't wanna cut the grill but I'm unable to shorten the wheelbase. I had forgotten how much harder the rc stuff is to deal with than the 1:1 stuff. So how would one shorten the WB?

I wonder if I shortened the grill if it would look stupid?

Originally Posted by calikingcrawler

If you sell it I'll take it. Got a front view?

I can get one but I wouldn't sell the body. Check out ebay, they have these on there all day for $20 ish and they usually have the windshields. That's why I didn't mind cutting up this one since I can get another so cheap.




So is the consensus to chop out all the fenderwell stuff? Front and back? The white part in the rear is the inner fenders on the inside (plastic). All that will get painted at some point.

[calikingcrawler]

Don't hack the grill. The cool thing about scalers is you can do a chassis mounted servo. Make a custom Delrin or flat steel chassis and mount the servo up under the hood. As for shortening the WB once you make a custom chassis you can make the chassis side link mounts wherever you want so you can use the same links if you want.

[calikingcrawler]

Cut as much out ofthe rear as you can without getting into the interior. You make have to run droop in the rear tho

[Rooney7783]

Originally Posted by calikingcrawler

Don't hack the grill. The cool thing about scalers is you can do a chassis mounted servo. Make a custom Delrin or flat steel chassis and mount the servo up under the hood. As for shortening the WB once you make a custom chassis you can make the chassis side link mounts wherever you want so you can use the same links if you want.

Unfortunately, I am certain that is beyond my capabilities right now. Now if there were one I could modify that would be better. Is there a metal scale chassis I could shorten? I know about the scx10 but I don't know if it's metal. I really have done no research into scale chassis'. I was really really hoping I could just get the tub to work on the stock mrc. I have little rc skill and even less time. I gotta say though, coming home and problem solving on this is a big stress reliever for me, just want it running again.

[Rooney7783]

Originally Posted by calikingcrawler

Cut as much out ofthe rear as you can without getting into the interior. You make have to run droop in the rear tho

The rear will, without a doubt, be comp cut. That was the idea from the get go. The body is metal, the blue stuff. Any white you see is the plastic interior. The inner wheel wells on the rear are far enough in I shouldn't have to cut them, just the blue metal.



I really appreciate all this input guys. Y'alls advice is encouraging me to get out of bed and go work on it some more.

Edit: I took a couple more pics of tonights trimming. I just bought a star so I can post em at work tomorrow. Thanks again for the help.

[Rooney7783]

As promised here are some pics. You can see where I've started to cut away at the floor. I'm still wracking my brain on the servo/grill issue.

[Rooney7783]

Here is the big issue I'm running into. The grill is sitting on the servo as you can see in the first pic (it's not level I know). The easiest solution would be to chop the grill but in the second pic you can see how much I'd have to chop off (the taped portion. I really don't want to move the body or alter the WB as I really like the proportions. What would y'all do?

[calikingcrawler]

I wouldn't cutthe grill. It will ruin the scale look. Take the servo off the axle. Cut out the front inner fenderwells. Fab a servo mount to mount the servo against the inside of the grill or where the drivers fenderwell was. Will hide the servo and give you clearance.

[Rooney7783]

Originally Posted by calikingcrawler

I wouldn't cutthe grill. It will ruin the scale look. Take the servo off the axle. Cut out the front inner fenderwells. Fab a servo mount to mount the servo against the inside of the grill or where the drivers fenderwell was. Will hide the servo and give you clearance.

Would love to....but I have no hobby shop to get supplies from and my tool collection is basically a dremel and some needle nose pliers . I'm thinking of cutting it, I realized if this were my 1:1 I'd have cut it long ago, do what has to be done for function. And I'm thinking that it'll still look like a jeep, just with a short grill

[kunas]

Originally Posted by Rooney7783

Unfortunately, I am certain that is beyond my capabilities right now. Now if there were one I could modify that would be better. Is there a metal scale chassis I could shorten? I know about the scx10 but I don't know if it's metal. I really have done no research into scale chassis'. I was really really hoping I could just get the tub to work on the stock mrc. I have little rc skill and even less time. I gotta say though, coming home and problem solving on this is a big stress reliever for me, just want it running again.

TCS makes a scale chassis for the mrc l-trail Ron

[Rooney7783]

Originally Posted by kunas

TCS makes a scale chassis for the mrc l-trail Ron

I found that and I'm interested but it says it's the sideplates only and I'm either blind or retarded because I don't see where to get the crossmembers, or does it use the factory skid plate?

[the_ghetto_rig]

Originally Posted by Rooney7783

Unfortunately, I am certain that is beyond my capabilities right now.

Don't sell yourself short. All of us who have had to build chassis to fit odd-sized bodies can attest to the fact that our capabilities developed as we measured, cut, built, tested and repeated.
And you don't need a hobby store to get your materials. Go to your local home improvement store and pick up a small piece of Lexan (around $7) in the window section. You can cut a few sets of chassis rails and mounts out of that.
Search some of the scale threads where people built their chassis from scratch and you will get info on link placement / geometry, etc.

Here's a pic of the lexan cab I built for my MRC Pro. At 2.5mm thick it is both light and sturdy..


Hope that helps..

[the_ghetto_rig]

And to be quite honest, I would not use that body, and for a few reasons:

• Wheelbase is TOO short. The stock tires would be practically touching front to rear (if set-up as a scaler in wheelwells)...
• Metal bodied trucks are hard to run. They are incredibly heavy and need to be run with a droop set-up to keep the weight as low as possible..

Here's a pic of my first metal-bodied Axial based scaler: