New project

[Phylodog]

I've got an unassembled Orlandoo F150 kit and just got this New Bright Ram in yesterday. I think I can use the chassis from the Orlandoo but I'm going to have to figure out a way to lengthen the rear links.





I looked into micro tap & die sets but I'm not sure I want to spend $50 on one. I probably should, I don't see this being the last project I work on so I'm sure I'd get use out of it. I was thinking I could thread piano wire and make longer links like those that come with the Orlandoo kit. I've got a 2.2g servo coming, another set of the Losi Micro DT tires and micro DT shocks to use on it also.

I have a set of the metal axles on the way from China to use also. Who knows when they'll show up though.

[Brake Weight]

Have you checked fleaBay China for tap/die sets? I got a LH and RH m3 for $1 each.

[Phylodog]

I have. I'm not sure what size threads the links have but I suspect its 1.something. I figure if I had a set I could figure out what they are, just not sure I want to spend that much.

[Brake Weight]

I made links for my Fungi Goat using the ball ends and plain stainless rod. Crimped some dimples on the ends with wire cutters and wicked super glue into the ball end. There's not much torque or abuse on these micros.

[Phylodog]

I'm having a hard time picturing it, got any pics?

[Brake Weight]

Not the best pics. I used Gorilla glue the first time and they held good. But that glue was hard to get all the way into the bottom of the ends. I made a jig because GGlue expands. The rod is a stainless Muskie leader I found on fleaBay with next day shipping.

[Phylodog]

Thanks for the pics. Do those attach to the same ball heads that come with the Orlandoo kits?

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by Phylodog

Thanks for the pics. Do those attach to the same ball heads that come with the Orlandoo kits?

No. Those are the Losi Micro ball ends. IIRC, the Orlandoo ends are a pass though type where the ball goes. Those pics don't show where I used a pair of wire cutters to cut some marks for the glue to bite on. I also used a bolt to thread the plastic ends so there's be more to bite with the glue.

Fungi has a little DIY on his site.
http://lynxmicrotech.com/parts/

[Phylodog]

Awesome thank you

[Brake Weight]

No problem. I've got the f150 one done and have a Jeep one to do. Just no time for the little ones lately with all the 1:10s I've been wrenching on.

[Brake Weight]

I've also been eyeballing those 1:24 trucks at Walmart. The Dodge is the best looking one to me, too. That one or the Raptor.

[Phylodog]

I decided to fiddle with what I had (a nice option given how cheap replacement parts are) and moved the locations of the ball studs. I shaved away some of the rear drive shaft cover on the chassis and moved the ball studs back approx 5mm from their original locations. I had to relieve some material in the opening that the links pass through on the chassis to allow for full upward travel of the axle.



For the lower links I contemplated attaching a piece of delrin to the bottom of the chassis to allow for the same angle on the ball studs but decided to give this a shot first. There is plenty of material to drill and thread the ball studs into the bottom of the chassis so I decided to give it a shot. I simply turned the rod ends 90* to accommodate the new locations.



Articulation doesn't seem to have been negatively effected, I may actually have to use straps or something to limit the travel but I'm waiting to get the shocks installed before I worry about that, might not be necessary.





The wheelbase looks a touch long but once the shocks are on and its lifted up to normal ride height I think it'll be right or danger close.



The next hurdle is finding a way to lengthen the drive shaft. It might be long enough to stay in once the shocks are in place to limit the travel but it's going to be close. I'd prefer to find a way to lengthen it a few mm just to be safe. I'm also going to have to drill through the bed to allow the shock towers to stick through. I'd rather not but I don't think there's any way around it.

[cleanandserenesteve]

Here is what I did to lengthen the driveshaft. You can do the same with the stock plastic ones: go to post #12. And my results are a little further down.

Orlandoo steel Driveshafts for micro crawler?

[Phylodog]

Got the alloy axles, 2.2g servo and Losi Micro DT shocks and wheels/tires mocked up today. I still need to extend the back axle farther to the rear but the rod ends are almost locked all the way down so I'm hoping I've got enough adjustment left that I won't have to further modify anything. I'm using the longer Losi Micro DT shocks so I had to angle the front shocks forward and I installed ball head studs in the upper front corner of the wheel well. I clipped a couple coils off of the springs on the rear to level it out a bit. I'm pretty pleased with how smoothly it articulates. I may end up adding a little weight to the chassis to allow it to work against the springs a bit more but overall I think its coming along nicely.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEeTZ_YHqeM

[Phylodog]

Lengthened the wheelbase a bit more and I think I've got it. I bought an alloy drive shaft and it's a bit longer than the plastic one was so I don't think I'm going to have to fool with lengthening it (fingers crossed).

Starting bending and gluing on the fender flares this evening.



Trying to replicate my 1:1

[Phylodog]

I finished up the flares and finally got some decent weather to paint the body. I put three coats of flat white and two coats of clear. I started hand painting the black accents on this evening. Not perfect but my eyes and hands aren't what they used to be.





Here's a video of my 1:1 and Vaterra copy that I'm now trying to replicate at 1:24.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLiM73okEL4

[Phylodog]

Forgot to update that I cut out the headlights and taillights. I've put together a vacuum form box and I'm planning to try to use proto-putty to make molds and form new lights. I also want to try to make a new set of windows but I don't think the proto-putty is going to be strong enough to hold its shape on a piece that large.

[cleanandserenesteve]

that is awesome. Nice to see another body on Orlandoos other than the Jeep and Ford