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02-24-2010, 09:05 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 46
| 6x6 big rig recovery truck
Just got rolling on my first scale rig. First, the specs: Chassis: Tamiya Globeliner Big rig (short semi chassis) Motor: Tamiya standard 540 can (change to 55t? ) Transmission: Tamiya 3-spd ESC: Traxxas XL-5 waterproof Radio: Spektrum DX3S Planned mods: TLT-1 powered front axle 1.9" wheels with Flat Irons or RC4WD Flashpoints Elongate walking beam to accommodate larger wheel diameter RC4WD R2 2spd dig transmission Working crane Planned body: Fallout 3/military style - post-apocalyptic survival truck Flatbed with A-frame crane B-17 Betty cab (suitable to 1950s era) Improvised appliqué armour Headlights and roof lights The bare chassis: B17 Betty body fits nicely! Building a new understructure Cab and bed installed Bed rear view Comparing a TLT-1 axle to the front semi axle Converting to the TLT-1 axle will require several modifications:
Last edited by tetracanth; 05-31-2010 at 12:53 AM. Reason: To change title to mark it finished |
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02-25-2010, 06:42 PM | #2 |
Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 46
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Started mounting the new front axle today. Using parts left over from my AX10 build. It's a droop setup using the stock ax10 shocks, which are a bit too long, but they'll do for the moment. I'm trying to use parts that are in my leftovers bin to keep the cost of this project down. Added today: TLT-1 Axle 4-link front suspension w/ AX10 bent links AX10 shocks w/internal springs (droop setup) RC4WD R2 2-spd transmission w/ dig Hitec HS645MG steering servo The TLT-1 axle in place Side profile Underneath The AX10 shocks are too long - I'll have to find something better. Also, the current position of the transmission leaves only a very small gap between the rear of the tranny and the middle axle - not enough for a pair of universals. I may have to move the tranny forward or move the axles backward. The rear axles may have to be moved anyway if I'm mounting tires that are 4.2" in diameter. The links are also longer than I'd like. I need to get a 3mm tap and some aluminium tube stock if I'm going to make some shorter ones. I also flipped the rear axles over so that the front axle can be right-way-up and everything turns in the same direction - thanks to stevehastings on scale4x4rc for that idea. |
02-25-2010, 07:25 PM | #3 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Easley
Posts: 85
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I like it alot.I want to do a recovery rig or trail ready shop truck.
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02-25-2010, 07:28 PM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope.
Posts: 5,013
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looks good,,also looks like you upper links on the front axle need to slightly shorter to get your caster angle better,,,you can simply cut the Axial links then thread a Black Oxide M3 screw into the end of the link and it rethread it,,,ive done it many times
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02-25-2010, 07:30 PM | #5 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Des Moines
Posts: 39
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Try a Tamiya F350 Highlift front axle it'll fit better then the TLT-1 axle
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02-26-2010, 12:48 AM | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose
Posts: 1,697
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looking good. you going to stick with styrene or going to do metal bed?
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02-26-2010, 10:32 AM | #7 |
Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 46
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It'll be mostly styrene: I don't have the tools or workspace for sheet metal work. I'll be using brass tube and aluminium to reinforce the roll bar and crane.
Last edited by tetracanth; 02-26-2010 at 10:35 AM. |
02-26-2010, 11:29 AM | #8 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Long Island-Land of one batch of rocks in Sag Harbor and at least one fellow crawler
Posts: 1,371
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Very cool build. The Axial body/cab looks sweet on there! Nice job on the front axle conversion. |
02-26-2010, 12:47 PM | #9 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Bay Area
Posts: 47
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Looks good. How are you ensuring that the gear ratio of you front axel is the same as the two rear? |
02-26-2010, 04:20 PM | #10 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: East Mids, UK
Posts: 362
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Nice project. I've always liked the look of the recovery trucks.
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02-26-2010, 07:48 PM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 46
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@shambrick - I was worried about this until I found out that TLT axles and semi axles use the exact same diff ring and pinion gears - apparently one is just a modified version of the other. The ratio is 2.66:1
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02-27-2010, 02:26 AM | #12 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose
Posts: 1,697
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03-01-2010, 09:43 AM | #13 |
Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 46
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Minor update: cut out the grille and headlight openings, fabricated a military-style louvered grille to match, complete with bullet holes. The headlight openings are ready for a pair of Proline light buckets with LEDs |
03-11-2010, 12:05 AM | #14 |
Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 46
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Got some stuff from RC4WD in the mail:
New shocks up front, much better length (they can compress now) 12mm axle extenders on the rear two axles get closer to matching the front's width You can see the rear axles widths are better now. Width's good, next we work on the lengthwise positioning of the rear axles. |
03-11-2010, 10:17 AM | #15 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Bruceton, TN
Posts: 55
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Hmm, I never thought of using the betty body as a semi cab, but it looks great. I really like what your building here. From the looks of that bullet hole, your gonna need a new radiator. |
03-11-2010, 06:50 PM | #16 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Hell
Posts: 399
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This thing looks sick great idea and work |
03-13-2010, 12:54 PM | #17 |
Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 46
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Flat Irons and HPI stock car wheels arrived yesterday, haven't had time to do much more than a test-fit. Looking the way I wanted, obviously the rear suspension is not ready so the tires rub each other and the ride height is low in the back. Also got some aluminium for links and long set screws so I can get cracking on the walking beam. A small problem: the 1.9" flat irons don't appear to fit tightly on the 1.9" hpi stock car wheels I bought: the inner part of the bead on the tires is wider than the bead groove on the wheels. Do I have to trim it down? It's preventing the tires from seating into the wheels fully. |
03-13-2010, 01:18 PM | #18 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Unnecessary Surgery Land
Posts: 3,406
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The outer lip is shorter than the back lip on those wheels. Your tire is seated all the way, but you are going to have some bead showing. Those are the 0 offsets right? Have you trimmed the 2 inner rings off the wheels? I did that for a better fit with mine.
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03-13-2010, 02:27 PM | #19 |
Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 46
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Aha, okay, that helps alot: I have not trimmed the inner rings off. Those are 31mm wide, 6mm offset wheels on the rear axles and 27mm, 0mm offset on the front axle.
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03-13-2010, 11:33 PM | #20 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose
Posts: 1,697
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that body is 1/6th scale?
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