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06-23-2008, 09:49 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: snohomish
Posts: 6
| can some one give tell me how to bild a scale AX10 frame
if someone one please tell how and give me the plans? i do know that i am going to use 8th inch aluminum plate i gust need the diminshins of it thank u
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06-23-2008, 10:13 PM | #2 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Windsor/Detroit/Edmonton CANADA
Posts: 55
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I'll get right on that!
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06-23-2008, 10:59 PM | #3 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: crawlifornia
Posts: 1,612
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well little buddy, what do you want to make it scale to? After what vehicle? That would be very helpful in suggesting some dimensions. If you just want a basic chassis, no bending, I recomend 12-13 inch long place 3-4 inches apart and go from there. | |
06-24-2008, 10:53 AM | #4 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: St. Louis (High Ridge)
Posts: 1,279
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Easy, 1: pick out your body, 2: determine your wheelbase, (i traced out the body and fender edges onto 3 sheets of graph paper taped together) 3: figure out the ends of the frame (bumper brackets, brace for body bumper, or just over the axles) 4: decide on 4 link or leaf spring mounting positions (should go along with step 3) 5: sketch out a possible frame on the graph paper under the body trace. 6: use cardboard (like soda/beer case sides) to make a mockup. (I cut out the graph paper and taped it to the box side) 7: cut out cardboard skid plates and cross members and tape it all together. 8: put it under the body with your axles and trans and see if you like the layout. 9: take the mockup back apart and trace it onto your chassis material (nylon cutting board, street sign, etc.) 10: cut out the chassis pieces, file them to match eachother. 11: clamp the pieces together and then drill the holes, the holes line up better that way. 12: bolt everything together. 13: lather rinse repeat. satisfaction not guarranteed, cancel anytime, operators will be unhelpful and put you on hold. |
06-24-2008, 11:51 AM | #5 | |
PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler
Posts: 13,137
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06-24-2008, 02:19 PM | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: St. Louis (High Ridge)
Posts: 1,279
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Thanks grizz, I started out trying to be a smart azz, but then remembered one of my friends who didn't know the difference between a slotted and phillips screwdriver was and thought, heck, maybe people do need help with this. It is a method that works for me. I have to make a chassis for one of my other projects, maybe I'll just document that part of the build. |
06-25-2008, 11:59 AM | #7 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Clay, Alabama
Posts: 74
| Frame method Maybe people do need help with this. Some of us really do. I've built a bunch of stuff in my life but 1/10 truck frames is not one of them. I found your method very helpful. Thanks. In reference to step 10. What would you think about bending the frame from 1/2 square tubing and then cutting it apart down the middle? This seems to be a popular method. Last edited by Douginala; 06-25-2008 at 12:03 PM. |
06-25-2008, 01:00 PM | #8 |
Nope.. Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Whiteland, Indiana
Posts: 1,849
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Unless you have heat for the bending and a VERY stable cutting device, you'll either have to take 12 hours to cut it, or you'll be SUPER pissed like I was. I'd recommend seeing if a metal shop can rip it in half if you don't have a saw to do it yourself.
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06-25-2008, 05:22 PM | #9 | |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: snohomish
Posts: 6
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Last edited by Codyzkid; 06-25-2008 at 05:28 PM. | |
06-25-2008, 05:26 PM | #10 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: In A Nut Shell
Posts: 626
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Thats what i was gonig to do untill i got stumped on how to safely rip the peace in half, all that kept popping in my head was me missing up and a thumb laying on the ground. | |
06-25-2008, 05:49 PM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: snohomish
Posts: 6
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06-25-2008, 06:30 PM | #12 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: St. Louis (High Ridge)
Posts: 1,279
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for step number 10, which is for the TVP style chassis, but can work on the bent tubing I made a bent tube using 1/2" box steel from lowes, but I had access to a sheetmetal shop, used a diacro bender, and a big bandsaw to cut it in half, after drilling the holes. If I had to do it with hand tools, I would heat the square tubing with a mapp gas torch to do the bends, using a hammer to ease the metal and keep it flat (left to right) while bending it (up and down) then I'd drill all the hole I think I'd need, skid plate, trans mounts, servo mounts, crossmembers, 4link mounts, spring perch mounts, etc. I would then put a metal bade in a jig saw (saber saw) and then clamp the saw in the vise and lock it on, the hold the bent tube and guide it along the foot of the saw, which is now a little table. |
06-25-2008, 08:04 PM | #13 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Sidney, OH
Posts: 190
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06-25-2008, 09:55 PM | #14 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: snohomish
Posts: 6
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this is the type of chassis that i am going to try to build i disiend it on graph paper but its a little differnt but it will be way cool when its done i will try post pics in a few days oh ya its a little thiker than 8th inch its like dobble the thik ness once this ones done i will make some outa 8th inch and if thay come out good than i will sell them maby i am also goin to cut them with a ban saw and sand all the edges .... http://www.tcscrawlers.com/MFM-Racin...r-p-16142.html Last edited by Codyzkid; 06-26-2008 at 12:22 AM. |
06-26-2008, 11:19 AM | #15 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Clay, Alabama
Posts: 74
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This has developed into a really good thread. Very helpful. Maybe we can back up a little and let me ask a couple of questions. 1- If we go with TVP (twin vertical plate) it should be great for crawling but won't it lose some of the "scale" look that we're after? 2- Even though the very low frame center is mostly hidden by the cab, it's not very "scale". Am I correct that this is necessary to have room to mount the motor and transmission? Or is there another way? 3- For a scale off-road truck wouldn't the channel frame be more desirable? I'm looking for a picture or two of what I would call a "really scale" off-road frame. When (and if) I find such a thing I'll send it on. |
06-26-2008, 11:34 AM | #16 |
Debunking old stereotypes Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: 1st and Amistad
Posts: 2,260
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Something like this? |
06-26-2008, 11:39 AM | #17 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Clay, Alabama
Posts: 74
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06-26-2008, 12:01 PM | #18 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: St. Louis (High Ridge)
Posts: 1,279
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or this? |
06-26-2008, 12:09 PM | #19 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Clay, Alabama
Posts: 74
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Now we're talking, hair. Great proportions, leaf springs. This is great. How much of this is scratch? What is your source for the axles and the springs? How long is the frame end to end? I appreciate you being patient with all these questions. |
06-26-2008, 01:22 PM | #20 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: St. Louis (High Ridge)
Posts: 1,279
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lined it up on graph paper tracing out a parma gravedigger panel truck bent it up, drilled it and sliced it with a bandsaw Jugg leak packs, WK axles, 13.5" wb which is 108" in 1:8 scale. got a bunch of plastic in a box at an auction, lot of nylon and some delrin. I'm using 3.5" wide delrin, and used the same bandsaw to make 1/4" slices the slices fit inside the C of the frame rail, drilled holes and screwed it together with chassis screws for a WK. End to end I think is about 22" long which translates to about 14'-8" in 1:8 scale. |
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