RCCrawler Forums

lizard017 · 08-02-2008, 02:01 PM

i think ive learned enough to not be a noob, but ive made my ax10 almost comp worthy, but, how and the hell to get rid of the torque twist, iv tried a stiffer spring on the front right, already, but whats the trick with top links, which one do i put on top of the mount and how much hogher does it need to be

A_Jeeper · 08-02-2008, 02:29 PM

I don't have an ax10, but on my wk I could cut it down by getting the lower shock mounts as low as possible. That just what I have found on mine.

Kamikaze · 08-02-2008, 02:34 PM

Here is the best way....

drzjohn · 08-02-2008, 02:37 PM

you need to put the stiffer spring in the rear left to prevent torque twist, also thicker grade oil in that shock.

lizard017 · 08-02-2008, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kamikaze

Here is the best way....

just as soon as i get some money, what , in you opinion is the recamended chassis for'em, tube and reg chassis,m by the way i loved youe copperhead 3.0, thing was sick, with a front end like that it didnt need clocked, did it?

Fat_Jesus · 08-03-2008, 12:09 AM

try losi whites in the front, pink in the RR and a red in the LR that helps out alot and get rid of the stock shocks try losi's or even t-maxx shocks

Dynamic^Cipher · 08-18-2008, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kamikaze

Here is the best way....

Thats a great way to trade torque twist for clod stall

barbaricboye · 08-18-2008, 06:10 PM

so, there is no way to fix the torque twist? just hide it, right?......i mean stiffer spring and heavy oil will affect the articulation.....

Dynamic^Cipher · 08-18-2008, 06:58 PM

To answer your question from the initial post, the side that has the front wheel rising will have the lower link in the rear. For distance I think most people just use right on the bottom of the 4 link plate and left on top.

XPLORx4 · 08-18-2008, 07:15 PM

Heavier shock oil will lessen the effect of torque twist because it will take longer for the chassis to twist (since the shock compresses more slowly). Articulation won't be as affected, because articulation usually moves the shocks much slower. A stiffer spring will affect articulation a little, but you'll probably have to experiment with different springs on different corners, spacers, etc. to get the right balance of articulation and anti-torque twist for your liking.

At the moment, I'm running stock RTR shocks and oil (whatever it comes with), but I put medium (green) springs in the front, and 2 of the big spacers on the left rear shock, so that the left rear is compressed. It's worked OK for the time being, but just about everything else on my chassis is still stock, so I'll probably need to make further adjustments to balance out torque twist vs articulation as I make more mods.

Mav-1981 · 08-18-2008, 08:01 PM

I no longer have a problem with torque twist. One thing to remember, do the adjusments for the in the rear, trying to mess with the front to do it will hurt performance.

Here's the simple things I did to get rid of most of it, but you will NEVER get rid of all of it, especially when nailing the throttle hard.

One thing, dont go higher than a 55T motor, I tried higher and just makes things a disaster for TT. Also, flip your trans around. Motor should be on the right side, not left (referencing as if in the driver's seat). Granted stock and some upgrade parts force you to put it on the left side (which means the designers didnt do their homework) if the motor stays on the left die, its going to twist no matter what you do, and as they all said here, stiffer spring in left rear with a little thicker shock oil. if you are having a problem with the front wheels not dropping, a lot of that is lack of weight in the front axle area, from battery pack to weight in the wheels. If you have an axle mounted pack, wheel wieghts are a must because there is no weight in the chassis anymore to force the articulation. ALso, SOFT springs up front. There is POSSIBLY many things that are aiding that problem that are things that changing them would greatly improve performance.

Hope that helps.

cuzican · 08-18-2008, 08:46 PM

I run my motor swapped around, (pinion gear towards the front, can to the rear) and I run Axial red supersoft springs in the front and the right rear with the stock spring from the kit in the left rear with a 1/4 inch preload spacer. Works pretty good for me. I also run 8oz. in each from tire.

Harvo · 08-18-2008, 08:59 PM

Raise you rear pinion angle and point it straight at the tranny... then go just a hair above straight. It works like magic.

littleWOJIN · 08-18-2008, 09:18 PM

i went to a droop suspension on mine, with the four link mount. i only get a little bit of torque twist when going up step inclines

Shaun · 08-18-2008, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lizard017

i think ive learned enough to not be a noob, but ive made my ax10 almost comp worthy, but, how and the hell to get rid of the torque twist, iv tried a stiffer spring on the front right, already, but whats the trick with top links, which one do i put on top of the mount and how much hogher does it need to be

Try your links in Reverse Triangulated form.

I'll upload a picture for you in the morning.

Wild Snapper · 08-18-2008, 10:16 PM

CKRC's stage 2 kit helps out alot in my opinion. A little work to drill holes in the chassis but combined with a stiffer rear left spring and some weight up front it can work wonders.

mtnyote · 08-18-2008, 10:52 PM

I HAVE VIRTUALLY NO TORQUE TWIST

its a beautiful thing

research reverse triangulation, that is the key

i am running soft springs in every corner with 30 weight, an 11.1 lipo with high gearing and torque twist is not an issue at all. do research on reverse triangulation and lengthen your uppers.

88toyota88 · 08-18-2008, 11:44 PM

If you still have this problem, do a mirror tranny. i dont get any torque twist after i did that to mine.

Dynamic^Cipher · 08-19-2008, 12:32 AM

Can you please provide a pic of exactly what you mean by reverse triangulation, or failing that a detailed description of the changes.

oberon crawler · 08-19-2008, 01:09 AM

I, OBERON CRAWLER, ONCE AND FOR ALL HAVE THE ANSWER TO SHAFT TORQUE TWIST........

Two counter rotating shafts per axle, each drive shaft driving one wheel.

That's it no more hiding it under the carpet of non symertrical links and shocks.

OR

you could just get a berg and have the added bonus of electric dig, solid axles, the flexability to run light chassis with a high GC and a low CG (something you'll never do with a shafty)
The choice is yours
GET BERGLED

08-02-2008, 02:01 PM	#1
lizard017 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: on the edge of sanity Posts: 203	torque twist i think ive learned enough to not be a noob, but ive made my ax10 almost comp worthy, but, how and the hell to get rid of the torque twist, iv tried a stiffer spring on the front right, already, but whats the trick with top links, which one do i put on top of the mount and how much hogher does it need to be

08-19-2008, 01:09 AM	#20
oberon crawler Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Australia Posts: 151	I, OBERON CRAWLER, ONCE AND FOR ALL HAVE THE ANSWER TO SHAFT TORQUE TWIST........ Two counter rotating shafts per axle, each drive shaft driving one wheel. That's it no more hiding it under the carpet of non symertrical links and shocks. OR you could just get a berg and have the added bonus of electric dig, solid axles, the flexability to run light chassis with a high GC and a low CG (something you'll never do with a shafty) The choice is yours GET BERGLED Last edited by oberon crawler; 08-19-2008 at 01:13 AM.

08-02-2008, 02:29 PM	#2
A_Jeeper Pullman Crawler Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Pullman Posts: 497	I don't have an ax10, but on my wk I could cut it down by getting the lower shock mounts as low as possible. That just what I have found on mine.

08-02-2008, 02:34 PM	#3
Kamikaze I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN Posts: 6,154	Here is the best way....

08-02-2008, 02:37 PM	#4
drzjohn Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Derbyshire UK Posts: 623	you need to put the stiffer spring in the rear left to prevent torque twist, also thicker grade oil in that shock.

08-03-2008, 12:09 AM	#6
Fat_Jesus Newbie Join Date: May 2008 Location: excelsior springs Posts: 47	try losi whites in the front, pink in the RR and a red in the LR that helps out alot and get rid of the stock shocks try losi's or even t-maxx shocks

08-18-2008, 06:10 PM	#8
barbaricboye Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Back in Sunny SoCal Posts: 210	so, there is no way to fix the torque twist? just hide it, right?......i mean stiffer spring and heavy oil will affect the articulation.....

08-18-2008, 06:58 PM	#9
Dynamic^Cipher Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: kelowna Posts: 157	To answer your question from the initial post, the side that has the front wheel rising will have the lower link in the rear. For distance I think most people just use right on the bottom of the 4 link plate and left on top.

08-18-2008, 07:15 PM	#10
XPLORx4 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Galt Posts: 282	Heavier shock oil will lessen the effect of torque twist because it will take longer for the chassis to twist (since the shock compresses more slowly). Articulation won't be as affected, because articulation usually moves the shocks much slower. A stiffer spring will affect articulation a little, but you'll probably have to experiment with different springs on different corners, spacers, etc. to get the right balance of articulation and anti-torque twist for your liking. At the moment, I'm running stock RTR shocks and oil (whatever it comes with), but I put medium (green) springs in the front, and 2 of the big spacers on the left rear shock, so that the left rear is compressed. It's worked OK for the time being, but just about everything else on my chassis is still stock, so I'll probably need to make further adjustments to balance out torque twist vs articulation as I make more mods.

08-18-2008, 08:01 PM	#11
Mav-1981 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: ICE BERG HELL Posts: 202	I no longer have a problem with torque twist. One thing to remember, do the adjusments for the in the rear, trying to mess with the front to do it will hurt performance. Here's the simple things I did to get rid of most of it, but you will NEVER get rid of all of it, especially when nailing the throttle hard. One thing, dont go higher than a 55T motor, I tried higher and just makes things a disaster for TT. Also, flip your trans around. Motor should be on the right side, not left (referencing as if in the driver's seat). Granted stock and some upgrade parts force you to put it on the left side (which means the designers didnt do their homework) if the motor stays on the left die, its going to twist no matter what you do, and as they all said here, stiffer spring in left rear with a little thicker shock oil. if you are having a problem with the front wheels not dropping, a lot of that is lack of weight in the front axle area, from battery pack to weight in the wheels. If you have an axle mounted pack, wheel wieghts are a must because there is no weight in the chassis anymore to force the articulation. ALso, SOFT springs up front. There is POSSIBLY many things that are aiding that problem that are things that changing them would greatly improve performance. Hope that helps.

08-18-2008, 08:46 PM	#12
cuzican Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Kalispell Posts: 119	I run my motor swapped around, (pinion gear towards the front, can to the rear) and I run Axial red supersoft springs in the front and the right rear with the stock spring from the kit in the left rear with a 1/4 inch preload spacer. Works pretty good for me. I also run 8oz. in each from tire.

08-18-2008, 08:59 PM	#13
Harvo I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: In the Dark Edges of your Mind Posts: 6,386	Raise you rear pinion angle and point it straight at the tranny... then go just a hair above straight. It works like magic.

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08-18-2008, 09:18 PM	#14
littleWOJIN Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Lemont Posts: 129	i went to a droop suspension on mine, with the four link mount. i only get a little bit of torque twist when going up step inclines

08-18-2008, 10:16 PM	#16
Wild Snapper Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Portland, Maine Posts: 625	CKRC's stage 2 kit helps out alot in my opinion. A little work to drill holes in the chassis but combined with a stiffer rear left spring and some weight up front it can work wonders.

08-18-2008, 10:52 PM	#17
mtnyote Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: At the Gates Posts: 462	I HAVE VIRTUALLY NO TORQUE TWIST its a beautiful thing research reverse triangulation, that is the key i am running soft springs in every corner with 30 weight, an 11.1 lipo with high gearing and torque twist is not an issue at all. do research on reverse triangulation and lengthen your uppers.

08-18-2008, 11:44 PM	#18
88toyota88 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: fresno Posts: 149	If you still have this problem, do a mirror tranny. i dont get any torque twist after i did that to mine.

08-19-2008, 12:32 AM	#19
Dynamic^Cipher Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: kelowna Posts: 157	Can you please provide a pic of exactly what you mean by reverse triangulation, or failing that a detailed description of the changes.

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Thread: torque twist