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09-19-2008, 04:52 PM
| #1 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Posts: 139
|  Never met a noob like me.
I am an offorader. Im in 2 clubs, one of which I am the prez of. I have been eyeing this site, and the whole RC Crawler thing for the past 2 years, but not in detail. So forgive me if I havnt used a search function, but I must be blind cuz I dont see one. And your crazy if you think Im going to sift threw the millions of posts by your billions of users, I already tried and it didnt work out. So common, I know you just want to hear your self talk anyways!  ANYWAY. I havent been out much due to my Jeep's incredible 2WD LOW  capabilities until she gets fixed, I needed a fix. SO I busted a nut on the Axial AX10 ARTR. Figured I'd go to a local shop and get all the electronics for it after it got here instead of adding to the shipping/border bill. PLUS i'd get someone who new what they where talking about to guide me in the ways of "servos & Speed control thingies". But now i think he may mislead me into getting things thast will break or burnout, thus making more money off me cause I am Homer Simpson in the RC world. I need to know what to look for and what to not waste time with when dealing with the local shops. So here are the questions. One last note. I am an offroader, and I know what I would like in my RC Crawler: Lots of torque! Lowest possible gear ratio! Mucho Grande POWER Senior! Looong lasting Batties!! what any man would want, so can you help work these factors into the answers to my following questions? Thanks. ** What is a Servo? What is it's function? What can it do in the ways of torque/power/longivity/low ratio? Can you recomend a very solid servo that offers the most: How can the MOTOR offer me torque/power/longivity/low ratio? What does 540t- 55t mean? What is the difference between brushed & brushless in terms of quality? Can you suggest one? What is the best motor to throw in a crawler and why? The Remote Control (prefer stick type). What, if any, gains in the means of torque/power/longivity/low ratio, can a controler give me? Can I use one I already have (New Bright 5 chnls)? What is Electronic Speed Control? Why do I need it? What does it do? How can I get torque/power/longivity/low ratio gains from it? Suggestion? The BATTERIES! I want a long ride and I dont want a really gay gradual annoying loss of power! If it starts to crap out in a half hour then that would be awsome. If it is great for 5 minutes and then starts losing power for the next 25 useless minutes, I dont want it. What are the best batteries? The TRANNY. Axial's quote "overall ratio can be adjusted from 15:1 all the way up to 74:1 using different pinion/spur gear choices which allows for super high speed or to competition level crawling speed". I want the lowest possible gear ratio, if I wanted fast I would have bought a car, not a jeep. How do you go about setting up a 74(+):1 ratio? Can you do it with the parts that come with the ARTR or do I need to pick up my own gear sets? The DIFFS. These damn axles look sweet! Do the diffs hold a gear set within the axles that I can change for an over all lower ratio? CHASSIS. Axial quote "Wheel base is adjustable from 304mm ~ 320mm". Is there any way to stretch the Wheel Base even further? 2.2 TIRES: Are all 2.2 tires the same Hieght? Where is the tire size going to start equaling in boken parts? What is the best foam and where do you get? Cant I just cut out a peice of my mattress from my girlfriends side of the bed? DRIVE SHAFTS. I know the ARTR has a design flaw at the joints connecting the DS with the diff yoke and tranny yokes. I hear you can either put zip ties aroung the joints, or get a new AM DS.(?) To prevent the DS from snapping/twisting, would it be possible to reinforce (by wrapping) the shaft with mechanics wire or some HG rebar wiring? I dont plan on competition crawling, but I dont want a gutless beater rig that is under geared, under powered, running out of juice every five minutes, breaking parts, and burning out crappy electronics every second run. Otherwise I would have bought a Chevy. No im just kidding. Relax. So if I need to build a comp crawler to stay satisfied, then so be it! I know you guys wont leave me hangin! Thanks in advance. |
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09-19-2008, 05:00 PM
| #2 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Posts: 139
|
PS> I bought this Jeep body for it: http://www.rcplanet.com/HPI_Jeep_Wra..._p/hpi7182.htm not from that site, but it was the easiest one to find. Will it fit on the AXIAL or am I going to have to sell it to somone. |
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09-19-2008, 05:44 PM
| #3 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN
Posts: 6,154
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We have 3,000 newbs like you. Search, its right there at the top right, 3 options over........If you can't find and answer here then there is no hope for you. And welcome to the madness. |
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09-19-2008, 06:15 PM
| #4 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: 517
Posts: 341
| Quote:
Okay, I'll try to help. Servo- does the steering, and/0r shifting on the truck. there are many out there that are good but the very best is the Airtronics "M"onster Servo Electric motors- power the truck, the power they put out is measures in turns; how many times the strands of wire wrap around the armature, a good rule of thumb is- the higher the turns, the more power and the more runtime. Generally brushless (BL) aren't as widely used because they simply arn't as smooth as brushed motors. A good motor choice would be around a 55t, check out www.holmeshobbies.com for more info. on all electronics. Remote control- does nothing for runtime or power, simply guides the rig, you will not be able to use the newbright controller. The esc- controls the speed of the motor with the signals that come from the receiver, a couple of great choices are; mamba max, sidewinder, rooster crawler edition, Tekin FXR, and many others. Batteries- any lipo battery that fits into your truck will do, you'll need a lipo specific charger to charge them. Another option is 2/3A cells, a 10 cell pack gives me 45- 60 min.s of runtime with no loss in power. tranny- Should be the perfect gearing already. You could go lower but you will find a small amount of wheelspeed helps "bump" you up and over some difficult spots Axles- yes they hold a gearset but it is not interchangible, it already gives the optimal ratio anyway, I understand you wanting low gearing but the ARTR is a dedicated crawler that axial spent a lot of r&d on so the ratios are spot on already. chassis- simply lenthen the links and get longer d-shafts Tires- not all the same height, panther cougars are a great choice, very tall and the new HPI's are supossed to be the tallest yet. Foams should come with the tires, foam setup depends on driving style and tires. By all means use the foam matress though  DS- If you use the ziptie method your DS should hold up just fine, them snapping is usually caused by bad DS angle anyway, besides, if one snaps they are like 1$ each... Hope this helps P.S. The more awesome and more experienced should feel free to correct me in areas where I am wrong without worrying if they are going to make me feel bad  Last edited by coolkidjf7; 09-19-2008 at 06:18 PM. | |
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09-20-2008, 12:03 AM
| #5 |
| Newbie Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: anchorage
Posts: 18
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hey FMJ... welcome. I'm also a hardcore offroader, at least I consider myself one. Have had several jeeps, most on 35-36" swampers, the latest locked front and rear and all with winches. The RC crawlers are pretty fun, you'll get a kick outta playing with them and have fun tweaking the suspension. Don't worry about trying to adjust diff gear ratios, it can all be done at the motor. A 55T lathe motor is probably what you want starting out, slow and lots of torque. If you want more or less torque/speed, you have alot of adjustment in the motor pinion gear, they're about $4 ea and swap in about a minute. Buy a few. Novak Rooster Crawler ESC is a great start for speed controls. Try softening up the springs, you'll be impressed with how it performs. Find the softest springs available (either inside or outside the shocks) and tune from there. I got my springs at the local hardware store. If your a real off-roader you already know buiseness is done where the rubber meets the rocks, get better rubber to be really impressed. Losi Rock Claws seem to be the tire of choice. Now, if you want good info, don't be afraid to read a little! |
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09-20-2008, 09:19 AM
| #6 | ||
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Posts: 139
| Quote:
Quote:
 .Coolkidjf7: Thanks for the info, that was exactly what I was looking for, you helped me out a lot, and now I can kinda understand whats going on. Thanks for takin the time to read and write all that shtuff. KBeefy> tussen takk for die postage, takken fer yelpin!! | ||
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09-20-2008, 09:21 AM
| #7 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: 517
Posts: 341
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No prob. man, if you need more help and don't wanna get flamed feel free to PM me |
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09-20-2008, 10:11 AM
| #8 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Canada, eh.
Posts: 2,919
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FMJ, whereabouts in Alberta are you? There's quite a few of us scattered around, mostly in Calgary and Edmonton, but we're all over. PM me and I can send you some contact info for local clubs. Probably your best bet if you want honest advice for what works best in our local conditions.
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09-20-2008, 01:31 PM
| #9 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Posts: 139
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Cool thanks for the advice rambuller! I was checkin out HH yesterday and looking at their handwound 55t. Looks like a likely candidate! Good price too! Other choice was looking at was either the Navak Crawler rooster 55 w/ novak se2rvo combo for $100 or Novaks Goat combo 18.5t(?) motor and Goat servo for $200... Im still alittle shaddy in that area.... want to get up and running asap but dont want to make any dumbass newb decisions that dont work and I get stuck with... I will definitely do a bit more research in that combo you mentioned too. I believe I saw all those products available thru HH. Ecoli, I am from Cochrane, just 5min outside of calgary to the west. Yea, send me some club info, and good vendor info if you can. I talked to a couple of hobby shops and most dont know what raock crawling is in general, let alone anything beyond a new bright (Newb right?!). One guy said he could set me up with the elctronics for my axial, but on his website, he didnt have any axial products... I think that was Hobby Guys in the NE? CHEERS!! (LOL another club.. oh god! the GF is gunna kill me, she doesnt even know the crawlers in the mail!) Thanks for the pleasant & informative response from all! |
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09-20-2008, 01:34 PM
| #10 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Posts: 139
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oops.. forgot, the HPI bodies should be easily interchangable with the AX Chassis right? tell you what, i'll dig around! ;)
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09-20-2008, 02:00 PM
| #11 |
| I wanna be Dave  Join Date: May 2006 Location: HONDURAS...ROCK HEAVEN
Posts: 5,076
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Also look into novak goat crawling systems, gobs of torque and killer wheelspeed, you also get away with that on only 6 cells  |
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09-20-2008, 03:59 PM
| #12 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: aurora, CO
Posts: 472
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i really thought these guys would be a bit more helpfull basically i dont know how much leg work you want to do to track down all the right parts for your build theres a couple options if you dont want to peice everythin together and start from an already built truck this isnt toy r us, you buy a rtr and you will get good results for your money. Option 1 if you want the full comp crawler and dont mind the scale, look at the new losi mini crawler (if you want to actually compete it will take some time but most clubs are just starting the mrc class) Option 2 if you want bigger there is the artr ax10 comes with everything you would need starting out (besides a good charger and battery pack) also option 3 is to check out the classifieds here and pick up an already built truck and work out the issues with that one. buying a rtr like this will solve all your problems you may spend a lil more starting out and need to replace things here and there but you will be out faster and with winter approching that may be a good thing... but with the losi mini crawler you can wheel indoors! if your totally convinced you need to build your own truck the way you want start out with the ax10 KIT (not the rtr) cant go any better way unless your building for competion in that case go with the motor on axle (moa) options if interested in those check out words like berg, hotbodies moa axle set and rc4wd bully or even the old clodbuster junk what we really need to do is know exactly what you want to do with the rig, do you want a fully comp truck to compete or do you want it so it doesnt suck? i think the later is your choice so if your smart and set up your options right with building your own truck you wont need a full comp setup just a couple well placed parts and an ax-10 kit my advice for whati think you need servo- any quality servo with over 175 oz should do the trick transit speed is not to big of a deal hitech 654 mg work allright i here good things from the tower pro line, jr makes a good one, as well as airtronics expect to spend anywear from 40-100 bucks radio- if you want dig your need a 3 channel selectable like the JR R1, spectrum dx3r, dx3 ( not the dx3.0) futaba 3pm, good line up that wont let you down pricing starts at about 150 -300 chepaer radio can be hand in the 2 and 3 channel range and there all about the same check the classifieds for good deals me i have a 7 -8 year old R1 that did the trick till it died in floridas "salt fog" (50 bucks for horizon (jr's parent company) to fix it) esc- look for something with drag brake and instant reverse along with lipo compatiblity, dude before already mentioned a good couple names, tekin fxr is good the rebel 2 is all right (bigger) novak goat system works pretty well sidewinder and mamba 25 are also good and have brushed brushless capability you'll have two options for power delivery, brushed and brushless id stay with brushed itys easyer to work with, doesnt make a horrible noise and is a bit more reliable b/c the techonology is proven (compaire; toy 4cyl 22 re (brushed) to mazda rotary (brushless) ) basically brushed uses regualr motor technology, brush on a com, wear as the brushless uses signal wires to the outer can of the motor to alternate elctromagnetic feilds (advantage would be longer run times but this issue is mute when your driving a crawler) batts - go with a lipo setup and dont look back ignore the warnings of cells exlpoding as long as your esc has a cutoff switch and your carger is designed for lipos your fine. check holmes hobbies for good chargers and batts he has gone into detail to explain what you will need and even better he would be happy to answer some more of your questions on chargers motors and batteris look for a 2cell 7.4 pack with a 2000mah rating that will give you a good hour and a half to 2 hours of crawl time with pletny of punch through out the cycle .want more wheel speed bump up to a 3 cell pack tires - panthers won the nats, losi claws are proven and proline has a solid reputation for tires but none of em seem to stand out the best and easyest result would be the losi claws the panthers you'll need to tune with the foams setup and that could get costly (if interested in foams northwest traction technology should fit the bill well, or kreepys ) foams are teh fishing lure of this sport no one really seems to like to share there foam setup for further details and copmarisons use the search button me and the other guy have narrowed down your options quite welll and you should be able to find your way around if i didnt make any sense ignore the post if i did but you missed some parts feel free to pm me, or reply i'll try and check back to see if you need anymore help Last edited by extreme; 09-20-2008 at 04:06 PM. |
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09-22-2008, 08:57 PM
| #13 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Posts: 139
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extreem, absolutely wicked post. Thanks. FTR, I already picked up an AX10 ARTR. I wanted to build a bit, I am a mechanic, and I built my 4x4 myself (lockers, suspension lift, gears, etc), but because of the extreem noobism I didnt want to turn myself off and light it on fire. So I also needed a bit of it done, so I can figure out the electronics and get them underway. It may stay stock for a season, though Im sure it will start getting more & more modified until it is comp worthy. And yea, no plans for compitition use (if there even is any around here), but definitely want it in the big boys catagory eventually, once I can talk rc and actually understand whats comming out of my mouth. I know there's nothing more annoying than having a guy talk shy-t he doesnt know nothing about ;) we love those guys, buy a completely finished rig, smash it around like an idiot and walk n' talk like a king while you have dedicated years to your art through endless hours of blood sweat and more blood just to end up in the same boat... uhhhhhhhhh.... Again thanks for your help guys, Im sure down the road there will be many more Q's on my behalf. |
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