New to crawling and need some info

[crazy4ink]

Ok, just getting into R/C crawling. I have a stretched, big block T-Maxx, but after seeing some R/C crawlers in a recent mag, I wanted to give this aspect of the hobby a try.

I just placed an order with The Crawler Store and ordered:
NN Clod
TQ3 with rear steer
Clod axle pair
T-maxx wheel adaptors.

I already have in my spare parts bin:
T-maxx wheels
T-maxx tires
T-maxx stock shocks
high torque servo

I also ordered:
servo extension
2 integy lathe motors
ESC
body posts

I have a few questions about when I start putting this together.
1. Will the clod axles I ordered already be set up for 4 wheel steering? If not, what mods do I have to do to the axles?

2. On average, how long of a run time are you all getting out of you battery packs?

3. I saw the threads about rim narrowing. What are people's tires rubbing on? The lower links??

4. On average, what wheelbase is everyone running? Shortest possible, longest possible, middle of the road? Does it just depend on your surroundings?

5. For 4 wheel steering, am I going to need 2 servo savers then to make sure I don't blow out the servo, or the rear servo doesn't need a servo saver since it doesn't get used constantly??

I'm sure I'll have more questions, but I can't think of anymore right now.
Thanks in advance,
Rob

[kevinlongisland]

Hello Rob and thank you for your order. You will have everything you need for 4ws. The only mod you have to do is cut or grind off the little steering stops on the stock clod knuckles. These limit your steering travel and are not necessary.

You can expect about an hour run time out of an 3300mAh pack on lather motors. Maybe more.

Allot of people like narrowing rims because of the looks and also because it changes the tires profile. It's all up to your own personal preference. You can read more in the tires and wheels section.

For best performance, a 16" wheelbase is recommended. If you want to set your truck up for scale (real) looks, go with the shortest wheelbase which is 14".

Some people run servos savers, some don't. I always run them and have never blown out a set of servo gears. I recommend them on both servos. But again, this is personal preference.

[crazy4ink]

3300 mAh battery pack huh? I went with what the write up recommended and ordered (2) 1500 mAh battery packs. It's the same battery that the electric start for my T-Maxx takes. Is this not going to be enough power to have any fun with my new crawler? Am I going to have to run both packs simultaneously? Did I buy the wrong pack?

Any other advice you could give me for putting this crawler kit together when I get it?

Also, how does the backorder look on the crawler kit and the diffs?

Thanks again! I'm sure I'll be asking more questions once everything gets here.

[Trike Kid]

mah is a battery's run time capacity, not power capacity. Your batteries are 7.2 volts just like any other pack. A 3300 will just run aproximately twice as long as your 1500's. I got about 15 minutes trail time with a stock geared E-Maxx in full bash trim you should be getting pretty respectable run times from the lathes and low gears.

[crazy4ink]

Originally Posted by Trike Kid

mah is a battery's run time capacity, not power capacity. Your batteries are 7.2 volts just like any other pack. A 3300 will just run aproximately twice as long as your 1500's. I got about 15 minutes trail time with a stock geared E-Maxx in full bash trim you should be getting pretty respectable run times from the lathes and low gears.

Oh, ok. Thanks for the info!

[kevinlongisland]

Like stated above, those packs will work fine for you. Make sure you lock the diffs when assembling the axles and also use locktight on any metal to metal screws. I'm waiting on the plates only (side and skid). Hopefully i will have them within a weeks time, but it may possibly be a little longer. The axles will be here this coming week.

[crazy4ink]

Ok, sounds good!

[crazy4ink]

Another question. How are people shortening their receiver antennas so that they aren't sticking way up in the air? I know on my T-Maxx, the antenna wire sticks way above the body. I'd like to shorten it somehow, so that the wire is only 2 inches or so above the highest point of the body.

Any tips or info would be greatly appreciated.

[RD400]

If you want to hide the antenna completely, get your self a 6" long zip ty. Mount it to a cross member of the chassis. Drill a small hole at the base just big enough for tha wire to fit through. Start winding the wire around the zip ty. When you get all the wire wrapped, drill a second hole at the top. Feed the wire through the second hole. Done.

Now the body will cover the whole thing, you won't even see it. And don't worry about glitching or losing control, in crawling you are rarely more then a couple of feet away from the truck.

[crazy4ink]

Ok, thanks for the info. I had seen what looked like someone had glued the antenna down to a piece of plexiglass, but wasn't sure if that would hurt the antenna or anything else.

Another question:

On the NN Chassis, it says 60/40 or 50/50 setup. Is this referring to the weight or does that I mean I can make all four of the front links longer than the 4 rear links? Are the upper links shorter than the lowers? If they are, would it be better to put all the long link in the front or rear? I know ideally, it would be best to put the battery down low in the center of the vehicle, but for rock crawling, what is best? (long front with weight, long rear with weight, 50/50 balance)

[RD400]

I don't have a NN chassis, but when I ran a 60/40 setup, it was in the links. The short links were in the front, long in the rear, and the battery was in the chassis.

[kevinlongisland]

crazy4ink, 60/40 means that you have a forward weight bias. Because the links can be attached at varying positions on the chassis, you can make it so the chassis itself is further forward, or 60/40. Forward weight is typically advantageous. 50/50 would place the chassis right in the center of the wheelbase. All links are the same length.

[crazy4ink]

Kev and RD400, thanks for the info. That helps my understanding out even more.

[kevinlongisland]

Your welcome. Please feel free to ask questions here or email us whenever you have questions.

[RD400]

Crazy4ink, thank you. You don't know how nice it is to read a post and be able to answer without cooking my brain trying to understand "wat kidn ov geers doi ned 2 maek a tc4 in2 a cralr"

If you need help, PM me, I'll see what I can do;)

[crazy4ink]

Originally Posted by RD400

Crazy4ink, thank you. You don't know how nice it is to read a post and be able to answer without cooking my brain trying to understand "wat kidn ov geers doi ned 2 maek a tc4 in2 a cralr"

If you need help, PM me, I'll see what I can do

I know what you mean! Yet another question has come to mind. I know on The Crawler Store's NN chassis page, there is a shock listed, plus I could use stock T-MAxx shocks (since I already have some) but could I run the longer Savage shocks without causing myself any problems? Just wondering what the longest extended length shock is that I could run.

[RD400]

Like I said before, I don't have a NN chassis, but I think it is made to use 4" shocks. 4" shocks get about 1 1/4" of compression. My savage shocks get over 2". That might jack uo the handling of the chassis. Plus, you would either have to raise you COG, or build a new way yo mount the shocks. If it was me doing it, I would stick to the 4" shocks

[62PYRO]

For Ease Of Use,stick To The 4" Shocks As Stated Above.savage Shocks Seem Cool But In Reality,don't Give Much Advantage Due To Locating Differences.i Have Them On My Truck But Don't Get Any More Articulation Than I Would With T-maxx Shocks Mounted Differently.since You're New To This,go With The Easiest Setup.experimenting Later,once You Get The Hang Of How Different Setups Work.

[RD400]

Ya, sounds better the way you said it PYRO

[crazy4ink]

Makes sense, thanks for the info again!