| |
| |||||||
 |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
10-21-2009, 01:20 PM
| #1 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno
Posts: 113
|  Revo Rod End Thread Size
I can't find it for the life of me. If I were to make my own upper links, what drill bit would I need to use Revo rod ends?
|
|  |
| Sponsored Links | |
| | |
|
10-21-2009, 01:22 PM
| #2 | |
| Debunking old stereotypes  Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: 1st and Amistad
Posts: 2,260
| Quote:
I use 8/32 allthread. | |
|
| |
|
10-21-2009, 01:26 PM
| #3 | |
| RCC Addict  Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Mount Juliet
Posts: 1,287
| Quote:
Here is a link to a site that will give you drill bit sizes per screw size. http://www.korit.com/tapndrill.htm | |
|
| |
|
10-21-2009, 01:29 PM
| #4 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno
Posts: 113
|
So you get aluminum that's already pre-threaded to 4mm? Where at?
|
|
| |
|
10-21-2009, 01:37 PM
| #5 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Mount Juliet
Posts: 1,287
|
I order 4mm threaded steel in 1m lengths from McMaster Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/#98861a050/=45rc2a |
|
| |
|
10-21-2009, 01:38 PM
| #6 | |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Austin
Posts: 52
| Quote:
The 8-32 threads into the revo ends pretty easy by hand. This is probably the easiest route. I have seen others take thicker tubing, thread the tubing, then take a small piece of all-thread rod and insert into the revo ends AND tubing. About the same, but you have a few extra steps. The 4mm stuff mentioned above is just all thread by itself inserted into the rod ends. And it's steel. | |
|
| |
|
10-21-2009, 01:41 PM
| #7 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Mount Juliet
Posts: 1,287
|
I do similar but with 1/4" Delrin tube that I hollow out to 5/32" I.D....then push the 4mm threaded rod thru it....and cap off with Revo ends.
|
|
| |
|
10-21-2009, 01:44 PM
| #8 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno
Posts: 113
|
Well...the threaded rod looks alright, but I'd rather have something that looked better, so I'm sure I could sleeve it with some tubing. But I think after buying all the materials to make my own it'd cost around $10, whereas I can just but the 4 Revo Pushrods for like $16, and they come with rod ends and balls. It seems like it's way more worth it to just buy the pushrods. Thanks for all the ideas. I'll keep them in mind for the future. EDIT: This is just for upper links, as I have custom Delrin lowers. |
|
| |
|
10-21-2009, 01:52 PM
| #9 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Mount Juliet
Posts: 1,287
|
I am lucky enough to work 10 minutes from McMaster's warehouse....so no shipping charges. It makes it more cost effective. 5' stick of Delrin tube = $3.25 3' lengths of threaded rod = $1.25 x 2 sticks = $2.50 Total Cost = $5.75 PLUS Revo Ends. This is enough material to do all the links on one truck....and still have some leftovers. Just yesterday I picked up: 5 sticks black Delrin tube 5 sticks white Delrin tube 12 lengths of threaded rod and a 12" x 12" x 1/8" white Delrin sheet Total cost was only $60....and that will keep me and my pals in links for a little while. Even after work tonight a pal is stopping by for me to throw together a set of lowers for him. It is nice to make your own....and be able to custom size whatever you may need. |
|
| |
|
10-21-2009, 02:07 PM
| #10 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno
Posts: 113
|
See you are lucky. But Even $5.75 plus 8 rod ends (~$4) = $10. Obviously you have enough material to make more links, and it is nice to be able to customize them. Making them for friends or selling them for $10 a set or something would also be cool, since you're making a bunch anyways.
|
|
| |
|
10-21-2009, 02:11 PM
| #11 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: FOUR 8 OH
Posts: 4,913
|
Stock Axial Link - Revo End with 10/24 - Traxxas End with 6/32  |
|
| |
|
10-21-2009, 02:14 PM
| #12 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno
Posts: 113
|
I'm looking forward to not breaking a rod end at least once every comp lol
|
|
| |
|
10-21-2009, 03:12 PM
| #13 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: behind the wheel of a monster truck...
Posts: 2,878
| Quote:
| |
|
| |
|
10-26-2009, 09:08 AM
| #14 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Stuck in Missouri for now.
Posts: 284
|
did you have any issues getting .25 tubing over the 8-32 all thread? I am looking at mcmaster's right now and think the tolerances may be a little tight and wanted to know if you had any issues with that
|
|
| |
|
10-26-2009, 09:34 AM
| #15 |
| Newbie Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Los Alamos
Posts: 25
|
The major diameter on 8-32 UNC thread is .164", so a .25" OD with .180" ID tube should fit no problem.
|
|
| |
|
10-26-2009, 09:45 AM
| #16 | |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Austin
Posts: 52
| Quote:
This is what I ordered from Grainger: Tubing, Welded, Inside Dia .194 In, Outside Dia 1/4 In, Length 6 Feet, Wall Thickness .028 In, Outside Dia Tolerance +.005 In/-0.005 In It's listed under :3ADD8 Even at that ID there was plenty of room inside for the 8-32 to slide thru. | |
|
| |
|
10-26-2009, 09:49 AM
| #17 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Austin
Posts: 52
|
Opps, forgot to add the 8-32 threaded rod code: 4FGV7 Depending on where you are, McMaster might be cheaper. I tried to do a store pickup with grainger but they had to order the tubing direct so I had to pay shipping. |
|
| |
|
10-26-2009, 11:49 AM
| #18 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Golden, CRAWLERADO
Posts: 491
|
ive got my revo ends and all thread just need to get off my butt and do this already. been planning it for a month
|
|
| |
|
10-26-2009, 12:58 PM
| #19 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: 20 miles southeeast of downtown Sacramento
Posts: 2,373
|
I only use 4mm set screws and revo ends for the lowers. I've never had a problem with 3mm set screws and traxxas 3mm ends on the uppers with 1/4 delrin drilled using jeepndougs drill bushings. I also use larger delrin lowers without problems. Tube and all-thread just has never seemed like a good idea to me. I do use thickwall alum 1/4 tube tapped 4mm for lowers. Plenty strong and easy to bend at what ever angle ya want. If ya really want strong, there are stainless and titanium links available.  |
|
| |
|
10-26-2009, 05:55 PM
| #20 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Perrysburg
Posts: 116
|
The "small" rod ends are the common m3
|
|
| |
|
| |
Linear Mode
