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Thread: Xr-10 motor break in??

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Old 09-23-2010, 11:36 PM   #1
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Default Xr-10 motor break in??

I know this may be in the wrong thread but i dont feel like looking for it so was wondering i have two ckrc 40 turn brushed motors and was wondering if anyone could explain the break in process or have a detailed video of this process??

I used to just give them to a friend but he has moved and was wondering on what to do??? thanks guys!!
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:08 AM   #2
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I don't think it's really necessary for crawlers IMO. I don't break mine in.

The 2 methods I used back in the brushed race days were;
- Hook it up to a C or D battery and let it run for a 1/2 hour
- Hook it up to a C or D battery and submerse in a cup of 1/2 water 1/2 alcolhol

These run at low speeds so I don't think it's necessary.
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:20 AM   #3
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All motors should be broken in.....you will get excessive comm wear if you don't....

That being said, the CKRC twister motor you have is already broken in, so just install and you're good.

I don't recommend either of the methods suggested either. The first is too low of voltage and way to long at that. 3 volts at 5-10 minutes depending on the brush is the normal. Using water is really only for sealed can motors, and then you want to use higher voltage still, as its meant to speed up the process......the water/alochol method doesn't work on all brushes either.


Later EddieO
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:14 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO View Post
All motors should be broken in.....you will get excessive comm wear if you don't....

That being said, the CKRC twister motor you have is already broken in, so just install and you're good.

I don't recommend either of the methods suggested either. The first is too low of voltage and way to long at that. 3 volts at 5-10 minutes depending on the brush is the normal. Using water is really only for sealed can motors, and then you want to use higher voltage still, as its meant to speed up the process......the water/alochol method doesn't work on all brushes either.


Later EddieO
That makes it easy enough that the twister motors are already done!!! I have never used these motors before so i hope they are a good motor!! Thanks for your help eddie!!!
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:47 AM   #5
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I like doing a short no load break in and then a slightly longerloaded breaking.

Like Eddie said, 3v for about 5 minutes. This is no load, not even a pinion on it.
Then I hook the motor up in the axle. There is a little bit of load but not a lot. With a new kit especially I like doing this at about 5v to get the gears seated together and see if there might be an issue with assembly. I will then do it in reverse as well. Sometimes I will ramp the voltage up to 8.4v which is as high as I can go with my break in machine. I'm not worried about higher voltage than that because we very rarely put that much power to them anyway.
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:14 PM   #6
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i tape 2 aa batteries together in series and let them spin the motor in its forward position until they are dead. you dont want to let the motor build heat or arc the brushes so dont go too crazy on how much voltage you run through them. 3 volts works great for me.
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Old 09-24-2010, 04:11 PM   #7
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We sure do have a lot of these threads lately, like people are becoming aware all of a sudden or something?

I found a system that works well for me. And I'm referring to fully seating the brush, not just breaking it in. Every time I get a motor, be it a Br00d, Holmes, Trinity, or Integy, or whatever, it looks like the motor has been tested out to see if it works, maybe a little longer, but not long enough to fully seat the brush.

Firstly I charge my 3 cell NiMH GP3300 pack I made. I put the motor timing at about 3 degrees advanced, then stick this on the motor:



And put the motor in this:



And hook the battery up to the motor and let it run for ten minutes.

I wish my camera worked, or that I'd buy a new one already... to show you how the brush looks after ten minutes.

Then minute by minute I keep running the motor and checking the brushes to see if they are fully seated. Once they get to the point that they are about 95% fully seated, I stop. (Wish I had a camera) That might take ten more minutes. It depends on the motor wind and brush compound and the spring tension for how much longer it takes.

I tear apart the motor and set up the lathe while repeaking the battery pack.

Skim the brush garbage off the commutator with the lathe and get it nice and round again, then clean everything.

Then, back to the fan and motor stand for about 30 to 45 seconds to get that last little bit of seatage action, then done. Then set the timing to a little more advance.

There's also the brush hood tweaks, but I think we have another thread on that?

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Old 10-05-2010, 11:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EeePee View Post
We sure do have a lot of these threads lately, like people are becoming aware all of a sudden or something?

I found a system that works well for me. And I'm referring to fully seating the brush, not just breaking it in. Every time I get a motor, be it a Br00d, Holmes, Trinity, or Integy, or whatever, it looks like the motor has been tested out to see if it works, maybe a little longer, but not long enough to fully seat the brush.

Firstly I charge my 3 cell NiMH GP3300 pack I made. I put the motor timing at about 3 degrees advanced, then stick this on the motor:



And put the motor in this:



And hook the battery up to the motor and let it run for ten minutes.

I wish my camera worked, or that I'd buy a new one already... to show you how the brush looks after ten minutes.

Then minute by minute I keep running the motor and checking the brushes to see if they are fully seated. Once they get to the point that they are about 95% fully seated, I stop. (Wish I had a camera) That might take ten more minutes. It depends on the motor wind and brush compound and the spring tension for how much longer it takes.

I tear apart the motor and set up the lathe while repeaking the battery pack.

Skim the brush garbage off the commutator with the lathe and get it nice and round again, then clean everything.

Then, back to the fan and motor stand for about 30 to 45 seconds to get that last little bit of seatage action, then done. Then set the timing to a little more advance.

There's also the brush hood tweaks, but I think we have another thread on that?

Great write up EeePee
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Old 10-05-2010, 05:31 PM   #9
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