RCCrawler Forums

im not addicted · 03-29-2011, 10:25 PM

Im tryin to build a versatile comp crawler but im stuck on what the next thing I need to purchase is. So far I have

Ax10 chassis
Hb sedona tires on beadlocks
Texin fxr esc
Rear straight axle adapters
front wheel spacers
all aluminum links
Integy drivelines
1350 mah li po
Rear four link plate
Hr shocks
venom fireball 50 turn motor. But I just ordered integy 35 and 45 turn motors to see what I like more..
JR steering servo
JR rs300 receiver
JR XS3 controler
lockers front and rear
87 tooth spur gear
And a mirrored transmission
I've read tons of threads and can't figure out what I want to do next. Any ideas would be great.

It usually runs fine · 03-29-2011, 10:31 PM

Put it together

im not addicted · 03-29-2011, 10:40 PM

Its all put together I play with it all the time I just can't figure out what would be the next best upgrades for me

forbid89 · 03-30-2011, 01:31 AM

Do you have aluminum knuckles and C hubs? Perhaps upgrade from the stock chassis or try some delrin lower links. There is always a BTA steering setup, CVD's, Beef Toobs for stronger axles, hardened transmission gears, upgraded transmission outputs. Ditch the integrity drivelines and go with MIPs as well. You might want a DIG if you aren't competing in the sportsman class otherwise your setup looks good. I would just run it to find the weaknesses.

im not addicted · 03-30-2011, 01:59 AM

I was looking at the gateskeeper gc3a chassis. I've read its a good one but do u have a better idea? And as for the bta I was looking into that but I don't no what 1 to go with. And is that better than the zero ackerman hubs? Also who makes a good dig unit. I've heard of alot of them but I don't no what is the best to go with.

forbid89 · 03-30-2011, 03:30 AM

the GC3-A is a great chassis I've only heard good things about it, if you are looking to go bodiless, the poison dart was just released and the fastback looks to be going back into limited production. As for BTA steering, you could go with the axial kit or KC_Jones makes a nice tie rod:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280254

As for a dig I have no experience, my rig has been built up to eventually run comps as a sportsman so no dig for me. I think the Vanquish hurtz shifter is a good option, a little spendy though, maybe someone else could chime in about AX10 dig options. You seem to have a pretty good setup already is there something you want to improve or are you just looking to make upgrades? Do you have a BEC that is an essential upgrade if you are running any kind of high torque servo and only around $25.

version_three · 03-30-2011, 06:09 AM

dont forget that KC's tie rod is for zero ackerman BTA steering, but then zero ackerman is the best way to go anyway.

As for the dig, Vanquish is the only answer IMO. Quality is top notch and it never binds or locks up. Do a lil searching and you'll see how popular it is and why.

im not addicted · 03-30-2011, 09:48 AM

The tekin fxr has a built in bec. But would it be better to run an external 1 as well? And im not just tryin to buy upgrades im just tryin to fix my weak points. I was looking into a droop setup is it worth it or.are they pointless? The guy at my lhs said they are useless but after reading on here I've found otherwise. Opinons would be appreciated. I looked at kc's bta and that seems to be what im looking for ill order it on payday. For the vanquish dig my controller needs to have a 3 way switch right? And if im not mistaken they are legal in comps right?

Also I broke 1 of my plastic straight axle adapters is it better to get the aluminum ones or should I just order a new set of plastic ones?
thanks for all the help.

version_three · 03-30-2011, 09:59 AM

if you're using anything stronger than a ~100oz steering servo, you'd be doing yourself a favor by getting an external BEC, or getting the HH BRXL ESC (it has one of the strongest internal BECs available)

To get the most out of a Vanquish dig, you need a 3pos 3rd channel, but you can get by with a 2pos 3rd channel and just miss out on the rear-freewheel setting.

Digs are comp-legal, but that would move you from the sportsman class to the pro class, which pits you against MOA rigs. You can still have a dig installed and just disconnect it for comps if you wanna stay in the sportsman class though.

I've been running the stock plastic straight adapters on my ax10 for over a year now with no problems, but if you have a few extra bucks, the aluminum ones would be a worthwhile upgrade.

im not addicted · 03-30-2011, 10:13 AM

But would it be better to go plastic so I have a spare? Or would the aluminum ones just be what to go with? I've heard aluminum doesn't slide well on rocks. But if it was dipped in plasti dip wouldn't that make it slide better but still give you the strength of the aluminum?
What's a good external bec? I just bought the tekin fxr a week ago so im not lookin to get another esc for a while.

version_three · 03-30-2011, 10:39 AM

Alum + plastidip sounds intriguing...

Like I said, I've been running the plastic ones for over a year with no probs, and I am not kind to it at all. The plastic ones are cheap enough, why not get plastic for now and if it seems like you keep breaking them, step up to alum.

for the BEC, Castle. The standard 10A is all most people need, and you can get em most places for around 25-30 bucks if memory serves.

im not addicted · 03-30-2011, 11:27 AM

Ok ill need to order a bec then. And as for the axle adapters ill just stick with the plastic ones.

Now for the transmission outputs and differential outputs who makes the strongest cause they seem to be wearing out and my drivelines keep popping off and tearing the outputs up.

disturbed0013 · 03-30-2011, 05:05 PM

axial makes steel outputs to replace the alumnium ones
http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ax30544.htm

im not addicted · 03-30-2011, 06:40 PM

But the question is are the Axial ones better than other ones?

im not addicted · 03-31-2011, 01:01 AM

Here is some pics of my setup

im not addicted · 03-31-2011, 01:14 AM

Ok so im having an electrical problem. My motor is 10 times faster in reverse than forwards. I've tried swapping the wires to the motor around and still no change I've also messed with my trim, changed the brushes, and made sure I had a fully charged battery.
Is there something else I need to do? Or is it a defective motor? Im stumped

Swervin · 03-31-2011, 01:45 AM

my buddy had the same problem make sure all the throttle end points in the remolt are set at 0 and also the trim then reset speed controller try that

version_three · 03-31-2011, 09:59 AM

You might also double-check to see if the timing is off on the motor.

For the outputs, the axial steel ones should be good, or look at the Robinson Racing ones. I'd probably be running RR if I didn't have a VP dig.

On a side note, I'd strongly suggest inboarding your lower links at the chassis.

im not addicted · 03-31-2011, 10:44 AM

The timing on the motor seems to be fine. No matter what way it is turned it'd is the same speed. Seems like maybe the timing isn't even working.

And as for inboarding the links what difference does it make? Just more triangulation?

boogiecash · 03-31-2011, 11:13 AM

if you have the fxr go over you instructions and i believe if you press the mode button twice then the other button you can slow your reverse down so it isnt as fast. also you should modify your skid plate so you can bring your lower links in and get some extra triangulation and as stated above i just switched to 0 ackerman arms and like them alot gets that steering rod out of the way there are alot of tips in this forum you just have to look

03-29-2011, 10:25 PM	#1
im not addicted Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: eugene Posts: 16	ax10 build Im tryin to build a versatile comp crawler but im stuck on what the next thing I need to purchase is. So far I have Ax10 chassis Hb sedona tires on beadlocks Texin fxr esc Rear straight axle adapters front wheel spacers all aluminum links Integy drivelines 1350 mah li po Rear four link plate Hr shocks venom fireball 50 turn motor. But I just ordered integy 35 and 45 turn motors to see what I like more.. JR steering servo JR rs300 receiver JR XS3 controler lockers front and rear 87 tooth spur gear And a mirrored transmission I've read tons of threads and can't figure out what I want to do next. Any ideas would be great. Last edited by im not addicted; 03-29-2011 at 10:31 PM.

03-30-2011, 01:31 AM	#4
forbid89 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Vancouver, WA Posts: 423	Do you have aluminum knuckles and C hubs? Perhaps upgrade from the stock chassis or try some delrin lower links. There is always a BTA steering setup, CVD's, Beef Toobs for stronger axles, hardened transmission gears, upgraded transmission outputs. Ditch the integrity drivelines and go with MIPs as well. You might want a DIG if you aren't competing in the sportsman class otherwise your setup looks good. I would just run it to find the weaknesses. Last edited by forbid89; 03-30-2011 at 01:46 AM.

03-30-2011, 09:48 AM	#8
im not addicted Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: eugene Posts: 16	The tekin fxr has a built in bec. But would it be better to run an external 1 as well? And im not just tryin to buy upgrades im just tryin to fix my weak points. I was looking into a droop setup is it worth it or.are they pointless? The guy at my lhs said they are useless but after reading on here I've found otherwise. Opinons would be appreciated. I looked at kc's bta and that seems to be what im looking for ill order it on payday. For the vanquish dig my controller needs to have a 3 way switch right? And if im not mistaken they are legal in comps right? Also I broke 1 of my plastic straight axle adapters is it better to get the aluminum ones or should I just order a new set of plastic ones? thanks for all the help. Last edited by im not addicted; 03-30-2011 at 11:28 AM.

03-29-2011, 10:31 PM	#2
It usually runs fine Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Beaumont Tx! Posts: 508	Put it together

03-29-2011, 10:40 PM	#3
im not addicted Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: eugene Posts: 16	Its all put together I play with it all the time I just can't figure out what would be the next best upgrades for me

03-30-2011, 01:59 AM	#5
im not addicted Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: eugene Posts: 16	I was looking at the gateskeeper gc3a chassis. I've read its a good one but do u have a better idea? And as for the bta I was looking into that but I don't no what 1 to go with. And is that better than the zero ackerman hubs? Also who makes a good dig unit. I've heard of alot of them but I don't no what is the best to go with.

03-30-2011, 03:30 AM	#6
forbid89 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Vancouver, WA Posts: 423	the GC3-A is a great chassis I've only heard good things about it, if you are looking to go bodiless, the poison dart was just released and the fastback looks to be going back into limited production. As for BTA steering, you could go with the axial kit or KC_Jones makes a nice tie rod: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280254 As for a dig I have no experience, my rig has been built up to eventually run comps as a sportsman so no dig for me. I think the Vanquish hurtz shifter is a good option, a little spendy though, maybe someone else could chime in about AX10 dig options. You seem to have a pretty good setup already is there something you want to improve or are you just looking to make upgrades? Do you have a BEC that is an essential upgrade if you are running any kind of high torque servo and only around $25.

03-30-2011, 06:09 AM	#7
version_three Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Central FL Posts: 509	dont forget that KC's tie rod is for zero ackerman BTA steering, but then zero ackerman is the best way to go anyway. As for the dig, Vanquish is the only answer IMO. Quality is top notch and it never binds or locks up. Do a lil searching and you'll see how popular it is and why.

03-30-2011, 09:59 AM	#9
version_three Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Central FL Posts: 509	if you're using anything stronger than a ~100oz steering servo, you'd be doing yourself a favor by getting an external BEC, or getting the HH BRXL ESC (it has one of the strongest internal BECs available) To get the most out of a Vanquish dig, you need a 3pos 3rd channel, but you can get by with a 2pos 3rd channel and just miss out on the rear-freewheel setting. Digs are comp-legal, but that would move you from the sportsman class to the pro class, which pits you against MOA rigs. You can still have a dig installed and just disconnect it for comps if you wanna stay in the sportsman class though. I've been running the stock plastic straight adapters on my ax10 for over a year now with no problems, but if you have a few extra bucks, the aluminum ones would be a worthwhile upgrade.

03-30-2011, 10:13 AM	#10
im not addicted Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: eugene Posts: 16	But would it be better to go plastic so I have a spare? Or would the aluminum ones just be what to go with? I've heard aluminum doesn't slide well on rocks. But if it was dipped in plasti dip wouldn't that make it slide better but still give you the strength of the aluminum? What's a good external bec? I just bought the tekin fxr a week ago so im not lookin to get another esc for a while.

03-30-2011, 10:39 AM	#11
version_three Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Central FL Posts: 509	Alum + plastidip sounds intriguing... Like I said, I've been running the plastic ones for over a year with no probs, and I am not kind to it at all. The plastic ones are cheap enough, why not get plastic for now and if it seems like you keep breaking them, step up to alum. for the BEC, Castle. The standard 10A is all most people need, and you can get em most places for around 25-30 bucks if memory serves.

03-30-2011, 11:27 AM	#12
im not addicted Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: eugene Posts: 16	Ok ill need to order a bec then. And as for the axle adapters ill just stick with the plastic ones. Now for the transmission outputs and differential outputs who makes the strongest cause they seem to be wearing out and my drivelines keep popping off and tearing the outputs up.

03-30-2011, 05:05 PM	#13
disturbed0013 Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: long island Posts: 60	axial makes steel outputs to replace the alumnium ones http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ax30544.htm

Sponsored Links

03-30-2011, 06:40 PM	#14
im not addicted Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: eugene Posts: 16	But the question is are the Axial ones better than other ones?

03-31-2011, 01:01 AM	#15
im not addicted Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: eugene Posts: 16	Here is some pics of my setup

03-31-2011, 01:14 AM	#16
im not addicted Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: eugene Posts: 16	Ok so im having an electrical problem. My motor is 10 times faster in reverse than forwards. I've tried swapping the wires to the motor around and still no change I've also messed with my trim, changed the brushes, and made sure I had a fully charged battery. Is there something else I need to do? Or is it a defective motor? Im stumped

03-31-2011, 01:45 AM	#17
Swervin Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Kent Posts: 43	my buddy had the same problem make sure all the throttle end points in the remolt are set at 0 and also the trim then reset speed controller try that

03-31-2011, 09:59 AM	#18
version_three Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Central FL Posts: 509	You might also double-check to see if the timing is off on the motor. For the outputs, the axial steel ones should be good, or look at the Robinson Racing ones. I'd probably be running RR if I didn't have a VP dig. On a side note, I'd strongly suggest inboarding your lower links at the chassis.

03-31-2011, 10:44 AM	#19
im not addicted Newbie Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: eugene Posts: 16	The timing on the motor seems to be fine. No matter what way it is turned it'd is the same speed. Seems like maybe the timing isn't even working. And as for inboarding the links what difference does it make? Just more triangulation?

03-31-2011, 11:13 AM	#20
boogiecash Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: augusta Posts: 133	if you have the fxr go over you instructions and i believe if you press the mode button twice then the other button you can slow your reverse down so it isnt as fast. also you should modify your skid plate so you can bring your lower links in and get some extra triangulation and as stated above i just switched to 0 ackerman arms and like them alot gets that steering rod out of the way there are alot of tips in this forum you just have to look

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