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Old 04-19-2011, 04:44 PM   #21
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If i went with the tekin fxr with 55t motor, would that be a good setup? Also what servo should i pair it with??
The 55T motor "may" be a bit slow....you'll see.
For a steering servo, close to or over 300oz is likely the target, especially if you're comping.
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:59 PM   #22
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Quote:
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If i went with the tekin fxr with 55t motor, would that be a good setup? Also what servo should i pair it with??
Any of the FXR combos are a good starting point. The 55t set-up is great with lots of torque and a little bit of wheel speed. I started here, but eventually found myself with a 35t motor. Still had great low end torque, but also a little extra 'pep' to hop cracks and ledges that were constantly being set-up on my local comp scene.

As far as servo, take a look at the Hobbico CS-170. Its a great budget servo with 333oz. at 6V. Gets the job done
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:34 AM   #23
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Thanks, may better go with 35t then.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:49 PM   #24
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When you go to four link, can you use the same links that come in the axial color pack kits or do you use all new top links? Do they sell a bracket kit to go 4 link
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:26 AM   #25
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When i go with the tekin 35t fxr, what gears would be good?

My ax10 is the 90011 so has slipper clutch and new esc on it. I believe 14t and 87t gears now
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:16 PM   #26
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i ended up buying the novak rooster as for gearing I run a 55t motor with a 16/87 gear ratio

Last edited by 9700trevor; 04-23-2011 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 05-04-2011, 08:52 PM   #27
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Why would my ax10 have four bolts in rear axle and only two in front axle in top holes and has 4 holes?
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:52 PM   #28
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Why would my ax10 have four bolts in rear axle and only two in front axle in top holes and has 4 holes?
I had one dissapear on me. They're not nylocks, so I'm guessing it just loosened and fell out.
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:39 AM   #29
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As far as the driveshaft issues you have been having I recommend the MIP driveshafts, they are all steel and pretty much bullet proof.

You mentioned you were looking for upgraded gears to go with it. I recommend Robinson Racing tranny gears, they are hardened steel and also pretty much bullet proof. You will destroy a tranny case before the gears. Which you can also get an aluminum tranny case to eliminate that issue.

You can also upgrade the gears in your axles to hardened steel.

The Tekin FXR and 55t motor are very viable options, know lot's of people that run them with little to no problems. Plenty of torque. But you do lose some wheel speed going with that high of a turn of motor. You can go with a 35t motor and get some decent wheel speed without sacrificing too much on torque. But everyone has their own preference, and a lot depends on how you are able to gear it.

Hope that helps with some of the questions you had.
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:35 PM   #30
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If you are popping driveshafts your slipper may be too tight.
Comp guys wil crank it down (or remove it) so they can force their way through even with a tire wedged, but for us casual guys you are better having the slipper do it's thing and take the strain off the shafts and tranny.
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:44 PM   #31
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Thanks for the info, I ordered sum 4 link mounts and went to ace hardware and got sum hex bolts and nuts for the missing ones in front axle. I also found out that the screw to my hitec 7950 sucks and had to order sum new ones. I went with hpi m2.6x8mm cap head bolts so hopefully they are better.
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Old 05-16-2011, 07:48 PM   #32
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What would under driving the rear do for my ax10? I already over drive the front gears.

I also need to figure out this darn torque twist in left rear.
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:16 AM   #33
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What would under driving the rear do for my ax10? I already over drive the front gears.

I also need to figure out this darn torque twist in left rear.
I would read RMD's "Tips & Tricks" stickie in the creeper forum. It will answer most of your questions.
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Old 05-28-2011, 10:14 PM   #34
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I have been popping driveshafts off yokes, I ordered some traxxas drive shafts, will the aluminum rings to prevent pop off for axial shafts fit the traxxas shafts?
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:19 AM   #35
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I have been popping driveshafts off yokes, I ordered some traxxas drive shafts, will the aluminum rings to prevent pop off for axial shafts fit the traxxas shafts?
You shouldn't have issues with the Traxxas bits, the only ones my son popped off were because the plastic side of the yoke was hitting an edge of the motor and prying it up. Otherwise, hours of use with no issues.
I don't know if the rings fit.
Oh, since they will carry loads better, you will likely want to dimple the shafts a bit to help the setscrew stay put.
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Old 06-12-2011, 05:30 PM   #36
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Runing traxxas shafts, holding strong.

What would be a good shock setup for my ax10?
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:21 PM   #37
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What chassis are you running? Stock?
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Old 06-15-2011, 04:48 PM   #38
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Stock chassis, I see alot of people talking about losi or traxxas big bore shocks.
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:25 PM   #39
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yeah, those are the more popular, dependable shocks. i have 2 sets of losis for my berg and a knock off set on my axial. i recommend looking into a droop set up to help cure the torque twist. with a little fine tuning it can be minimized but never completely eliminated. i run droop with a small internal spring (that helps limit the shock as well) and a light weight fluid (20 or 25). this is on the swx chassis but with a shafty the ailments of torque twist dont care what chassis you run. and the axial shaft saver rings will fit on those traxxas shafts
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Old 06-15-2011, 10:48 PM   #40
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I have over and under the axles, 4 linked, and triangulated lower links, mirrored trans. I have very little twist. And if I reverse and stab it in forward its pulling wheelies. I believe I've set it up the best I can with stock chassis. And I still use my top stick pack mount.
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