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09-03-2011, 08:15 PM
| #1 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Troy
Posts: 250
|  SCX10 kit problems
Just got this, trying to put it together. Im no idiot, its really NOT a hard kit to put together, but some of this makes 0 sense to me. Step 2 (seriously....) and I CANNOT get the screws to go in. The holes seem too small for the correct screws (checked over and over, the ones Im trying to put in are correct). WTF am I doing wrong? Did anyone else have this problem? |
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09-03-2011, 08:31 PM
| #2 |
| RCC Addict  Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sonora, CA
Posts: 1,664
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Have just tried putting the screws in without trying to assemble ? Those are small little 2mm x 10mm devils. The tiny ones can sometimes be a challenge. I know you stated you checked them but, triple check they are the smallest in the kit. Best of luck it will happen.
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09-03-2011, 08:33 PM
| #3 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: gervais
Posts: 1,715
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Their self tapping screws, most if not all the holes on the kits or in general don't have a thread in them, the screws make the threads. That is why the holes are smaller than the screws
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09-03-2011, 08:44 PM
| #4 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 1,153
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Step 2 looks to be the differential assembly. Yes you have to put some effort into pushing the screws in as you get them started as stated. Like others said, they are not pre tapped for threads but rather get the threads made as you put in the screws. Typical kit with plastic parts. No problem to huff on them as you put them in. You will be ok  Good luck |
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09-03-2011, 08:47 PM
| #5 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Troy
Posts: 250
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ahhh, no idea most of the kit is self tapping. I have none of my tools up here (stupid oversight) and was trying to use a standard allen wrench from some cheapo walmart tool kit to get them it. I suppose since they are self tapping, theres no way Im going to get the strength to tap 'em behind that type of wrench. |
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09-03-2011, 08:59 PM
| #6 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Canada
Posts: 223
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I had the same problem. Began to wonder if I had the right screws. Realized I needed to start all the screws first then pull them out and put the pieces together before reassembly. Worked fine doing it that way. If I remember right the screws I used from the picture in the manual were not self tapping but rather fine thread. Which made making the threads even harder.
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09-03-2011, 09:02 PM
| #7 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Troy
Posts: 250
| Quote:
Side note, boy are the stock driveshafts dinky! I knew they were trouble, but boy, didn't expect them to be like this. I can see breaking these almost out of the door! BUT, from what Ive seen (most of the parts are still bagged) the steering links and axle links look nice, pretty beefy! | |
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09-03-2011, 10:39 PM
| #8 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,236
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Just finished my new SCX10 up today. Here is my advice... http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053 Best RC investment I have ever made. Either that or you will have some serious forearm muscles built up by the time you are done. |
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09-04-2011, 10:09 AM
| #9 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Grandview, IA
Posts: 356
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Yeah I had the same problem and felt like a retard once I figured out you just had to push really hard as you turn the screws. Even after figuring it out I still had one or two of them that were extremely stubborn and put up a big fight before finally threading in. Everyone keep saying the driveshafts are weak but I haven't seen that. As long as you loctite and thorougly torque down the set screws they should be good for a while. Oh and most importanty, properly set the slipper! |
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09-04-2011, 10:20 AM
| #10 |
| MODERATOR™   Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
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If you have a body post hole reamer, use it to open up those holes just a little bit. Everything will be much simpler. Just a couple of turns and don't go too deep.
Last edited by EeePee; 09-04-2011 at 11:05 AM. |
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09-04-2011, 11:04 AM
| #11 |
| MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
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Huh, it's well within my screen. I'll fix that then.
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09-04-2011, 11:05 AM
| #12 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 1,153
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LOL, I checked it again and it was normal size so I removed my post. It would have needed a screen the size of my wall to fir it all before, lol. The Reamer E suggested is a great way to get screws started |
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09-04-2011, 11:06 AM
| #13 |
| MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
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That's funny, even Photoshop said it's too big for the Save for web.  |
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09-04-2011, 11:27 AM
| #14 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Grandview, IA
Posts: 356
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Displayed fine on Tapatalk both ways it was posted.
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09-04-2011, 01:23 PM
| #15 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: gervais
Posts: 1,715
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I just have to turn my itouch sideways to see the full picture
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09-04-2011, 02:56 PM
| #16 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Troy
Posts: 250
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still cant get them to go in. Im close to drilling out the hole and just finding bigger screws. EDIT Problem solved. 1/16th inch drill bit, drill holes out, install screws, enjoy your diff. Honestly, I think mine might be an exception, there was A LOT of excess material, and those screws would have definitely not self tapped through. Be warned, using this method, be careful! Drilled right out the back of the diff case haha, nothing too bad, but still, watch out! Last edited by AG74683; 09-04-2011 at 03:19 PM. |
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09-04-2011, 03:35 PM
| #17 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Austin
Posts: 31
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I just took my scx out for the first time and broke one of the plastic knuckles. My local just has the alum upgrades which Im sure is goin to be better (and I did put them on), but my question is... what is the next weak part on the front end after I upgrade the knuckles? thanks |
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09-04-2011, 04:35 PM
| #18 | |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dover, NH
Posts: 1,153
| Quote:
That is by far the most common thing. After that is could be the Axle C's the knuckles bolt to or the housing itself where the C's bolt to. Another common thing that will go is the stock plastic servo horn. A good aluminum one is about $10 and very worth it. You may be ok depending on how hard you drive it with just Aluminum knuckles. | |
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09-04-2011, 05:44 PM
| #19 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: central VT
Posts: 2,301
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Yup, after upgrading the knuckles you'll break the C hubs. One thing I would suggest to go with your aluminum knuckles is the Dlux zero slop kingpin bushings. I just installed a couple sets of these in my AX-10 and SCX today, and wow. I was amazed at how much slop these took out of the front end. I'm convinced that wheelbearing and dogbone wear will decrease now that everything operates on exact same plane. Aluminum servo horn is also a must have item. People rag on the plastic driveshafts, but I've found them to be surpisingly rugid. I must have got about fifty packs out of mine before breaking them, and the steel U-joints at the same time. A cheap upgrade is the Traxxas Pro-pack truck long shafts. Direct fit onto the Axial steel outputs and last quite a while. Plus, I like having something to absorb the torque spikes when the truck hops a little. With metal driveshafts there is to give or twist, which garrentees that the aluminum trans ouputs snap next. Other than that, just torque check the truck every few packs and it should hold together quite well. |
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09-04-2011, 08:29 PM
| #20 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Austin
Posts: 31
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Thanks, I have the horn, but will get the C hubs next. Drive shafts are upgraded already. I beat the crap out of the body today too, guess Ill start looking for one of those too. |
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