SCX10 Options and Upgrades

[K1llerRC]

Ok guys, I just ordered an Axial SCX10 RTR Kit, and was wondering what are the best/most reasonable batteries t o run, also, i was thinking about upgrading some, so was wondering what the top 3 upgrades OTHER than the esc and motor.
LMK, All advice would be appreciated! TY

[SMR 510RR]

Ok, as far as batteries most everyone here has converted over to lipo. You will have to investigate what the ESC is capable of handling and if it has a lipo cutoff, sorry I am not familiar with the stock electronics. If you dont already run lipo you will also need to get yourself a lipo specific charger/balancer. You will have to take some measurements of where you are going to put the battery and make sure the battery will fit, this will depend on what body you are running as different bodies have different space available.

A good source for this stuff is http://www.hobbypartz.com/

As far as the top 3 upgrades that is going to be personal preference. It really depends what you like. I will list the things I think are basically necessary.

1. Metal links, you can buy them from axial or you can make your own from some allthread and some metal tubing. Just depends on how you want to go about it and what tools you have. Dont be scared to try, the materials are very cheap.
2. Steering servo, the stock servo is quite weak from what I have read so upgrading to something with a bit more power is worthwhile. Check out the Hitec HS645MG if you are on a budget. Its all metal gears and more powerful than the stock servo and its only $25-30.
3. 3 link w/panhard front suspension and 4 link rear suspension. Again here you can modify stuff yourself or buy some stuff. For the 3 link front check out the Hand Bros. CMS kit, very nice kit that mounts the servo up on the frame and uses the axial metal links to convert the front end to a 3 link with panhard bar setup. For the rear you can use the axial 4 link truss and add some spacers to the axial metal links or build your own links. Also there are a couple vendors on here that sell a metal 4 link truss that will be more durable.

There are also a lot of cheap things you can do to upgrade the performance of your truck. Adding weight to the wheels will lower the COG(center of gravity) and make the truck roll less. You can use a bunch of different stuff to add weight to the wheels, there are stick on weights you can get at hobby shops or you can get some lead rope for fishing (bullet weights makes this and you may find it at walmart) to wrap around them or even some fat plumbers solder. For a general starting point I would add 4-6oz of weight in the front and 2-3oz in the rear. The extra weight in the front will help you when you go over something that you get high centered on, the front end will come down and now you can use the front end to pull yourself out of it. Rearranging the electronics to get them down lower will also help with keeping the COG low the most notable would be the battery as it will probably be the heaviest thing in your truck. Moving the battery plate down near the transmission is a good solution but you will have to figure out how to make it work.

Also we have a section dedicated to the SCX-10 on here. I suggest you look through there on a regular basis to get ideas and tech knowledge specifically for the SCX-10. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/

Good luck!

[K1llerRC]

Im going to be going to the Tekin FXR and 35t system.

[crawlhog]

A better upgrade would be making the tranny stronger and then some MIP drive shafts then maybe some knuckles and c,s

[Rook82]

Originally Posted by crawlhog

A better upgrade would be making the tranny stronger and then some MIP drive shafts then maybe some knuckles and c,s

Agreed, steel outputs for transmission is a must. Then a better steering servo with metal steering horn. Then maybe some metal links. i think the 4 link, etc can wait. it doesnt offer much compared to stock other then maybe strength. The stock suspension is not limited by the stock upper links in any way. Other then a 4 link is stronger. The stock upper link setup can pull the ballcup out of the upper mount on the axle as a common problem (front or rear). But it articulates and works as good as a 4link. Having a good steering servo will be very nice. Common thing is to stip gears, etc on cheapie ones. Anything with metal gears is a benefit, but 200+ ounces of steering power is very nice. The Tranns outputs give everyone issues from driveshafts not holding on them to breaking off. For about $10 for steel Axials it is a must have.

Good luck whatever you go with