I HATE MIPs

[crawler57]

so i got some mips and had to wait 4 weeks (that fair)
and when i got them i was so happy i could finaly test my scaler (i wish)
after a week of messing with the stupid things trining to get them to stay togeather and fit on the car.
the pin came out of the front shaft and shreded me spur gear, then today on its first run the rear had the same problem but this time i cant find the parts

so i need to find a pin (i can probly make that) and also the barle that the pin gose into

[Grandmasboy]

I'm guessing you are talking about driveshafts. You have to make sure and get all those set screws that hold the pins in good and tight to keep them together. A little lock tight helps too. I've had a set for about 2 years and had no problems with them. I know it sucks to have to rebuild brand new parts, but MIP has rebuild kits for those shafts. It may have the parts you need. Hope this helps.

[TexasSP]

Loctite is your friend and I believe the MIP instructions also tell you to use it. You can get the CVD rebuild kits for the MIP's that include pins and set screws.

[doors4u]

My mini crawler has been running them for two years and I beat on it pretty hard. Loctite and proper assembly. Maybe I'm just lucky. I was going to put them on my rock racer, but went with the metal end Stampedes.

[joeyf]

blue loktite and a good backup incase the set scew falls out for some reason, heat shrink tube over the ball that has the pin in it.

[Holdencars]

Originally Posted by crawler57

so i got some mips and had to wait 4 weeks (that fair)
and when i got them i was so happy i could finaly test my scaler (i wish)
after a week of messing with the stupid things trining to get them to stay togeather and fit on the car.
the pin came out of the front shaft and shreded me spur gear, then today on its first run the rear had the same problem but this time i cant find the parts

so i need to find a pin (i can probly make that) and also the barle that the pin gose into

I know what you're saying - they should by now be providing a pin through shaft screw - not just a set screw. The set screw will never hold on an SCX shaft without filing a flat surface on it. Either that or just go with M3 so we can use the original Axial shaft screw

With all the hype of how good they are, MIPS needs to get with times and provide the pin screw - how much would it cost them.

I just installed mine and then removed them because I won't run a drive shaft with a grub screw - regardless of whether I have a faced shaft or not.

[Phins Fan]

I use loctite when assembling and will also setup about a 1/2" wide piece of shrinktube over the joint as a secondary support to ensure the pins/set screws dont come out. I run MIP on 3 rigs and have never lost anything. Proper assembly will get ypu longer life

[winnerone23]

I Love my mips an won't ever run anything else! Got em on 4 rigs soon to be 5, loc-tite for sure an a good wrenching down..
I have a friend that had a similar issue but wouldn't give up on them.. we Musta waisted an hour of crawling for him to keep loosing parts.. the one time was a whole half the shaft down in a gap in the rock.. he is still running them.

[doublej]

Through pins would deff be nice but not every rig is setup to use them.

I also have issues with everything coming loose. I have used every type of lock tight there is. With enough red most things hold for quite some time but never forever.

If your looking for another driveshaft - use traxxas. They aren't quite as strong but are cheaper. MIPs will always be on my high power and abused rigs. Strongest setup available.

[Trubble]

I just got some Jun-Facs, but this question is still pertinent to this discussion.

I got LocTite Gel in both red and blue. Now do I use red on the setscrew holding the pin, and blue on the the screws that grab the output/pinion shafts? Or just go red on everything?

[ik632]

I'm contemplating the Maxx shaft route. Only problem is you need the extended outputs for the tranny. Crawler Innovations sells a kit for about 50 bones.

[ninja turtle]

Originally Posted by Trubble

I just got some Jun-Facs, but this question is still pertinent to this discussion.

I got LocTite Gel in both red and blue. Now do I use red on the setscrew holding the pin, and blue on the the screws that grab the output/pinion shafts? Or just go red on everything?

I use blue on almost everything. If you do use red make sure it's a part that you can apply some heat to.

Tapping the yokes to 4mm helps a ton keeping them in place.

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by ik632

I'm contemplating the Maxx shaft route. Only problem is you need the extended outputs for the tranny. Crawler Innovations sells a kit for about 50 bones.

If you do go this way, I recommend using female shafts at both the trans and diff ends and just gluing a male into one of the female. This setup will be much stronger.

[xCoolHandLukex]

You only need to use a drop of Loctite. Gooping it on will actually make it less effective. You should also brakleen off the thread area and ensure its perfectly clean. Pickout any old Loctite and let it set for 24hrs before using it. My slash, Rustler, scx10s all use them. I spray dry graphite lubricant on tem as well every few runs helps a lot to keep them running smooth. If its still coming loose use some Loctite 640 sleee retainer. It will be in there forever. But really if your threads are clean and undamaged they should hold fine with Red Loctite.

[buggynutt]

I have been running mip's for 2 years with no problem. I used blue loctight and waited about 12hrs to drive it. Running them on my ax-10, and wrekluse.

[evan03]

Junfacs any better. I'm looking to buy in the next week or so.

[Trubble]

I've never used the JunFacs, so I can't speak for the materials and durability. Pretty much the only reason I went with them was that I could find info on the lengths of shafts I needed. Had I been able to find out what lengths of MIPs to use, I'da probably bought them instead.

Only thing I've seen so far that I'm not thrilled with is that the D shaped hole in the female end of the drive shafts seem to be only 1/4"-3/16" deep. I've never seen/heard of anyone ever tearing the cap (if you will) off of the rest of the hollow tube, so I'd have to believe it'll be fine. Not saying it's at all insufficient, I just thought that was machined a lot deeper in there, that's all. And I don't know, the MIPs may be very similar, I've never seen one.

[Jslick]

I have beat the snot out of my MIP's with no complaints from them for two hard seasons and many scale runs. I even took some piano wire and used it to replace the pins when they were looking a little worn.

[badger]

This thread does not deserve to be in General Crawlers, moved to Newbie General.

BTW, I hate kids.

[street.terror]

How did it take you a week to get them together and on the truck? Have you ever used a hex driver before? I built and installed mine in 20 minutes.