RCCrawler Forums

lngboardr69 · 01-29-2007, 07:46 PM

Hey,

I recently came across RC Rock Crawling while visiting my LHS. I have had my share of RC cars (T-Maxx, HPI Rally, etc.) but need something new. I'd really like to begin rock crawling, but I don't know where to start? I have been reading through forums the past couple of days and decided that i want to get an TLT-1. Now, here is where I need help. I read the ORCRC Article: How to build a TLT crawler, and I have read about all the different types of conversion kits (Junfac Tracer, SW2, etc.) and don't know which direction to take. Am i better off building a custom model, or using a kit. Once I'm guided in a direction I will need some more help, but that would be a good start.
-Thanks

Reflection · 01-30-2007, 01:33 AM

IMHO,your going with a good start. I'd get a SW2 and build from that with the TLT axles. Most guys will run Pede trans,as you've probly read. You'll also see guys run stealth trannies and I'm sure theres more. Allot of guys run Axiom lathe motors or if you want horsepower get a Mamba Max ESC and an outrunner from Holmes Hobbies. IMHO,the Mamba Max is theee best ESC out for crawling. The drag brake feature is priceless and it'll run brushed or brushless. Servo's,some get by with 645's but IMHO,they are a bit weak. A 200 oz. servo is the minimum for a crawler I think,even 2.2's. It's hard to control the truck if you can't turn

I'd highly recommend Airtronics 359's. I run them on my super and am happy with them. I've also got a 200 oz. servo in my 2.2 I'm building. There are stronger ones out there but allot of them require EPA's on your radio.

mr.maxx · 01-30-2007, 06:14 AM

^^^ That is great advice!!

I have 645's on my clod and I think they work great for the price. I also picked up some TP 995MG servos which are dirt cheap and they are incredible as well. If you have the cash go all out, it is cheaper than constantly upgrading...

Also, I might suggest that you give the XRC chassis a peek...

lngboardr69 · 01-30-2007, 05:12 PM

Thanks for the help! I put together a list of parts I need for the build. If you could think of any other parts, please let me know. I'm hoping to get building soon, I just need to round up the parts. Thanks again.
TLT-1 Rock Crawler Parts

Required Parts

• Tamiya TLT-1 "Rock Buster” Kit
• Traxxas Stampede Transmission
• (4) HPI 2.2" Wheels
• Traxxas Jato Driveshafts (how many?)
• (4) 2.2" Proline Masher or Moab tires
• SW2 Chassis
• (2) Traxxas steel output yokes
• 6/32 allthread (threaded rod)
• 3/16 aluminum tube
• Parma Universal Body Mounts
• Traxxas ball ends (Part #1942)
• (4) Maxx Shocks
• Assorted screws & lock nuts

Possible Parts

• Velcro
• Brake line
• ½” Nylon Spacers
• ¼” Nylon Spacers

Owned Parts

• Fuel Tubing
• JB Weld
• Motor and pinion gear
• ESC (speed controller)
• Servo’s
• Radio
* Battery

littlenick · 01-30-2007, 05:31 PM

Here is BENDER's build up:
Shaggin' Wagon.......Stage 2 Build-up
Also don't get the Jato drive shafts they are not that easy to mount up, I would get the Maxx shafts and here is to mount them:
Shaggin' Wagon................The Begining of Stage 2

Norcal crawler · 01-30-2007, 05:39 PM

I agree don't get the jato's i did and just couldn't get them to work. I ended up just buying pede ones. I was just like you a couple weeks back and learned a lot. If you want to see what im doing right now then it is in tlt's and sw2 jeep. You might have some of the same questions i did.

lngboardr69 · 01-30-2007, 05:44 PM

Thanks for the build up link. Does it make a difference whether I use the Traxxas steel output yokes or the plastic ones?

littlenick · 01-30-2007, 05:48 PM

I would start with the plastic yokes then if they break then you can upgrade, but I have the plastic yokes and there still holding up.

lngboardr69 · 01-30-2007, 07:39 PM

Alright, I think I have got my part list all sorted out. Let me know if there is anything I'm missing. And another thing, Is it a good idea to get the SW2 w/ link mounts or would I be fine fabing some. It just seems a big jump from $65-$95 just for the links. Or is there a cheaper chassis that uses the same parts?

Required Parts

• Tamiya TLT-1 "Rock Buster” Kit - $70
• Traxxas Stampede Transmission - $50
• (4) HPI 2.2" Wheels - $15
• Traxxas T-Maxx 2.5 Driveshafts - $10 each
• (4) 2.2" Proline Masher or Moab tires - $30
• SW2 Chassis w/ Link Mounts - $95
• Traxxass Turnbuckles 105mm - $6 a pair
• (2) Traxxas steel output yokes - $18
• Parma Universal Body Mounts
• (4) Maxx Shocks - $5
• 3/16 aluminum tube
• Assorted screws & lock nuts

Owned Parts

• Motor and pinion gear
• ESC (speed controller)
• Servo’s
• Radio
• Battery

John Deere · 01-30-2007, 10:13 PM

Go to www.RCPcrawlers.com. Once your there click on the tab to the left hand side of the screen that says Chassis. Look around there. Personally I use the J2-TT and its nice. There are some of his here on this site that have threads about them. Look in the TLT thread area. Hope this helps, but for the most part your off to a great start.

lngboardr69 · 01-30-2007, 10:36 PM

I've got a tough choice to make now. Thanks for the help! Would I have to lengthen the driveshafts with the J2-TT chassis or will the T-Maxx 2.5 driveshafts work?

Erin · 01-31-2007, 05:31 AM

I'm curious as to why people have had problems with the Jato shafts. I just mounted mine up and it seemed pretty straight forward. Just wondering, I'm sure either solution works.

Big Mike · 01-31-2007, 07:00 AM

I'm still using dogbones myself. I just make them to whatever length I need w/ 3/16" aluminum tubing and stock or HPI dogbones cut in half. I have the perfect size drill bit to bore about a 1/8" or so of pilot hole, then I press-fit them by heating the aluminum so it expands and pressing them together in a vise. Once they cool off they lock together pretty much permanently. Take them to the grinder and taper the aluminum down to meet the steel dogbone for smooth operation.
You can run a stock chassis, but the transmission has it's limits due to the belt drive. I added a belt tensioner to mine. It only slips now when I really bind things up, so it may save a part or two occaisionally.
Don't skimp on your servos and esc. Cheap units that work for regular applications won't cut it for serious crawling. You need servos with a reasonable amount of torque, and an esc that won't cut power to the motor when you load it up. Spend a little more up front now, cause you'll just end up spending it later once you realize the limitations of weak servos or a "race" type esc. You can get up and running with stuff you have laying around from older cars/trucks, but once you get your chassis to work half decent you'll see what I mean.
Doing a search for either "high-torque servos" or "esc" in the electronics page will give you all the info you need, since all these guys here have already discussed both at great length I won't get into it here...

Reflection · 01-31-2007, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

I'm curious as to why people have had problems with the Jato shafts. I just mounted mine up and it seemed pretty straight forward. Just wondering, I'm sure either solution works.

I'm also curious. Whats so hard about fitting the Jato's?

littlenick · 01-31-2007, 02:14 PM

The Jato shafts are not that hard to mount up, just the Maxx shafts all you have to do is just grind a bit away and then mount it up, also there alot stronger.

Norcal crawler · 01-31-2007, 03:16 PM

I don't think that the steel yokes will work with the maxx driveshafts. Unless they are too the maxx but i didn't even know they made them.

01-30-2007, 06:14 AM	#3
mr.maxx Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Shillington Posts: 462	^^^ That is great advice!! I have 645's on my clod and I think they work great for the price. I also picked up some TP 995MG servos which are dirt cheap and they are incredible as well. If you have the cash go all out, it is cheaper than constantly upgrading... Also, I might suggest that you give the XRC chassis a peek... Attached Images

01-29-2007, 07:46 PM	#1
lngboardr69 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Corvallis Posts: 15	Where to start? TLT-Build Hey, I recently came across RC Rock Crawling while visiting my LHS. I have had my share of RC cars (T-Maxx, HPI Rally, etc.) but need something new. I'd really like to begin rock crawling, but I don't know where to start? I have been reading through forums the past couple of days and decided that i want to get an TLT-1. Now, here is where I need help. I read the ORCRC Article: How to build a TLT crawler, and I have read about all the different types of conversion kits (Junfac Tracer, SW2, etc.) and don't know which direction to take. Am i better off building a custom model, or using a kit. Once I'm guided in a direction I will need some more help, but that would be a good start. -Thanks Last edited by lngboardr69; 01-29-2007 at 11:04 PM.

01-30-2007, 01:33 AM	#2
Reflection TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee Posts: 10,855	IMHO,your going with a good start. I'd get a SW2 and build from that with the TLT axles. Most guys will run Pede trans,as you've probly read. You'll also see guys run stealth trannies and I'm sure theres more. Allot of guys run Axiom lathe motors or if you want horsepower get a Mamba Max ESC and an outrunner from Holmes Hobbies. IMHO,the Mamba Max is theee best ESC out for crawling. The drag brake feature is priceless and it'll run brushed or brushless. Servo's,some get by with 645's but IMHO,they are a bit weak. A 200 oz. servo is the minimum for a crawler I think,even 2.2's. It's hard to control the truck if you can't turn I'd highly recommend Airtronics 359's. I run them on my super and am happy with them. I've also got a 200 oz. servo in my 2.2 I'm building. There are stronger ones out there but allot of them require EPA's on your radio.

01-30-2007, 05:12 PM	#4
lngboardr69 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Corvallis Posts: 15	Thanks for the help! I put together a list of parts I need for the build. If you could think of any other parts, please let me know. I'm hoping to get building soon, I just need to round up the parts. Thanks again. TLT-1 Rock Crawler Parts Required Parts • Tamiya TLT-1 "Rock Buster” Kit • Traxxas Stampede Transmission • (4) HPI 2.2" Wheels • Traxxas Jato Driveshafts (how many?) • (4) 2.2" Proline Masher or Moab tires • SW2 Chassis • (2) Traxxas steel output yokes • 6/32 allthread (threaded rod) • 3/16 aluminum tube • Parma Universal Body Mounts • Traxxas ball ends (Part #1942) • (4) Maxx Shocks • Assorted screws & lock nuts Possible Parts • Velcro • Brake line • ½” Nylon Spacers • ¼” Nylon Spacers Owned Parts • Fuel Tubing • JB Weld • Motor and pinion gear • ESC (speed controller) • Servo’s • Radio * Battery

01-30-2007, 05:31 PM	#5
littlenick Newbie Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 38	Here is BENDER's build up: Shaggin' Wagon.......Stage 2 Build-up Also don't get the Jato drive shafts they are not that easy to mount up, I would get the Maxx shafts and here is to mount them: Shaggin' Wagon................The Begining of Stage 2

01-30-2007, 05:39 PM	#6
Norcal crawler RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: California Posts: 1,361	I agree don't get the jato's i did and just couldn't get them to work. I ended up just buying pede ones. I was just like you a couple weeks back and learned a lot. If you want to see what im doing right now then it is in tlt's and sw2 jeep. You might have some of the same questions i did.

01-30-2007, 05:44 PM	#7
lngboardr69 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Corvallis Posts: 15	Thanks for the build up link. Does it make a difference whether I use the Traxxas steel output yokes or the plastic ones?

01-30-2007, 05:48 PM	#8
littlenick Newbie Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 38	I would start with the plastic yokes then if they break then you can upgrade, but I have the plastic yokes and there still holding up.

01-30-2007, 07:39 PM	#9
lngboardr69 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Corvallis Posts: 15	Alright, I think I have got my part list all sorted out. Let me know if there is anything I'm missing. And another thing, Is it a good idea to get the SW2 w/ link mounts or would I be fine fabing some. It just seems a big jump from $65-$95 just for the links. Or is there a cheaper chassis that uses the same parts? Required Parts • Tamiya TLT-1 "Rock Buster” Kit - $70 • Traxxas Stampede Transmission - $50 • (4) HPI 2.2" Wheels - $15 • Traxxas T-Maxx 2.5 Driveshafts - $10 each • (4) 2.2" Proline Masher or Moab tires - $30 • SW2 Chassis w/ Link Mounts - $95 • Traxxass Turnbuckles 105mm - $6 a pair • (2) Traxxas steel output yokes - $18 • Parma Universal Body Mounts • (4) Maxx Shocks - $5 • 3/16 aluminum tube • Assorted screws & lock nuts Owned Parts • Motor and pinion gear • ESC (speed controller) • Servo’s • Radio • Battery

01-30-2007, 10:13 PM	#10
John Deere Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Alabama Posts: 564	Go to www.RCPcrawlers.com. Once your there click on the tab to the left hand side of the screen that says Chassis. Look around there. Personally I use the J2-TT and its nice. There are some of his here on this site that have threads about them. Look in the TLT thread area. Hope this helps, but for the most part your off to a great start.

01-30-2007, 10:36 PM	#11
lngboardr69 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Corvallis Posts: 15	I've got a tough choice to make now. Thanks for the help! Would I have to lengthen the driveshafts with the J2-TT chassis or will the T-Maxx 2.5 driveshafts work?

Sponsored Links

01-31-2007, 05:31 AM	#12
Erin I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Goin broke losing weight..... Posts: 2,262	I'm curious as to why people have had problems with the Jato shafts. I just mounted mine up and it seemed pretty straight forward. Just wondering, I'm sure either solution works.

01-31-2007, 07:00 AM	#13
Big Mike I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV Posts: 2,781	I'm still using dogbones myself. I just make them to whatever length I need w/ 3/16" aluminum tubing and stock or HPI dogbones cut in half. I have the perfect size drill bit to bore about a 1/8" or so of pilot hole, then I press-fit them by heating the aluminum so it expands and pressing them together in a vise. Once they cool off they lock together pretty much permanently. Take them to the grinder and taper the aluminum down to meet the steel dogbone for smooth operation. You can run a stock chassis, but the transmission has it's limits due to the belt drive. I added a belt tensioner to mine. It only slips now when I really bind things up, so it may save a part or two occaisionally. Don't skimp on your servos and esc. Cheap units that work for regular applications won't cut it for serious crawling. You need servos with a reasonable amount of torque, and an esc that won't cut power to the motor when you load it up. Spend a little more up front now, cause you'll just end up spending it later once you realize the limitations of weak servos or a "race" type esc. You can get up and running with stuff you have laying around from older cars/trucks, but once you get your chassis to work half decent you'll see what I mean. Doing a search for either "high-torque servos" or "esc" in the electronics page will give you all the info you need, since all these guys here have already discussed both at great length I won't get into it here...

01-31-2007, 02:14 PM	#15
littlenick Newbie Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 38	The Jato shafts are not that hard to mount up, just the Maxx shafts all you have to do is just grind a bit away and then mount it up, also there alot stronger.

01-31-2007, 03:16 PM	#16
Norcal crawler RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: California Posts: 1,361	I don't think that the steel yokes will work with the maxx driveshafts. Unless they are too the maxx but i didn't even know they made them.

RCCrawler Forums

Thread: Where to start?