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Old 11-26-2017, 10:09 PM   #1
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Default New build new questions

This is my first crawler, first scratch build. Has anyone ever had any dealings with Xtra speed axle housings? Found them on Fleabay for $20 each, are they a waste of $20 or will they do for stock replacements (since I don't have stockers to replace) Also never had a crawler before so do I want lockers (spools front/rear) or do I need a locker up front and an open diff out back (or visa versa).
Thanks for any help, things sure have changed since I built my ESP chassis monster truck
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Old 11-28-2017, 05:32 PM   #2
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Default Re: New build new questions

You would better buy New Original Axial axles, save your time and money https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axial-Updat....c100011.m1850

Yes, you would need spool, bevel and ring gears, axles drive shaft, bearing, CVD etc...

Last edited by Teng; 11-28-2017 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 11-28-2017, 06:58 PM   #3
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Default Re: New build new questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
This is my first crawler, first scratch build. Has anyone ever had any dealings with Xtra speed axle housings? Found them on Fleabay for $20 each, are they a waste of $20 or will they do for stock replacements (since I don't have stockers to replace) Also never had a crawler before so do I want lockers (spools front/rear) or do I need a locker up front and an open diff out back (or visa versa).
Thanks for any help, things sure have changed since I built my ESP chassis monster truck
I'm a bit confused when you say you "dont have stockers to replace", you're missing the axles or not?
When I read new build I just assume you've got a new kit.

The Wraith comes locked in front and rear, generally if you're crawling you want it fully locked, anyway I dont think they even make an open diff for these.

I don't know that I'd recommend ditching the stock axle housings yet. I did when my LHS recommended it for going brushless and regret it. The main things in need of attention with the axles are the lockouts in the rear, they mount with 2 tiny screw which thread into the axle housing, these never stay tight and are usually lost pretty quickly. VP and likely others make a nicer "clamping" style lockout that always stays tight, look here. The front axles have the same issue where the C-hubs mount, VP has another pricey solution for the C-hubs.
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:45 PM   #4
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Default Re: New build new questions

I only have a frame, looked at a lot of threads and a lot of pictures, figured I'd probably replace this, replace that and end up with just the original frame with a wheelbarrow full of trick bits replacing everything else so I just found a frame cheap and I'm starting there(my ESP Clod only has the axle housings remaining).
They do show an open diff gear set (probably off another model using the same internals) and RC4WD offers an open diff gear set, not knowing anything about crawlers I didn't know if I needed an open diff or a spool type, figuring this thing wasn't going to be seeing any high speed runs I was assuming spool was the way to go but I figured I should check in with the experts.
Thanks for the help, learning something new every day
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:49 PM   #5
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Default Re: New build new questions

If you don't have any axles at all, best bet is either the Dlux Fab axles - which are stock but modified for a larger bearing :

Dlux Fab

or for the rear only, the SSD HD D60 centered-pumpkin - which also uses the larger bearing and comes with the centered axles :

SSD RC HD D60 Centered Rear Axle for Wraith SMT10 Yeti

Save your money for lockers, front universals, steering knuckles, c-hubs, lockouts, steering links, servo horn, servo mount, and if you want 'em - metal diff housing covers and beef tubes.... (whew!)

Plastic axle housings and pumpkins slide much better over obstacles. Save the metal for where the strength is needed.
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Old 11-28-2017, 08:09 PM   #6
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Default Re: New build new questions

That seems like pretty solid advice, I can see where a crawler would probably be dragging bits on a pretty regular basis. I really like that centered rear axle.
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:29 AM   #7
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Default Re: New build new questions

For ar60 housings, either stock or dlux Fab you need to run beef tubes. Either run the real deal from beeftubes.com or the cheaper knockoffs. They give weight down low, reinforce the axel tubes and give you something solid to screw lockouts and chubs to.
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:42 AM   #8
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Default Re: New build new questions

Also good to know, I'll pick up a set when I make the "final" decision on axle housings

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Old 11-29-2017, 02:04 PM   #9
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Default Re: New build new questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
This is my first crawler, first scratch build. Has anyone ever had any dealings with Xtra speed axle housings? Found them on Fleabay for $20 each, are they a waste of $20 or will they do for stock replacements (since I don't have stockers to replace) Also never had a crawler before so do I want lockers (spools front/rear) or do I need a locker up front and an open diff out back (or visa versa).
Thanks for any help, things sure have changed since I built my ESP chassis monster truck
I did a "budget" re-build project on my old AX-10. I picked up the Xtra Speed axle housings and found them to be just fine. Plus, they were a bit heavier than my old Axial AR60 housings even with Beef Tubes. Basically, I was sick and tired of the C-hubs and lockouts constantly coming loose on the Axial plastic AR60's. Even with the Beef Tubes to thread in to, the bolt length has gotta be just right to grab some of the Beef Tube, and not so long to interfere with the axle. Even after grinding down some bolts to exact lengths and using copious amounts of locktite, they would still loosen.

I've been running the AX10 with the metal Xtra speed housings for several weeks now and have not had to re-tighten or snug C-hubs or lockouts since. For the money, the Xtra speed housings are a good value. Just my 2 pennies.
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Old 11-29-2017, 03:47 PM   #10
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Default Re: New build new questions

I have the boom racing axle housings the same as th3 xtra peed there awsome they slide over rocks better than the aluminum and are stronger than the plastic and realy plant the rig on the rocks but there are heavy another + the gears cant deflect like they do on the plastic housings if you plan on running big power metal axles are a must if your gona run a 540 or 550 sized can motor you should be ok with plastic and beef tubes i did the big bearing mod on my rear it was easy enuff i run a thrust bearing up front and its working well but they wouldent work in the rear for some reason the machining was a bit off hence the big bearing mod instead they may take a bit of love to get everything to fit right but for the price those axlels are a great deal just be prepared to do the fit and finnish your self

Last edited by ferp420; 11-29-2017 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 11-30-2017, 05:38 AM   #11
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Default Re: New build new questions

Here is a link to my review of the xtra speed axles for the SCX10. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redca...ml#post5771402
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Old 11-30-2017, 08:12 AM   #12
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Default Re: New build new questions

Well they seem to be more trouble than they're worth but for the price I ordered a pair to look at. I really like it when stuff just bolts together like it's supposed to, when I start "massaging" bits to get them to fit is when I start breaking things

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Old 11-30-2017, 08:28 AM   #13
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Default Re: New build new questions

I have the ar60 versions and the scx10 versions well worth the money
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Old 11-30-2017, 11:53 AM   #14
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Default Re: New build new questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by durok View Post
If you don't have any axles at all, best bet is either the Dlux Fab axles - which are stock but modified for a larger bearing :

Dlux Fab

or for the rear only, the SSD HD D60 centered-pumpkin - which also uses the larger bearing and comes with the centered axles :

SSD RC HD D60 Centered Rear Axle for Wraith SMT10 Yeti

Save your money for lockers, front universals, steering knuckles, c-hubs, lockouts, steering links, servo horn, servo mount, and if you want 'em - metal diff housing covers and beef tubes.... (whew!)

Plastic axle housings and pumpkins slide much better over obstacles. Save the metal for where the strength is needed.
This is exceptional advice here. Dlux stock housings with bearing mod is the way to go. His knuckles are also amazing. He sells nearly indestructible axles as well. Great stuff. Rear axles can be locked up OT shafts. I like the incision lockers for the ar60s due to weight.

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Old 12-01-2017, 12:11 PM   #15
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Default Re: New build new questions

Also, what's the consensus on shocks for the Wraith chassis, I've been looking at the King shocks because they have that "real shock" look, I'm in between those and the Gmade XD shocks. Anyone have an opinion?

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Old 12-23-2017, 03:50 PM   #16
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Default Re: New build new questions

Well here's where I started;

Picked up a frame off Fleabay


Replaced all these bits with aluminum bits (because I'm a sucker for billet)


Added some of these


And pieced all this together since I started with none of it
DLux front housing with SSD Chubs and STRC servo mount, SSD centered rear housing, GPM upper and lower arms attached to VP arm/shock mounts all on a O.E. Axial skid
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Old 12-23-2017, 03:52 PM   #17
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Default Re: New build new questions

Still undecided on shocks but I'm leaning towards the GMade reservoir shocks
Also up in the air as to axle ratio, any opinions?
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Old 12-24-2017, 10:14 AM   #18
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Default Re: New build new questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
Still undecided on shocks but I'm leaning towards the GMade reservoir shocks
Also up in the air as to axle ratio, any opinions?
Ud (lowest ratio) gears in rear, and hd, or Od gears up front. Depends on how much trail running and rock crawling you plan on doing.
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Old 12-24-2017, 11:47 AM   #19
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Default Re: New build new questions

I imagine it's going to be more of a general "basher" than anything, some rocks, some trails and river beds
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